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As a new guy to the diesel world I need info re Exhaust brakes to assist in slowing/stopping my 5th wheel travel trailer. Hopefully it will also remove the eer In The Headlight" look from my wife while desending steep grades.
I wouldn't be without my exhaust brake. After purchasing the truck new in 96, the first thing I did is go to Camping World and have Western Gear e-brake installed. This brake goes down under the truck (not next to the turbo) It's electric activated,most of the e-brakes out there are vaccum activated. I felt that just incase the vaccum pump that controls the main brakes ever did fail, I'd have some form of backup brake???. I really haven't heard anything bad about any of the e-brakes. We haul a 30' fifth wheel and going down any pass or just a steep hill is a piece of cake. Out here 6% grade for several miles is pretty common. From the top we are lucky to hit 35-40mph by the time we get to the bottom, and that can be for several miles. There's time we have to give the truck throttle, just to get to the bottom. On the other hand if you find yourself going to fast, just tape the brakes and slowdown to the speed you want and once again it will hold you at a slower speed. That's where you need a torque coverter lock up switch. That's one thing that you really should do. If you decide on a e-brake, have a torque coverter lock up switch installed. It really is a must! We have one make by BD. The problem without one is that once the TC unlocks, with or without the e-brake, you're free wheeling. The purpose of the lock up is, it does notunlock above 25mph. I still have fairly low miles on the truck 94000, and still have the original brakes. According to Les Schwab Tire and Brake, they claim I still have about 50% left in the pads. Same goes with the trailer. What ever you decide, best of luck.
You know that's a great question, and that's why I went with the brake that mounts down stream from the tubo. At the time the indication was that it would harm the turbo, setting next to it. But I feel history has shown that that's not true, plus 90% of all e-brake mount up near the turbo. Also I think a pressure bypass might prevent any damage?
To use your ebpv as a brake is an efficient alternative to the expensive ones. It will slow the motor but has a 3 second delay on activation. ou can do it for less than a dollar. You unplug the ebpv and take the red wire on the harness side of the plug and run a switched hot wire to it. Then replug. flip the switch to activate. Be sure not to accidently leave it switched. Best bang for the buck. Although the high dollar ones have more bells and whistles the EBPV brak works great.
Thanks for the reply, it was greatly appreciated. One more question re the lock out switch. How is this done and....I was under the impression that when the OD was switched off that in it's self locked the TQ.
I was informed by a diesel shop to stay away from the turbo mounted EB's as there is somewhat of an restriction and that it will increase the turbo temp which leads to premature failure.
You guru's out there have the knowledge which brings that old saying into play...There is no one smarter than all of us.
Thanks again for the input.
Roger
True on the heat that is why you should watch the EGT's and it is a good idea to watch the BP so it doesn't exceed 40-45 psi. The professional ones automatically release when it gets to this point but the EBPV does not and needs to be watched
Thanks for the reply, it was greatly appreciated. One more question re the lock out switch. How is this done and....I was under the impression that when the OD was switched off that in it's self locked the TQ.
I was informed by a diesel shop to stay away from the turbo mounted EB's as there is somewhat of an restriction and that it will increase the turbo temp which leads to premature failure.
You guru's out there have the knowledge which brings that old saying into play...There is no one smarter than all of us.
Thanks again for the input.
Roger
what kind of sound do you get when you use the EBVP as a brake.
This type of brake should not make much noise...you are thinking of a Jake brake...thats the one that makes the noise...it works slightly differently...
ive heard that some of the aftermarket exhaust brakes sounded like jake brakes. i just wondered if the EBPV mod would yeild similar sounds. guess not. if im not mistaken, on a big rig the jake brake holds the exhaust valves open. is this correct? i think i saw that on an episode of "Trucks"
I have a BD brake on mine. It's turbo mounted. When the revs are high (2500 RPM+) it makes a pretty loud hissing, kind of like a compressed air nozzle. Makes sense to me since it is set for 45 PSI drop so when the RPMs are high it's got 45 PSI whooshing past the valve. At lower RPMs it makes the engine 'growl' a little. Nowhere near as loud as a jake though.
As for locking the TC: When stock, the TC locks in 3rd and 4th when the throttle is off idle or the cruse control is on. It will lock in 2nd above 1/2 throttle. Later year trucks will leave it locked during coast until the brakes are tapped. Hitting the overdrive switch doesn't change the lockup.
I don't have a TC lockup switch. I know it would work better with one, but it still brakes the truck pretty good. It does make a lot of heat in the tranny, but since the engine isn't working too the oil to water cooler does a good job. Because of the slip, I actually go down high in a gear lower than I would go up it in.
You also shouldn't make your tranny wind up the engine with the exhaust brake on. It's real hard on the coast clutch (OD canceled) or bands (1st or 2nd gear). Give it some throttle when down-selecting the tranny which will turn off the exhaust brake and wind up the engine RPM.
if im not mistaken, on a big rig the jake brake holds the exhaust valves open. is this correct? i think i saw that on an episode of "Trucks"
A jake brake uses a second set of lobes on the cam to open the exhaust brake on the power stroke. For full jake, the exhaust valve opens right at the end of the compression stroke. This makes all the energy put into the compression stroke lost as the air rushes out the exhaust (which is a lot of pressure on a diesel). The loud blap blap blap of a jake is from the high pressure air running out the exhaust.
An exhaust brake is a weak cousin of the jake. An exhaust brake can hold back only 50 PSI or so before the pressure on the back of the exhaust valves starts to make the valves open during the intake stroke. A jake can use the full compression stroke to brake with, and on a diesel it's around 300 PSI or so at high RPM.
A jake brake uses a second set of lobes on the cam to open the exhaust brake on the power stroke. For full jake, the exhaust valve opens right at the end of the compression stroke. This makes all the energy put into the compression stroke lost as the air rushes out the exhaust (which is a lot of pressure on a diesel). The loud blap blap blap of a jake is from the high pressure air running out the exhaust.
An exhaust brake is a weak cousin of the jake. An exhaust brake can hold back only 50 PSI or so before the pressure on the back of the exhaust valves starts to make the valves open during the intake stroke. A jake can use the full compression stroke to brake with, and on a diesel it's around 300 PSI or so at high RPM.
That pretty much sums it up but on your first sentence you stated the jake brake... on a PSD. We do not have a true jake brake. Also on the big rigs you are correct the exhaust valves are held open essentially making the engine a big air compressor.