Sound like you have the front covered. Any suggestions or great deals for rear replacement springs for the 48-50 F-1? Have a great day,chuck

 

I had my springs reworked at a local spring shop (Tampa Spring). They made new main leaves all round with reversed eyes, removed every other leaf, installed the teflon slider material, new clamps and new bushings (I supplied the bushings) and gave them back to me painted industrial strength black and ready to go - 4 springs for about $350. I later had to take the fronts back as they (My bad - they did what I asked) sat too low and flat so they added one more new leaf and re-arched them up 1". They basically charged me for the steel and their labor rate for the re-do which I thought was more than fair since it wasn't their mistake in the first place and the truck now sits about 3" lower all round (flipped the front rear spring hangers) and it feels like it will ride much better as well. Tampa Spring is primarily a big truck shop but they were happy to work on my F1 springs and turn around was about 3 days. I'm very happy with the results and got the moderate lowering I was wanting for the same price as discount springs. If you haven't already bought the springs you may want to inquire at a local shop. If you did buy them you can't get hurt at $80 per!

OilLeaks

 

I have a 51 also which is not yet on the road. I am looking to lower it about 3" as well. I do not understand the term "flipping the shackles". Would you consider expanding on this for us virgins?

Thanks

 

Why "soitenly". On the rear springs, when you run reversed eyes it's common to have to remove the front shackle or spring mount for the front of the spring and flip it upside down. This provides additional clearance for the reversed spring eye (keeps it in the same relationship to the shackle that it was before you reversed it) and it gives you the opportunity to move the shackle up on the frame which also lowers the body.

On my 51 once I'd chiseled the shackles off (they are riveted on and the rivets can be quite stubborn - BIG hammer and a cold chisel - I consider it therapy) I welded up the old holes and ground them smooth and then flipped the shackle and moved it up on the frame about 1 inch for additional lowering. I drilled new holes to mount the shackles and then used 3/8" grade 8 bolts to attach it instead of rivets. I still had to grind a wee bit of clearance on the edge of the shackle for the spring.

With the mods to my springs this gives me about a 3 inch drop and still gives me about 3 inches of clearance between the frame and the axle...any less and you should consider "C" notching the frame for additional clearance. I really don't know for sure exactly how much drop I've got as the bed is off the frame but with me and several sacks of cement on the rear part of the frame I get right at 3 inches of drop so I should be close once I get the bed and wood back on.

You can search this forum for mods to leaf springs and find a ton of good information from guys a whole lot smarter than me. I removed every other leaf from the rears and the same up front but then had to add another leaf back in and re-arch the front springs to get it to ride with the springs in a good position. F1 front springs are thinner than the later trucks and most of the info you'll see is about 2" springs. Besides that the flathead motor is HEAVY. Still I'm happy with the results and I expect it to ride better (it's still a TRUCK with a straight axle after all) and sit lower but still be driveable without having to worry about every bump or driveway.

You'll also have to buy new shorter shocks for the whole package to work right and you may find that the drag link is too long and has to be modified as well to keep the steering geometry correct and limit bump steer. Ax has some real good information regarding straight axle steering and bump steer on another post in this forum - search under bump steer.

Wish you the best and I hope that helps!

OilLeaks