I wouldn't pull on the studs for the carb base if thats what you mean.

Tie something heavy around the exhaust manifolds, use bolts in the opposite back and front holes of the intake flat (block), etc.

The engine weighs 569 lbs without the tranny. I don't have the nerve to pull on 5/16" studs but I'm sure some guys have.

 

The intake is off and was thinking about using those holes but now thinking of using the head bolt areas ifI can find some with meat. You would be surprised just how strong bolts are. Grade 8's have 150,000 psi tensile strength. I caclulated 800lbs for my total load. Thats only 200lbs per bolt. Take a look at this calculator and you will see how high the loads are when torquing a bolt down.

http://www.engineersedge.com/calcula...orque_calc.htm

 

Ok, with the intake off, I just use a couple of intake bolt holes - one front corner and one rear corner. I've pulled mine that way many times.

If the heads are off that works too, but don't go down too far or you lose your balance point as center of gravity gets higher. Stay in the corner where the meat of the casting is thicker and you'll be fine.

Have fun with it!

 

Here is the starting point. I hope it clears. I have a tilter which is good but I loose the lifting clearance. (see gallery)

 

are the front wheels still on, i would highly recomend using the leveler so you can swing it in there

 

Yes the wheels are on and I will try to use the leveler but it really kills my lift height.

 

if you pull the wheels off and set on blocks just high enough to get you hoist under it will help alot, and with the leveler you can "hurdle" the grill panel

 

I had to jack it up a tad for the outriggers to clear the straight axle. Thats a good idea but it wont work in my case.

 

I think it would have been easier to pull the front end sheet metal. There are only eight bolts to pull. It's easier if you have torch to cut the running board bolts, I'd guarantee that they and the fender metal around them are rotted.

While the engine is getting worked on you could work on the front sheet metal.

 

So, what do you guys think of this amount of lift with the tilter attached (see gallery). I dont want to remove the front clip. Its a real mess and I dont want to start a super huge project.

 

damn that is a little hoist, but doesnt look to bad, you will have to tilt it the other way first, put the tranny over the grill, then crank it back like you have it now. have fun

 

To pull the engine with the sheet metal in place, you have to have an A-frame or a chain hoist mounted on the ceiling to get the engine high enough to clear. That's why 5 people have told you to remove the sheet metal first. It only works one way with a boom hoist and the sheet metal in place, see 4TL8Ford's description. If you measure the depth of the engine, your chain length, your boom length, and ceiling height, you can easily confirm it.

 

John Fin
You've asked repeatedly both on the forum and thru PM and E-mail for recommendations. You again recieved the best advice available and again you choose to ignore it.

You are on your own nickel now.

 

I just pulled a y block from my 52 F6. Pretty tall truck. I used a tractor loader to pull the engine,no problem pulling it, but bought a hoist to install the replacement. It was the Goodyear brand from Sams (Chinese of course).The y is a pretty huge engine for its displacement. I had to remove the short chain that holds the hook, and fasten the leveler directly to the hoist. It cleared the sheet metal fine. I did have a problem getting the engine far enough back with the bumper on, so I pulled it back out, fastened the chains towards the front, and used a little comealong to keep it level.

I wouldn't want to pull that metal either if I had the choice. I only removed the hood. I did catch a lucky break when I installed the engine. I inadvertently left the PTO for the hoist in gear when I parked it. I just grabbed the PTO shaft to turn it and could keep my fingers out of the pinching areas when lining up the input shaft.

I pulled just the engine. I had a Ford shop manual, and followed it step by step, as I have not pulled an engine before. I did forget to unhook the ground cable (frame to block) that was interesting for a few minutes,lol!

 

Great advice guys! I am also pulling my motor/tranny to repair some shoddy motor mounts that broke. I am glad I read this post regarding pulling the front sheet metal. Probably saved me a big headache!!!

Anyone know if the front sheet metal (as a unit) can fit in the bed of an f100? I have everything unbolted and ready to be pulled but I'm kinda tapped for space. My brother is cool enough to let me work in his garage so I hate to take up too much space. Also, do you pull the radiator mount with everything else too?

Thanks guys!