Frozen Distributor
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Frozen Distributor
<o
> </o>I have a 87 F150 with the 5.0. The timing is off by 5 degs but the distributor is frozen and can not be turned. I have sprayed PB buster but no luck. Is there a special tool or trick to get these unstuck?
I am thinking that there must be a tool since there seems to be a small section that a wrench could fit on, but it would have to be bent to get down in there.
> </o>I have a 87 F150 with the 5.0. The timing is off by 5 degs but the distributor is frozen and can not be turned. I have sprayed PB buster but no luck. Is there a special tool or trick to get these unstuck?I am thinking that there must be a tool since there seems to be a small section that a wrench could fit on, but it would have to be bent to get down in there.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Turn the crank back and forth and watch the play between the movement of the crank and the when the rotor starts to move in the distributor.
If the play is more than 2 Deg (should be zero) at the timing mark replace the timing chain.
Put it back together and check the timing, I bet it will be close to 10 Deg BTDC with the SPOUT out and you will not have to move the distributor.
I bet the play is about 5 Deg now and if you do not change the chain it is going to leave you on the side of the road.
If the play is more than 2 Deg (should be zero) at the timing mark replace the timing chain.
Put it back together and check the timing, I bet it will be close to 10 Deg BTDC with the SPOUT out and you will not have to move the distributor.
I bet the play is about 5 Deg now and if you do not change the chain it is going to leave you on the side of the road.
Last edited by subford; Aug 16, 2007 at 07:36 AM.
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OK I got it. went and got a chain wrench from NAPA and had a tight fit getting it in there, but it did the trick to get it loose. The timing is now set, but the engine still runs rough and does not have the power it should. It is drivable and once up to speed does fine.
Only 84k original miles on it so I am not sure it would be the timing chain.
I already put in a new ECT sensor and Idle Air control
Checked spark plug wires and did not notice a difference when pulling them one by one. Looks like the filter has been changed already as I don't think NAPA filters are original equip.
I Will change out the distributor cap and rotor and see if that makes a difference, the only other thing I can think of is mayby the fuel pressure regulator.
Only 84k original miles on it so I am not sure it would be the timing chain.
I already put in a new ECT sensor and Idle Air control
Checked spark plug wires and did not notice a difference when pulling them one by one. Looks like the filter has been changed already as I don't think NAPA filters are original equip.
I Will change out the distributor cap and rotor and see if that makes a difference, the only other thing I can think of is mayby the fuel pressure regulator.
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Solon, Ohio
If your distributor was pretty well stuck, then it probably hasn't been moved in quite a while, meaning it was probably where it should have been.....................so messing with it may have contaminated the evidence you need to properly trace this down.
Quite obviously the problem wasn't that the distributor jumped, or that someone moved it.
Make the checks that subford suggested, he knows his ****.
And the checks won't cost anything.
Quite obviously the problem wasn't that the distributor jumped, or that someone moved it.
Make the checks that subford suggested, he knows his ****.
And the checks won't cost anything.
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Tried Subford's test and rotor and crank moved together.
I also ran the self test or think I did anyways and came up with "22" which points towards the MAP sensor. I checked the voltage between the return and signaland got 3 volts but my volt meter is not very good so that may not be accurate. Should have between 4 - 6 volts.
I still need to check for vacume leaks and was told that using carb cleaner and listening for the engine to rev up was a good way to check for leaks.
Any other ways to test the MAP sensor without a vacume pump?
I also ran the self test or think I did anyways and came up with "22" which points towards the MAP sensor. I checked the voltage between the return and signaland got 3 volts but my volt meter is not very good so that may not be accurate. Should have between 4 - 6 volts.
I still need to check for vacume leaks and was told that using carb cleaner and listening for the engine to rev up was a good way to check for leaks.
Any other ways to test the MAP sensor without a vacume pump?
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Yes, I had the spout out. I have it set at 10 deg but now the engine runs worse. Loaps at idel and loss of power, so I am thinking a couple of things
1. Test pointed to MAP sensor but that could also be vacume leak I think
2. I may have damaged the distributor in some way, but I was carefull in working with it.
3. Fuel pressure reg, but not sure
4. Fuel pumps but again not sure.
1. Test pointed to MAP sensor but that could also be vacume leak I think
2. I may have damaged the distributor in some way, but I was carefull in working with it.
3. Fuel pressure reg, but not sure
4. Fuel pumps but again not sure.
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by scoony
Yes, I had the spout out. I have it set at 10 deg but now the engine runs worse. Loaps at idel and loss of power, so I am thinking a couple of things
1. Test pointed to MAP sensor but that could also be vacume leak I think
2. I may have damaged the distributor in some way, but I was carefull in working with it.
3. Fuel pressure reg, but not sure
4. Fuel pumps but again not sure.
1. Test pointed to MAP sensor but that could also be vacume leak I think
2. I may have damaged the distributor in some way, but I was carefull in working with it.
3. Fuel pressure reg, but not sure
4. Fuel pumps but again not sure.
If it did not move that could be why someone set the timing to 15 Deg.
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