performance rebuil
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performance rebuil
i am planning on building a 6.9 this winter to replace my 7.3 factory turbo.i plan on studding the heads using coated pistons,doing a little work on my intake,upgrading my turbo and exaust,installing a intercooler,a new ip, custom ram air. my question is what else can u guys think of to do to this thing to really make a diffrance i beleave this engine is capable of alot more than people give it credit for and would like to prove it so eny help would be a big help.
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From: KY
I think I would use the factory turbo block. It isn't the same critter as the regular 7.3 block. I know the 6.9 blocks are good and better then the regular 7.3 blocks.
The turbo block will end in "C3" not "C1".
Check engine-builder.com. They talk about it some.
The turbo block will end in "C3" not "C1".
Check engine-builder.com. They talk about it some.
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Melling sells a slightly bigger cam in a cam and lifter kit with a lift of .406/.405. It's pretty pricy, though ($434.69 thru Summit Racing). I'm planning on using one in my 7.3. Speed-pro and Hypertech both sell hypereutectic pistons, but the speed-pro's are cheaper (once again, Summit). If you already have a 7.3 IDIT, forget the 6.9. Like catfish said, the IDIT had a better block from the factory, made just for turbo applications. Plus you have better valves and other internals to begin with. Make sure you get the correct turbo head gaskets, regular 6.9/7.3 head gaskets don't like turbos.
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I was going to do the same as you are describing, but the cost was just way too high to justify it.
If you can do a lot of the work your self, your miles ahead!
One of the interesting things I came across while researching the project, was a machinest who did hundreds of IDI rebuilds. He sleeved the 7.3 to 6.9 specs and swears he never had one come back!
Now we all know Dave S's experience with sleeved motors but I just thought you might want to know of other options....in fact, this machinest couldn't find a 7.3 block and had to use a 6.9 for his own project, but wishes he had a 7.3!
You also won't need APR head studs with the 7.3 but could go with ceramic piston or hyper-witchmacallic pistons?
Just a thought.
If you can do a lot of the work your self, your miles ahead!
One of the interesting things I came across while researching the project, was a machinest who did hundreds of IDI rebuilds. He sleeved the 7.3 to 6.9 specs and swears he never had one come back!
Now we all know Dave S's experience with sleeved motors but I just thought you might want to know of other options....in fact, this machinest couldn't find a 7.3 block and had to use a 6.9 for his own project, but wishes he had a 7.3!
You also won't need APR head studs with the 7.3 but could go with ceramic piston or hyper-witchmacallic pistons?
Just a thought.
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From: Coal Region
Why wont one need head studs? there is a thread on erlburners (i think) about that very subject and how no one really makes them for the 7.3...
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
If you plan on high boost numbers, you need head studs on a 7.3 just like you do on a 6.9.
Also you need to give serious consideration to milling the pistons down to lower the compression ratio on either motor.
DPS is the only source for 7.3 head studs that I know of.
When you see the cost, don't fall off your chair.
Biggest difference in the 7.3 turbo motor was larger wrist pins.
All that means is more rotating weight.
Also you need to give serious consideration to milling the pistons down to lower the compression ratio on either motor.
DPS is the only source for 7.3 head studs that I know of.
When you see the cost, don't fall off your chair.
Biggest difference in the 7.3 turbo motor was larger wrist pins.
All that means is more rotating weight.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Coal Region
Heh, if i even do decide to go boost crazy i was going to use head studs and lower the CR to around 20:1...maybe even 18:1 and shoot for 20 and 40 psi respectivly. but, that probaly wont happen.
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From: Powell River B.C.
Catfish101- Is the casting number for the engine the one on the top drivers side of the intake mainfold, if so mine ends in "C4". from my signature you will see that this is a mid 93 engine non turbo. Be nice to know if this is indead a heavy cast block that would allow for over sizing on a rebuild if necessary, rather than sleaving. Do you have a more complete link to the engine-builder site that has this info, I couldn't seem to locate it. Thanks
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From: KY
Originally Posted by KJLYPW
Catfish101- Is the casting number for the engine the one on the top drivers side of the intake mainfold, if so mine ends in "C4". from my signature you will see that this is a mid 93 engine non turbo. Be nice to know if this is indead a heavy cast block that would allow for over sizing on a rebuild if necessary, rather than sleaving. Do you have a more complete link to the engine-builder site that has this info, I couldn't seem to locate it. Thanks
This web sight talked about some of the things I mention. http://www.engine-builder.com/ar/Ford7.3L.pdf
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From: Powell River B.C.
I found my block s/n, which is definately in the C3 group of s/n's, so it would seem that the heaver castings were not all used on the turbo motor after all. I would be very interested in knowing if these also included heavier cyclinder walls, less suceptable to cavitation blow out, and a more rebuildable as well!! Thanks for the link to the artical.
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what about turbos i seen a t3-t4 hybrid would it spool up faster and make more boost or is it a waste of money.youu guys have given me alot of good info i hope this engine will turn out having imprisive numbers.whats the must tork and horsepower you guys have herd of from a idi.