Frozen distributor
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Frozen distributor
I have a 1988 ford F350 with a 7.5 liter V8. The distributor is frozen and I can't get it out. Just need some help in getting this one out so I can replace it with a new one. While trying to get it out, I damaged the base where the hold down clamp sets at. I'm ok with that, I just want to get this one out.
I am soaking it right now and waiting for some help.
I am soaking it right now and waiting for some help.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
Likely there is varnish on the underside of the distributor base from years of oil splash. Soaking is a good thing to do, but you can also use a crowbar to apply upward pressure to the 'cup', leveraging on a 2x4 or other piece of wood, while at the same time, rotating the distributor body back and forth. Take your time if you plan on re-using the distributor.
tom
tom
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
What are you soaking it with? I have found that PB Blaster is very good for this sort of thing. After the soak, get a large pair of water pump pliers and try twisting the dist. or a strap wrench will also work. I go to a couple of big pry bars last.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
yes I am using PB Blaster tho soak the distributor, I am going to try again Thursday.
One thing? Some of my friends tell me that I don't have to change the pick up coil, just
change the module. I know that ford said that you should change both of them together. Have anyone had luck in just changing the module and not the coil?
One thing? Some of my friends tell me that I don't have to change the pick up coil, just
change the module. I know that ford said that you should change both of them together. Have anyone had luck in just changing the module and not the coil?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
Most times I've had the windings in the pickup coil open up. It is a passive device, and unless they short to ground, they can hardly fry the module, but I guess you takes your chances..
tom
tom
Trending Topics
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 837
Likes: 2
From: Minnesota
Soak it hot, soak it cold ... I like a penetrant called Deep Creep ... tap the dist. and/or the manifold before, after, during application and while trying to turn it/lift it; cool the dist/heat the mainfold; curse it, talk to it, pray over it.
Note I said "tap" ... you want to introduce vibrations, not dents!
Good luck with it.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
A 20+ year Ford truck mechanic friend of mine ruined my original distributor trying to get it out the first time the setting was changed (13 yrs old, 38,000 miles). Even using never-sieze afterwords doesn't seem to make that much difference over time. They just sort of settle in and DON'T want to move.
Soak it hot, soak it cold ... I like a penetrant called Deep Creep ... tap the dist. and/or the manifold before, after, during application and while trying to turn it/lift it; cool the dist/heat the mainfold; curse it, talk to it, pray over it.
Note I said "tap" ... you want to introduce vibrations, not dents!
Good luck with it.
Soak it hot, soak it cold ... I like a penetrant called Deep Creep ... tap the dist. and/or the manifold before, after, during application and while trying to turn it/lift it; cool the dist/heat the mainfold; curse it, talk to it, pray over it.
Note I said "tap" ... you want to introduce vibrations, not dents!
Good luck with it.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 837
Likes: 2
From: Minnesota
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt
must be a common thing, I have an 89 w/460 and the distributor will not budge. I wanted to advance my timing but it is stuck at 10 degrees.
Originally Posted by jadmt
must be a common thing, I have an 89 w/460 and the distributor will not budge. I wanted to advance my timing but it is stuck at 10 degrees.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
Missed that, sorry for the misinterpretation.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,628
Likes: 0
From: Northeast Nebraska
Its not varnish that makes the dizzy sticky. Its the aluminum housing that corrodes and basically fuses with the cast iron block. I havent tried it but Ive heard packing dry ice around the dizzy base will loosen it up. Aluminum will shrink more than the cast iron and along with some penetrating oil it should come out with a little effort.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
Kicks, you live in NB. Everything old there is coated with salt in the winter... Heh.
Having lived in MA, IN, and CO, I have yet to see one corroded in place, though it probably has happened. The ones I've seen have all been held by varnish. The one in a 292 had been untouched from the factory for 4 years, and I used a crowbar to turn it to set the timing. I don't remember if it had corrosion, but it had seen winters in IL, MA, and IN before it got its first set of replacement points. Maintenance was not my Dad's strong suit. He sure was surprised when all our cars started so quickly after I learned a bit about mechanic-ing.
tom
Having lived in MA, IN, and CO, I have yet to see one corroded in place, though it probably has happened. The ones I've seen have all been held by varnish. The one in a 292 had been untouched from the factory for 4 years, and I used a crowbar to turn it to set the timing. I don't remember if it had corrosion, but it had seen winters in IL, MA, and IN before it got its first set of replacement points. Maintenance was not my Dad's strong suit. He sure was surprised when all our cars started so quickly after I learned a bit about mechanic-ing.
tom