Well, got my oil sampled, thanks JTharvey for sending me the bottles

Not so good news... lots of lead... Bearing wear... I am planning on changing the oil and the OG filter as well... What does everyone think about Schaeffer oil products? I was going to buy the 5w40 from Bean's diesel.

 

You should have never installed that throttle body spacer, with the flux capacitor, it says so right in the directions, can cause bearing wear. lol

 

Those numbers arent the end of the world.

 

Oh, Kris... I've already beat those numbers.... I just got my 11,713 mile report back on my Amsoil DEO 5w40, and she ain't pretty. Turns out I probably should have changed it out at about 7-8K miles.

Also, Kris, I'm on the same track you're on with the Schaeffers 5w40. I just ordered mine from a regional rep yesterday, and will pick it up from him next week.

On the bypass filter element, I'm changing mine out, too, just so I can give the Schaeffers a new start with new elements, and then get a real apples-to-apples comparison with the Amsoil.

I have searched and searched, and it seems that the OilGuard site is the best location to get their filters. Racor also stocks the EPS-20 filters as LFS-801BPE part numbers, but all the Racor dealers are charging at least $28 each, as opposed the the $24 "per" cost from OilGuard.

 

Kris, what brand is "diesel engine oil", did you recycle this out of one of the tractors?

Iron and lead high, MolyB (which is a wear additive) is very low. I would switch to DELO 15w40 dino oil for the next interval and run a sample on that.

Pete, go back to a dino oil and try a sample i bet your analysis comes back better.
Why? I am just not sold on the synthetic thing. I think that there are "other organic elements" that come from dino oil that just cannot be produced in the lab correctly. I mean, heck, it took hundreds of thousands of years to produce the crude that conventional oil is refined from, not just a few days/weeks/months in the lab blending man made compounds.
I cant repost my last report, but on a 230K engine(at time of sample) that has been run on nothing but Delo with a sample interval of 7387 miles BS advised to keep going. I did not do that and went ahead and changed, but my wear numbers were no where close to the universal avgs. my Moly number was 190, and my TBN was 8.3.
I know I am up on a soapbox, and am about to start a dino vs. syn debate/ oil wars, but I am only reporting my experiences and opinions. Check out BITOG for the explanation of Molyb. (flame suit on)

 

Kris, you are quite welcome.

I'm a big fan of the Schaeffer's stuff. Since I put it in my truck, it's been running better than ever, and I contribute it directly to the oil because that's the only thing that changed. Schaeffer's is known to clean out some of the oil buildup in the engine, and more importantly the injectors. The injectors work better, so you get more power.

Also, Schaeffer's is a high Moly content oil, so you get the benefits of it. If you've ever seen an demostration done using a Timken machine, you'd be amazed at how well a good quality moly can reduce friction. That reduced friction and protection from the moly will help the engine run better and have less wear in the long run. Here's the moly link: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly.html

For a little more info on what a Timken machine is, look here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm About 2/3 of the way down the page, you'll see a picture of the machine. Also, if you read the text above the first picture, it says, "I have not seen any oil company (except one) that will demonstrate how well their oil will hold up on this machine." Guess which company that is? Schaeffers actually sends one of these machines out with all of their sales reps to demonstrate the oil. I was at the Schaeffer plant last week and got to see a demonstration first hand. I was amazed at how well the oil worked on that machine compared to other oils, and I even got to put the pressure on the bearing to see for myself.

I will say one thing about UOA's if you switch to Schaeffers though. My first 2 or 3 didn't look much better than before, but that's because it was cleaning out all the crud from previous oils. I confirmed this with my rep to be sure. After my last UOA though, the crud is gone and the wear is better than it has ever been with any oil I've used.

If you don't want to try a full synthetic, they do make a semi-synthetic, the 7000. It's available in 15-40. I'm not about to get into the synthetic vs dino debate though. I like the performance of the 5-40 for easier starting, and the idea that the oil is flowing well when you initiall start the engine, even in warmer weather.

Kris, if you want to give it a shot, give me a call tomorrow and I'll give you the number of my rep. Actually, call me anyway, I've got one other thing to tell you. You still have my number?

 

Brandon, actually i was running Rotella 5w-40, i don't know why it didn't show it. Thanks Jeremy if i have a free min today i'll call, and thanks for the advice

 

Have any of you tested your oil with low miles, but with a lot of down time on it. I drove my F250 about 3 or 4k last year. I usually change my oil every six months on this truck, but just wondering if I need to.

 

I dont see any difference between oil sitting stagnant in an engine or in a bottle on the shelf. I may be wrong, but as long as it is not a few YEARS, it should be fine, as long as the engine gets up to full temperature when you do run it.

 

Kris have you addressed the fuel dilution issue? That alone can cause increased wear metals and not necessarily the oil type or brand

 

Well i got the engine hot the night previous, and then took my sample the next afternoon before starting it up. I drained about a 1/2 quart out and then took my sample, just in case i got a little bit of the "heavy" stuff that settles to the bottom of the pan. Maybe should do it hot next time?

 

I drive to the store and buy the oil and as soon as I get home drain and change taking the sample mid dump

 

black stone recommends taken samples just after a good long run and take sample half way through your dump...my sample wasnt all that great ether.. aluminum,chromium,copper, iron and lead was all high do to 1/8 inch of in and out play on my turbo wheel..i had to dump out my oil with less then 500 miles on it and changed it to make sure i got it all clean. .i will find out in 2500 miles when i send in another sample...

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but once the oil has been run, it's got some dirt in it that begins to break down the oil. Also, it will begin to absorb moisture once it's out of the sealed bottle. I think you're on the right track of changing it every 6 months with low mileage.

 

You and I are in the same boat, my truck only gets a work out on weekends. I change my oil filter and Rotella 15W-40 every June and December, which only has about 2-3K miles on the oil.