A/c 91-f250
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New User
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: St. louis area
A/c 91-f250
I had the 5.8 replaced in my truck about a month ago, along with a Motorcraft A/C compressor. Last night the compressor locks up and the clutch starts smok'in. I had the same problems as earlier post with the temp. not being real cold at slow speeds on normal A/C. Max A/C seemed to preform "OK". It's been over 90 degrees here for all this time since replacement, so I assumed it was just normal. Should I have them change condenser when they replace compressor, if that is the problem?
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Goose Creek SC
based on what I read in another post.....the R12 condenser is too small when you convert tp R134..........so if you did......then yes........get a newer condonser made to use with R134.
Good Luck
Bob
Good Luck
Bob
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Piney Woods of East Texas
You loose about 30% of you cooling when you switch to R134a over R12. Changing the condensor coil will help eleviate that. R12 has dropped in price the last year or so, but still high. There are some replacements ref out now that are perform pretty good.
You do need to flush your complete system. Replace the drier and cap tube. Flush them good, you don't want metal parts to knock out another compressor. When you flush a system you must replace all of the oil that normally resides in these parts. Driers normaly require 2-3 oz, evap 1-3 oz, cond 2-3 oz. If you do not add this oil your compressor will be low on oil. 134A does not like mineral base oil, turns it to acid. If you need exact number let me know, I can did my book out.
Cap tube systems are not cool good when the engine is <1200 rpm. I recommend running on recirculate vs normal. That way your not trying to cool 90+ deg air down.
You do need to flush your complete system. Replace the drier and cap tube. Flush them good, you don't want metal parts to knock out another compressor. When you flush a system you must replace all of the oil that normally resides in these parts. Driers normaly require 2-3 oz, evap 1-3 oz, cond 2-3 oz. If you do not add this oil your compressor will be low on oil. 134A does not like mineral base oil, turns it to acid. If you need exact number let me know, I can did my book out.
Cap tube systems are not cool good when the engine is <1200 rpm. I recommend running on recirculate vs normal. That way your not trying to cool 90+ deg air down.
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From: St. louis area
Mine has been changed over for a year or two already and the tech was aware of that when he serviced the A/C. Max air had been working good, but the norm. air setting did'nt work so well. And the new compressor was a bit noisy after the service one month ago. It started out pretty quiet and then seemed to get noisier toward the last week. Should I be able to tell the service guys to get another condenser, and is it going to be available quickly? Do I need to get it myself and take it to them. Do you think they made the mistake or is it possible that the parts were bad already. They were Ford parts from a dealer.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Piney Woods of East Texas
Since your doing a non factory condensor get it and take it to him. Compressors have a coating on the cylinders. As it goes the noise goes up. The main thing after a flush to remove metal and oil is to add fresh oil directly into the new componets. I like to use high volume air to clean out and metal or coatings material. Depending on what I get out of the lines I do a second or 3rd flush till its clean.
The higher head pressure of a 134A system may be causing the compressor to prematurely fail. Check to see it there is a 134 compressor too.
The higher head pressure of a 134A system may be causing the compressor to prematurely fail. Check to see it there is a 134 compressor too.
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