I went to change my rear break shoes on my '97 F250 HD today but could not get the drum off. I loosened the adjuster and the drum would move on the axle/lug nuts but not come off. It is not rusted. I looked in my Chilton's manual and it said that I need to pull the axle out in order to remove the drum. Is this indeed correct? Any tips for getting the break drum off?

 

You should not have to pull the axle. Sounds like the drum is stuck on the shoes or to the hub. I would try a little persuasion with a hammer to break loose some rust. I am sure someone else will have some suggestions. Good luck.

 

Yes, pound all around with a hammer to loosen the rust. Use a pry bar in back between the drum and backing plate and pry out on one side, then the other. Then with your feet or whatever slam it back in, repeat until it comes off.

 

Not being a smartass, but did you take the park brake off?

 

It can be a challenging task if they have not been off in a while.

The drum gets a ridge of rust on the inside edge where the shoes do not contact.when you remove the drum you are pulling that built up rust ledge over the larger diameter shoes.just be patient,it will come off.IF you back the manual adj down it can make it easier but you would just about have to have the proper brake spoon to get it done.

 

Thanks for the responses. I do have proper break spoons and had the adjusters backed off all the way. No the parking break was not on. I have pulled many drums off in my lifetime, never on this truck though. Could be a ridge built up from wear and a little rust - rust is not much of an issue in my climate at least but there could be some around the interior edge of the drum.

I only had a short time to work on it as I was also replacing the front break pads and repacking the wheel bearings before heading to the back country hunting with my kids during my free time for the next month. When the drums did not come off with some persuasion I read the Chilton's manual and it said to remove the axle to get the drum off for that year and model. At this point I figured I had enough to get done before work this morning and would ask on the FTE forum to make sure I had to go that rout or get a really large puller and crank it over the rust and lip.

The drum was moving left and right around the lug nuts, it just would not budge in and out. There are two "lock washer" type things on two of the lug nuts inside the drum - wondering if they are attached to the drum itself and holding it from sliding out. They have little flanges cut into them at a 45* and flared up at about a 45* that grab the threads of the two lug nuts - would these also be holding the drum to the axle and be the reason that the Chilton's said to pull the axle to remove the lug nuts holding the drum to the axle I wonder?

 

You just found your problem. Didn't think of that but get them off of there, that's what is holding the drum on. I got rid of mine, I always thought they were a factory thing and not needed but could be wrong.

 

What happens is the drum cups out and forms a lip that the pads sit into.

If you have the right tool you can loosen the adjuster and get it off, if you dont have a tool to get around the adjuster to move the lock, you'll have to pound it off.

Basically what that means is you either need the drums turned or you need to replace them.

Judge based on the lip formed at the edge when you get them off.

You can replace the rear spring kits and adjusters and such with new wheel cylinders and pads for around 90 dollars, super cheap.

Drums, i have no idea what those cost. I put mine back on anyways. haha.