I have a '50 F-1 and I am about ready for insulation. Would you put any on the interior of the doors before reinstalling the glass and door handle mechanisms? If so, what is the best type as to not interfere with the windows?

 

It can get wet inside the doors so you have to use something that water does not effect. Might consider Lizard Skin, or one of the rubberized or tar based products. Some sound deadening material like HushMat is also a good thing to use to get rid of the "hollow" sound.

 

I wanted to put some Peel N Stick on mine but it had factory-sprayed stuff on it. I didn't want to scrape it all off well enough to get the Peel N Stick to stay. But I've heard it works well if you get down to a nice smooth surface.

 

Woodsman, here is a recent post from me.
This past weekend I had the chance to do some testing with a non-contact temp sensor on my three hot rods. I have just completed installing B-Quirt over the Lizard Skin sprayed earlier. I was a little concerned about that decision and wanted to see, before upholstery, how it performed. The outside temp was low 90's in bright sun. The car is a 1940 Ford coupe painted black. First I tested outside of an area that does not yet have B-Quiet on it [ran out]. I was shocked to find only a 5 degree difference between the outside and directly opposite on the inside. I had the Lizard Skin applied by a local shop that does so regularly. Did they not do it corectly???? Certainly looked good, but how do you ascertain 40 mils? I later decided to do the underside of the car and sprayed it myself, I don't know if I got 40 mils. I do like how the Lizard Skin seals the surface. Anyway, next I tested the area with B-Quite over the Lizard Skin. WOW, a 60 degree difference. I also tested my Blue 46 coupe with some insulation that comes from the aircraft industry [not sure of the name, black, closed cell foam type stuff] and a headliner. It was 40 degree's different. Then I tested my 53 F100 with two layers of the "jute" backed foil. I put the first layer in with the foil toward outside and then was told by many that was the wrong way, so I intalled a second layer with the foil to the inside. It has a Rod Doors ABS plastic headliner. It also tested at a 40 degree difference. Of course, what I don't know is what a effect a headliner will have on the 40, I hope for the better.

__________________
fordie--- If I can do it, then you can for sure!

 

Foil goes to the hot side, it is a (heat) radiation barrier

 

Thanks for the info Joe. ALBQU F-1 Why does the foil side go toward the heat source? In housing construction, radiant barriers such as roofing and wall material the foil goes toward the insdie of the house. Just curious.

 

Here is a site referenced in a previous insulation thread that may be interesting: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

The important thing to remember about inside door insulation is that it needs to be waterproof. The tar products seem to be the best for use there.

 

Ros, I have made that same incorrect assumption about foil to the outside. That would seem to be the common sense approach. However, the B-quiet, Dynamat, etc., can't be applied with foil to outside. Most of these products that are foil on one side are intended to be applied with foil to inside when using as insulation inside a vehicle. Now if you are using it for reflection, like on a window, then out is correct. When I tested this stuff the foil out toward the sun was reducing temp on surface from 95 ambient [and 160 on black paint] to like 82 on surface of foil. Joe

 

For sure, if the adhesive is on the non-foil side, you've got no choice. On houses, the assumption usually is that the heat inside the house in winter is what you are trying to keep (i.e., block heat flow to outside). So it is installed on the inner face of the studs. Nowadays they are adding a vapor barrier on the outside and frequently it is also foil-covered, as is the styrofoam stuff.

It will actually work either way, but is most effective if it blocks heat before it gets to the insulation.

 

This is a good topic, seeing as I was thinking about it myself. I was thinking about using the Lizard Skin mentioned and was wondering if that is all that you would need to use, does this stuff really measure up to it's claims and is it really cheaper to other alternatives. I remember back in the 70's when the vanning craze took hold guy's I knew were stuffing fiberglass insulation in but never seen any that were more than 5 years old, my thoughts of that now would think that moisture would be a problem. Your thoughts?

John

 

I have really nothing to say about insulation. My dad may have been an insulator most of his life, but I don't know anything about it, but I did like the fact he usually had visqueen around I could use to seal up the garage when I painted something.
Anywho, there was an interesting thread over at hotrodders doing some back yard chemistry due to the cost of lizzard skin awhile back. Just figured I'd pass the link on. I wouldn't think fiberglass insulation would be a good idea, thinThink it would hold moisture in door bottoms, an area that can be a problem in the first place. Epoxy on the other hand is impervious to water and moisture.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alte...in-103610.html

 

I used the "mylar bubble wrap" type of insulation in my F-3. It's inexpensive but effective. Being from the hot and humid south (originally) I was primarily concerned with heat transfer through the floor and firewall and secondarily with road noise so I used it on the inside firewall, kick panel area, floor, back of the cab, and on the ceiling under the headliner. I did not use any in doors because of the possibility of trapped moisture and the eventual rust that would come with it. There would be little heat transfer from doors anyway.

 

What are you guys doing if anything to seal the door bottoms. I put the orginal weatherstripping on but it doesn't seal real well. And that open hole in the front sides of the cab. I thought about filling it with that foam (home) insulation but read it traps moisture in it, so I've done nothing yet.

 

Your question is not clear. When you say "...but it doesn't seal real well", are you saying that the weatherstrip does not seal out air noise/water??? OR, are you hoping the weatherstrip is supposed to seal the door (insides) somehow? The doors are designed to drain water out the bottom. That's why they rust there. Water will run into the inside of the door off the window. There are drain holes along the very bottom of the door pan and the weatherstrip follows along a surface slightly above that so the door drains.

What hole is that?

 

I think a good way to do insides of doors is if you can clean everything up good (can be difficult inside doors) poor some epoxy primer down into the bottom of the door. Alot of people like to use something like 3m body shultz or cavity wax in these areas also. Although not a fan of the rust convertors, if can't clean rust inside the door well, might use some of that before the epoxy primer. Clean out old seam sealer on the outside skin flange, clean up any rust, and use a modern 2k seam sealer. Of course it would be nice to open the flange and treat in there too, but not real easy unless you feel like drilling out spot welds, carefully bend away and hammer back later. Then you could epoxy prime there also after clean up, and glue together with a 2k adhesive, and that would seal the seam and take place of a seam sealer. Less corrosion concerns then over welding since you are not burning off corrosion protection. If you want to weld, the epoxy the seam, grind off where spot welds will be and use weldthrough primer on those spots, and 2k seam sealer on the seam after spot welded back together. And of course after repairs are done, keep the drain holes clear regularily, as well as areas cleaned of packed dirt, mud or leaves.