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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Banks Transcommand or The Baumannator Controller

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Old Aug 21, 2007 | 10:24 PM
  #16  
c00nhunterjoe's Avatar
c00nhunterjoe
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From: Belair md
any increase in pressure is hard on all components, here watch the videos and you decide if my shift kit works, i have over 220k on the truck and that is how it shifts, i tow alot and abuse the truck daily, it has 35's on it and gets buried in the mud alot too, still running the stock trans cooler snd no problems
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...kit-video.html
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 10:51 AM
  #17  
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I was trying to be nice in my replies to this. I dont like the transcommand and have heard nothing but bad things about them here locally. I am however very interested in Joes mod for his valve body. I did some reading on it before when you had it going, but I have let it go. Do you have anything on it that is pinned so I could re-read how to do it again?
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 11:03 AM
  #18  
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Joe I have been told by a pretty smart guy with trannies that you can get the same result by drilling out the hole in the seperator plate. Have you tried that at all? I really don't know but RacerX at TDS builds these trannies and said that. it would be much easier to replace the seperator plate than the accum. body.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 11:42 AM
  #19  
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well good luck with your homemade shift kits and make shift holes in the valve body
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 01:55 PM
  #20  
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You asked............
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 03:45 PM
  #21  
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Neal 97 250
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From: Johnson City, TN.
true so true......
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 03:59 PM
  #22  
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Oh well, I guess I'll be waiting to blow up my ****ty *** tranny built ford tough right??
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 04:08 PM
  #23  
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news but if you look at any diesel truck the weak link is ALWAYS the transmission. Engine technology has far exceeded transmission tech and the result is that the tranny will fail much sooner than the engine. It all depends on what you are doing with your truck. You may be jsut fine driving it empty, or pulling light loads.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 04:13 PM
  #24  
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Kinda funny this thread- how many people u supposed called Banks, Tymer,Wildman ,Edelbrock or even thegreat Smokie Yunick a SHADETREE MECHANIC!!!!!
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 04:36 PM
  #25  
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From: Johnson City, TN.
I bet that is the way they all started. Pretty sure of it.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 05:04 PM
  #26  
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It's just so funny as soon as someone has a different setup then the majority of people in here automatically their setup is junk and going to instantly "blow up" their truck or something and everyone bags on them....
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 05:10 PM
  #27  
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From: Belair md
well i am calm today and shouldnt get po'ed at people like that, i dont really care if you dont like my set-up but it is tried and true on 2 of my rigs and a bunch of friends, i'm no milionaire from it but i suppose i could get some stickers made up.....lol
Tj, i havent drilled the plate, never thought of that, the accumulaotr is easier and faster to pull, no check ***** to mess with, but i have never had a problem after drilling and never egged one too much on accident, so i see no need to pull the plate, the holes you drill in the body are simple an d easy to do. it only takes a minute to do all 3 holes. i do have a couple extra plates, may look into that but i will stick with the drilled bodies for ease and swappability
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 05:11 PM
  #28  
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Neal 97 250
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From: Johnson City, TN.
Time tells all mods. I agree just give it a chance and try it yourself if you are brave. Analize the thread and it will tell you lots about the thread. Also never judge. We are not here to judge just to test and reply.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 05:11 PM
  #29  
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From: Belair md
<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">



well, if they work the upper picture is your accumulator body, its the furthest foreword hunk of aluminum under your trans pan, remove it and flip it over,
top left piston is your line pressure valve, lower left is your 1-2 shift, top right is your 2-3 and lower right is 3-4.

ok the lower pic is the close up of the 1-2 and 2-3 valves where you need to locate the slight dimple in the aluminum, its the first rail at the output of the piston from the valve. the picture isnt the best but once in your hand you cant miss them, drill a 1\16 hole through each rail, the larger the hole the harder your shift will be, i dont recomend the hole that you see in the picture...lol, that is 3 sizes up from the 1\16, had that in my other truck and wow, what a shift that was, the 1\16 will give you a nice crisp shift at WOT. be extra careful not to egg the hole out when you drill it otherwise your shift may be harder than you like, drilling on a 45degree angle is the easiest to control, every trans is a little different so start small and egg very slowly until you get the desired shift,

i will be experimenting with the line pressure valve to see what i can come up with there and also by using the pcm to electronicly advance the epc, they are still in the trial stages so i dont recommend trying them yet, the drilling of the holes is 100% safe, i even ran it by ford motor companies field service engineer and he was very impressed by the results and could see no damage occuring from this mod unless you go crazy and grab a huge bit, the worse that could happen is break our flimsy 4 pinion aluminum foreward planetary set but then you upgrade to the 4r100 6 pinion forged steel, (direct bolt in) and you'll never have a problem again, but again that is worse case if you go with some massive hole like some idiot i know.......hmmmm what was i thinking?

here is the section describing how it works and what to do
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 05:38 PM
  #30  
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From: Albuquerque
Thanks Joe for the repost! I will study this one closely.
 
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