Engine pulling tips
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,777
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
I wouldn't pull on the studs for the carb base if thats what you mean.
Tie something heavy around the exhaust manifolds, use bolts in the opposite back and front holes of the intake flat (block), etc.
The engine weighs 569 lbs without the tranny. I don't have the nerve to pull on 5/16" studs but I'm sure some guys have.
Tie something heavy around the exhaust manifolds, use bolts in the opposite back and front holes of the intake flat (block), etc.
The engine weighs 569 lbs without the tranny. I don't have the nerve to pull on 5/16" studs but I'm sure some guys have.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
Bolts
The intake is off and was thinking about using those holes but now thinking of using the head bolt areas ifI can find some with meat. You would be surprised just how strong bolts are. Grade 8's have 150,000 psi tensile strength. I caclulated 800lbs for my total load. Thats only 200lbs per bolt. Take a look at this calculator and you will see how high the loads are when torquing a bolt down.
http://www.engineersedge.com/calcula...orque_calc.htm
http://www.engineersedge.com/calcula...orque_calc.htm
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,777
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
Ok, with the intake off, I just use a couple of intake bolt holes - one front corner and one rear corner. I've pulled mine that way many times.
If the heads are off that works too, but don't go down too far or you lose your balance point as center of gravity gets higher. Stay in the corner where the meat of the casting is thicker and you'll be fine.
Have fun with it!
If the heads are off that works too, but don't go down too far or you lose your balance point as center of gravity gets higher. Stay in the corner where the meat of the casting is thicker and you'll be fine.
Have fun with it!
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: crowley, tx
Originally Posted by john fin
Here is the starting point. I hope it clears. I have a tilter which is good but I loose the lifting clearance. (see gallery)
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Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 482
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Jack up
I had to jack it up a tad for the outriggers to clear the straight axle. Thats a good idea but it wont work in my case.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,887
Likes: 3,129
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I think it would have been easier to pull the front end sheet metal. There are only eight bolts to pull. It's easier if you have torch to cut the running board bolts, I'd guarantee that they and the fender metal around them are rotted.
While the engine is getting worked on you could work on the front sheet metal.
While the engine is getting worked on you could work on the front sheet metal.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2006
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Opinion
So, what do you guys think of this amount of lift with the tilter attached (see gallery). I dont want to remove the front clip. Its a real mess and I dont want to start a super huge project.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
To pull the engine with the sheet metal in place, you have to have an A-frame or a chain hoist mounted on the ceiling to get the engine high enough to clear. That's why 5 people have told you to remove the sheet metal first. It only works one way with a boom hoist and the sheet metal in place, see 4TL8Ford's description. If you measure the depth of the engine, your chain length, your boom length, and ceiling height, you can easily confirm it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
John Fin
You've asked repeatedly both on the forum and thru PM and E-mail for recommendations. You again recieved the best advice available and again you choose to ignore it.
You are on your own nickel now.
You've asked repeatedly both on the forum and thru PM and E-mail for recommendations. You again recieved the best advice available and again you choose to ignore it.
You are on your own nickel now.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Measure twice, lift once
I just pulled a y block from my 52 F6. Pretty tall truck. I used a tractor loader to pull the engine,no problem pulling it, but bought a hoist to install the replacement. It was the Goodyear brand from Sams (Chinese of course).The y is a pretty huge engine for its displacement. I had to remove the short chain that holds the hook, and fasten the leveler directly to the hoist. It cleared the sheet metal fine. I did have a problem getting the engine far enough back with the bumper on, so I pulled it back out, fastened the chains towards the front, and used a little comealong to keep it level.
I wouldn't want to pull that metal either if I had the choice. I only removed the hood. I did catch a lucky break when I installed the engine. I inadvertently left the PTO for the hoist in gear when I parked it. I just grabbed the PTO shaft to turn it and could keep my fingers out of the pinching areas when lining up the input shaft.
I pulled just the engine. I had a Ford shop manual, and followed it step by step, as I have not pulled an engine before. I did forget to unhook the ground cable (frame to block) that was interesting for a few minutes,lol!
I wouldn't want to pull that metal either if I had the choice. I only removed the hood. I did catch a lucky break when I installed the engine. I inadvertently left the PTO for the hoist in gear when I parked it. I just grabbed the PTO shaft to turn it and could keep my fingers out of the pinching areas when lining up the input shaft.
I pulled just the engine. I had a Ford shop manual, and followed it step by step, as I have not pulled an engine before. I did forget to unhook the ground cable (frame to block) that was interesting for a few minutes,lol!
Last edited by itzaford; Aug 24, 2007 at 03:40 PM.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Great advice guys! I am also pulling my motor/tranny to repair some shoddy motor mounts that broke. I am glad I read this post regarding pulling the front sheet metal. Probably saved me a big headache!!!
Anyone know if the front sheet metal (as a unit) can fit in the bed of an f100? I have everything unbolted and ready to be pulled but I'm kinda tapped for space. My brother is cool enough to let me work in his garage so I hate to take up too much space. Also, do you pull the radiator mount with everything else too?
Thanks guys!
Anyone know if the front sheet metal (as a unit) can fit in the bed of an f100? I have everything unbolted and ready to be pulled but I'm kinda tapped for space. My brother is cool enough to let me work in his garage so I hate to take up too much space. Also, do you pull the radiator mount with everything else too?
Thanks guys!