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A few people had asked about headers in the past few weeks, so I figured I'd post up what I had done.
How thick are the tubes on those? If they're thinner than 16 gauge watch the shortest tubes for cracking around the collector right next to the welds.
JL
How thick are the tubes on those? If they're thinner than 16 gauge watch the shortest tubes for cracking around the collector right next to the welds.
JL
I think that it is gonna be a pain in the a$$ to install my ebay headers in my 99 F350 2wd. The front coils block just about everything for access from the wheel well. Anyone done headers on a 2wd?
You can get just the headers/y-pipe setup seperatly from Banks and several online stores. I would do a search. I looked at Banks while shopping for headers and found a few places that sell the just the headers and y.
Thanks I will look around some more, by the way do the headers and y pipe bolt up to the oem pipe or does it have to be modified?
The Banks is supposed to be one of the best fitting header/ ypipe setups on the market. The Y-pipe connects at the triangular shaped flange in front of the cat converter. There is some wiggle room in the exhaust system.
The Banks is supposed to be one of the best fitting header/ ypipe setups on the market. The Y-pipe connects at the triangular shaped flange in front of the cat converter. There is some wiggle room in the exhaust system.
Unless Banks has changed, you used to have to cut the flange off if the triangle connector was in front of the crossmember. On the earlier models that had the connector behind the crossmember, it would bolt right up.
Unless Banks has changed, you used to have to cut the flange off if the triangle connector was in front of the crossmember. On the earlier models that had the connector behind the crossmember, it would bolt right up.
You may be right, As you know I don't have the Banks set-up I have the Thorleys. I was just going by the install pics I've seen on the net and Banks pictures. My Thorleys bolted right up to the triangular flange.
How thick are the tubes on those? If they're thinner than 16 gauge watch the shortest tubes for cracking around the collector right next to the welds.
JL
The problem I see with the Ebay headers is the Welds themselves. They are TIG welded. The reason other header manufactuers MIG weld headers is not just because MIG is cheaper but that it has a higher metal deposite rate which produces a larger, thicker and stronger bead than the tiny TIG weld beads on the Ebay headers. If you MIG weld the ebay headers they won't crack.
The problem I see with the Ebay headers is the Welds themselves. They are TIG welded. The reason other header manufactuers MIG weld headers is not just because MIG is cheaper but that it has a higher metal deposite rate which produces a larger, thicker and stronger bead than the tiny TIG weld beads on the Ebay headers. If you MIG weld the ebay headers they won't crack.
I'll argue with you on this.
Tbirds have problems with JBA headers doing the same thing,and they're 16ga tubing. We've tried MIG welding them to repair,and it cracks right near the welds again afterward. Tbirds don't see anywhere near the heat in the manifolds/headers as a truck does(esp the V10 that stays in stoich air/fuel all the time)-I just don't see "shorty" headers lasting for long term on a truck.
The fuel strategy on the V10 of stoich air fuel all the time is also a suspicion of mine as to why so many guys have problems with the studs breaking off. Excessive heat and expansion eventually deteriorates the studs to the point that they fail.
JL
I'll argue with you on this.
Tbirds have problems with JBA headers doing the same thing,and they're 16ga tubing. We've tried MIG welding them to repair,and it cracks right near the welds again afterward. Tbirds don't see anywhere near the heat in the manifolds/headers as a truck does(esp the V10 that stays in stoich air/fuel all the time)-I just don't see "shorty" headers lasting for long term on a truck.
The fuel strategy on the V10 of stoich air fuel all the time is also a suspicion of mine as to why so many guys have problems with the studs breaking off. Excessive heat and expansion eventually deteriorates the studs to the point that they fail.
JL
It could be a weak point on the shorties then. I don't know where on the shortie Ebay headers that they broke. TeamMudd said he has seen several ebay V10 headers crack, I don't remember if he said where though. Stainless headers are more sucetible to cracking because of the alloys used within. 16 Ga. is not very for headers IMO, thats one reason why I went with the Thorleys for my truck, 14Ga tubing. You could try welding the cracked headers with a Nickel rod. The Nickel will stay soft afterwelding and be less suceptable to cracking. Nickel is used to repair cast iron also.
I agree,IMO-all truck headers should be at least 14 ga tubing. The problem on the shorties is the distance and size of the tube and expansion when hot with very little area to allow flex when expanding.
JL
All this talk of headers is very interesting but I have a question about the stock manifolds. If I were to just keep the stock manifolds what would be the best way to go, replace just the broken studs (so for I only have 1 broken) or replace studs with bolts? Thanks, John
All this talk of headers is very interesting but I have a question about the stock manifolds. If I were to just keep the stock manifolds what would be the best way to go, replace just the broken studs (so for I only have 1 broken) or replace studs with bolts? Thanks, John
If you keep your OEM stock exhaust manifolds, then you will first need to determine if they are warped. If they are...then you will need a machine shop to correct that.
IMO...just go with replacing all the studs...with studs.
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