I am trying to get the rear drums off of my 78 F250. I got the wheel off and the axle out no problem. There is a large irregular shaped nut (or 2) holding the drum to the axle housing. In the absence of a specialized tool is there any way to get these nuts off?
Thanks in advance
Greg C

 

a chisel and hammer works just dont hit the threads.

 

You can buy the socket at any tool supply. The are not that expensive and are a heck of a lot easier and safer than the old chisel method. Don't forget to bend back the retainer tabs before you try to take the nuts off.

 

DO NOT USE A COLD CHISEL go get the proper axle nut socket. When you put the hub back on make sure you buy a new lock washer don't reuse the old one. The tang that goes into the slot on the spindle breaks off and usually the tabs on the washer are worn out.

Many Dana 60 and 70 axles have lost their wheels from the lock washer failing the axle nuts back off the wheel starts walking off the spindle and screws up the threads on the spindle.

 

My cousin lost a wheel and it actually split the spindle. He called me and asked for help to get it off the road. I loaded up my tools and went out to help him. There was no way we could get the nuts back on because of the expanded spindle. It ended up on the back of a wrecker, but we did get it off of the road. Replacing that housing was an expensive lesson.

 

It'll be a 2 9/16" socket and make sure to get new seals while you are getting the lockwashers and new 3/4" drive socket. Napa should have it all.
Good luck.

 

I had it happen to my Dana 70 in my 1 ton dually the lock washer looked good it wasn't the washer failed the nuts spun the wheels walked off and the spindle threads were ruined. Same thing happened to my dads 75 1 ton the axle nuts let go same thing happened.

I heard the same thing happens to Dana 60s too.

 

Tractoman,
Would you happen to know if a 84 F250 HD needs the same size socket to remove the rear drums? I went to my local Napa store (I am located in San Jose/ South Bay area)and they didn't have a socket that large, so I had to go online and got sent the wrong size twice! (2 1/2", then 2 3/4") Both times the person said it was the right size for my truck. The 2 1/2" socket is barely too small, while the 2 3/4" just spins over the nut. I really need to do my back brakes soon as I am losing braking power. I have completely redone the front, resurfaced rotors, new calipers, hoses, pads, bearings, master cylinder, power booster, bled system. I have all the parts I need to do the rears, just need to get that nut off! Thanks in advance for the info!

 

I thought the newer trucks had a different style nut but I am not sure. I just pulled one of my axles out and measured the nut on mine and then bought one online. Napa should have the socket. There must be a bunch in the south bay. Maybe call around. Have you measured yours. My rear axle is a Dana 60. Sounds like 2 9/16 might be your number.

 

The Ford 10.25 uses clicker nut I never had any experience with them but with the 10.25 you really don't need to take the hub off being they are outboard drums ie slip over the wheel studs.

The newer Dana axles have outboard drums so you don't need to remove the hub. They don't use the two nuts anymore they use a nylock type nut with a wedge you drive into the nylon ring in the nut.

You need the 2 9/16s socket to take the lock nut and the adjusting nut off the spindle.

When you do the rear brakes you replace the drum and wheel seal. The drums are usually egg shaped and worn out so replace them.

Pull the axle shaft out take the axle nuts off put them on a clean paper towel pull the hub assembly forward a little so the front bearing comes out put it on a paper towel. Pull the drum all the way off becareful about the spindle threads. Put the drum wide side down take a long drift through the hub hole and punch the rear bearing out which pushes the wheel seal out.

Inspect the bearings if they have pits or blueing replace the bearings and races. Next drive out all 8 studs the drum will separate from the hub then clean the surfaces put the new drum on the hub drive new wheel studs back in. Pack the rear bearing with grease then put it back into the hub then take the wheel seal and carefully drive it into the hub.

Do the brakes replace everything even wheel cylinders put the hub and drum back over the spindle making d*mn sure you don't knick the seal on the threads of the spindle. Pack the outer bearing with grease then put it in the hub screw the adjusting nut onto the spindle. When the nut starts to contact the outer bearing spin the drum and tighten the nut till the drum is hard to turn. Back the adjusting nut off half a turn or untill the outer bearing has some preload. Too much preload the bearing burns up too loose the bearing hammers. Put the lock washer on bend a tang over the adjusting nut then install the lock nut tighten this nut fairly tight it needs to be it binds against the adjusting nut. Then bend tang over the lock nut. The tang must be flat against a edge of the nut.

Good Luck I started doing brakes when I was 16 years old not a real big deal its just a pain in the azz.

 

Thanks for all the info guys. I went ahead and took the nuts off with a hammer and chisel. However after reading your posts Kenworth I have ordered the nuts and washer
something about wheels falling off makes me reconcider spending the cash. Thanks all for your input.
Greg C