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should i do this

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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 02:26 AM
  #1  
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blueranger103
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should i do this

ive been told that it would be the same amount of money to change my R-12 in my air conditioning system to the the new kind in a conversion kit do yall have any suggestions as to what i should do? does the conversion work or is it going to cause more problems?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 04:34 AM
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If your AC work good no reason to change R12, just add some.... BTW! it is not proved yet, that R12 is harmful for ozone.... Just suggestions and unproved versions....
 
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 07:39 AM
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You cannot purchase R12 in the USA, and probably the majority of the rest of the world because of the Montreal Accords, I think. The Ozone Hole over Antarctica re-appears every winter (north hemisphere) as it is summer in the southern and they get more sun. DUh.
The conversion to R134 is not really cheap to do correctly. All the old refrigerant should be collected. The accumulator needs to be replaced, the system flushed of as much mineral oil as possible. Some need the orifice tube size changed. Then new compatible oil, new comatible dessicant inside the accumulator, and pull a vacuum.
New adapter fittings and then you can put in the refrigerant.
I will generally not be as cold as the R12. But if you use a cheap 'throw it in kit' you will end up paying for a decent job in the long run.
tom
 
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 02:46 PM
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blueranger103
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but can i still get r-12 in the states i want cold ac i live in texas c'mon its damn hot. oh and my ac does not work right now when the switch is on max ac it doesnt blow for anything. when its on panel it blows hard but no cold air just outside temp. so i think im out of r12 and it maybe a switch problem or my blower motor idk which it is? is it true that my compressor clutch will not catch if there is no pressure in the system? it just flickers on and off.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 06:19 PM
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You cannot purchase R-12 and do it yourself. However, you can get the system recharged with R-12 by a "certified" A/C service technician. And yes, it will cost you a lot more than it would if it were R-134a.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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yeah you have to be certified to purchase r12. the conversion kit to 134a is $40.00 at your local parts store. all you have to do is have the system evacuated of the r12 and then charge it.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 01:02 AM
  #7  
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what should i do about the switch/b motor problem have any suggestions?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 07:45 AM
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I mis-stated the deal on R12. You can purchase it if EPA 608/609 certified.
If you are close to the border, you can get R12 installed in Mexico for a lower price..
The max setting is supposed to move a flap to block outside air and re-circulate inside air. It could be the switch, or the motor that moves the flap. Fords had a bit of a problem with some of their motors/sensors and the flap pins that lead to a $hundreds cost to repair. There are fixes posted here that allow less expensive repair without needing to drop the dashboard.
Check the control panel mode switch before tearing into under-dash repairs...
tom
 
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 09:43 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by big 390
yeah you have to be certified to purchase r12. the conversion kit to 134a is $40.00 at your local parts store. all you have to do is have the system evacuated of the r12 and then charge it.
This is not true. Yes the part about the kits availability is true, and where you can get it, but that is not all it takes. The dryer inside the accumulator is not compatible with R-134a. The oil in R-134a will draw out any moisture the old desiccant may have in it. Thats the purpose of a dryer. The moisture then reacts with R-134a to form an acid that will damage to AC system. While this is the more extreme scenario, and your old dryer may not have any moisture in it at all, if this horrible scenario does happen, you will be looking at replacing the ENTIRE ac system, which costs a whole lot more than an accumulator. Also if you don't replace the orifice tube with one made for R-134a your cooling will be less efficient than it could be , and the R-134a is already less efficient than R-12 anyway. Trust me, you want this done right. It is not worth messing around with, the parts are less expensive than a compressor, and certainly less expensive than an entire AC system.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 01:32 PM
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just dump r134 into it on top of the r12! Buy the cans without oil in them. If you are just low it shouldn't be too much of a difference in temp. The reason they say not to mix is because of recovery units only have two tanks one for r12 one for r134. You will not be able to go to a shop for service on the system unless you replace all the parts and flush the system. But for a quick cheap fix and if you do it yourself all the time it will not cause any problems. Just look at the cans of ester and pag oil right there it says compatible with all r 12 refrigerants and oils!!! I know everyone is going to flame out on this, But guess what it works!!! It is all myth to get you to spend money.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 01:45 PM
  #11  
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blueranger103
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cause when ever i flip the switch from panel to max ac it makes a low popping sound. and cuts back alot i want to know what that popping noise might be?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 02:08 PM
  #12  
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Is it coming from the motor or inside?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 03:37 PM
  #13  
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I don't see the big todo about converting the system!?! I bought the kit for our 93 T-Bird two years ago and it has worked fine since. I did have to replace the high pressure hose (compressor to the radiator) on her just last week due to two bulges, but it was likely due to the age of the hose (15 years) and not R-134a.

For my humble two cents worth on the subject, it was worth it to me compared to the cost of R-12 and the fact one has to take it to a shop to have it worked on. I'd just as soon find me a garage or a good shade tree, and doing it myself. I did take it in to a certified shop and have the R-12 that "was" in it recovered at no cost. Well worth it imo!
 
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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 12:02 AM
  #14  
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it sounds like its coming from the under dash which i fig out today that it most likely the vent to the outside closing. but would the lack of r12 in the system be the cause of my low air coming from max ac when its on? does it run on pressure?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 12:18 AM
  #15  
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If you decide to just recharge your R-12 Plan on spending 2-3 times the amount that it would cost to do the conversion. The EPA has put such restrictions on R-12 that its very hard for a shop to keep R-12 In Stock. I would suggest the conversion. Its better on the environment. And its also better on the ac system. Go ahead and replace the condenser and the orifus tube while your at it to prevent future problems. Have a mechanic Check your compressor to make sure it is in PERFECT working order before you do the conversion. SOME compressors do not like the conversion. R-134 is less dense then the Brother r-12. Ans some compressors seem to like to leak after the conversion.
 
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