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You and I are in the same boat, my truck only gets a work out on weekends. I change my oil filter and Rotella 15W-40 every June and December, which only has about 2-3K miles on the oil.
It is a shame that your truck is so neglected, and has to see you leave the house each day in a gasser dodge company truck. I think I will come and park my truck under your carport and drive yours next week just so it can stretch its muscles.
Kris have you addressed the fuel dilution issue? That alone can cause increased wear metals and not necessarily the oil type or brand
Kris, from your EGT thread I remember that you pull hard at low rpm. Doesn't lugging the engine and blowing a lot of black smoke like in the pics you're always posting cause excess fuel to accumulate in the oil?
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
I dont see any difference between oil sitting stagnant in an engine or in a bottle on the shelf. I may be wrong, but as long as it is not a few YEARS, it should be fine, as long as the engine gets up to full temperature when you do run it.
Originally Posted by jtharvey
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but once the oil has been run, it's got some dirt in it that begins to break down the oil. Also, it will begin to absorb moisture once it's out of the sealed bottle. I think you're on the right track of changing it every 6 months with low mileage.
I would say more like the official Ford recommendation of every 3K or 3 months, whichever comes first! Check the above mentioned EGT thread here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/633697-want-to-lower-egts-3.html#post4974097 and read my posts concerning just how much water is in the ambient air. Every time you shut down a hot engine and let it cool overnight, the crankcase literally fills with condensation, and this water combines with combustion byproducts to form "acid rain". Heating the engine up the next day gets rid of most of the condensation from the previous night, but during the time delay of warming up to operating temp, the acid rain is doing its damage.
I suggest taking all the money spent on oil analysis, and applying it to a rigorous 3K or 3 month oil change interval as the best thing you can do for PSD longevity!
Last edited by ernesteugene; Aug 3, 2007 at 11:48 PM.
when ever we store our old cars ,boats and motor homes for the winter..we change the oil before it gets stored then again when we take them out in the spring..the gas/diesel will eat away at the oil even if it just sits for too long..it is worse for the oil to just sit in the motor then it is to run it for 5000 miles..the only way oil can stay good for long periods of time is when stored in its own container..
As pointed out earlier, you need to get some MOly in the oil, Schaeffers 9000 is stackede with Moly, I get readings in the thousands on the moly.
Your silicon is great as well, your air filter setup is doing just fine..I would try some 9000 and sample again, I dont believe you have a detrimental problem.
Just curious here. I change my oil about ever 5k. When I do, the oil is still looks & feels like new oil. My buddy's truck will have the oil coal black within a few miles of running it. He thinks there is something wrong with my truck since it doesn't do that- and its a diesel.
How does the oil look on your trucks when you change it?
I think some (maybe a lot) of it has to do with how hard you drive your truck. For example, mine is always black as coal when it comes out. But, as Kris can tell you, I typically run my truck harder than most. Running hard can make a little more blowby past the rings of combustion & soot that makes the oil more dirty. Maybe your buddy is heavier with the throttle than you are.
As mentioned several times, the black oil is from the soot resulting from the diesel combustion process. The soot enters the crankcase from blow by past the rings, and accumulates over time, and is supposed to be held in suspension by the oil. I change oil and filter every 3K like clockwork because I'm towing 80 % of the time. I just changed, and have only driven empty and easy for 100 miles, and the oil is still so clear I can hardly see it on the dipstick. However, as soon as I start towing it will start to darken, and definitely be considered black by 3K miles.
That's why I think plain old dino and 3K changes are better than extended intervals with syn oil. It's like a sink of dirty water after washing my hands, better to drain the sink more often than send a sample out to have someone tell me how dirty the water is. If there's something bad in there, I can't do anything about it anyway, except drain it out, and keep on trucking.
This is from the dirty oil thread here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/632889-dirty-oil-3.html?highlight=black+oil where I state the same recommendation for oil change intervals to maximize engine longevity that I've given on this thread! I wish someone would explain to me the logic of employing "oil analysis" to see how long you can go between oil changes without destroying your engine?
I wish someone would explain to me the logic of employing "oil analysis" to see how long you can go between oil changes without destroying your engine?
If I had to guess, I would say the $50-$100 oil changes. I change mine at 5k, sometimes sooner. I run Rotella Dino, as that is what I have had the best results with and I can get it anywhere.
A friend who runs big trucks installed oil bypass systems on all of them. One result after 25k showed the oil to still be in good condition. However, he did this not because he wanted to run the oil longer, but because a lot of the times they are so busy they just cannot stop and change oil until all the loads have been taken care of.
... If I had to guess, I would say the $50-$100 oil changes. I change mine at 5k, sometimes sooner. I run Rotella Dino, as that is what I have had the best results with and I can get it anywhere ...
At $8.88 per 1 gal jugs for Rotella Dino at Wal-Mart X4=35.52 + filter, so lets go with the low end $50 number you give. If you change every 3K as I suggest, that's 1.67 cents per mile for oil. At 15 mpg and diesel at say $3 per gal, that's 20 cents per mile for diesel! Therefore, if you change every 3K vs NEVER changing your oil, you're only adding 8.35% to your driving cost!
So you're telling me it's LOGICAL to crawl under your truck to collect oil samples (how many times between actual changes?) and pay (how much?) to have them analyzed, just to save at most a couple of percent (if that much when you compare the cost of syn vs dino) on your routine driving cost, and all the while you're putting the longevity of your PSD at risk?
You can get free oil analysis with Schaeffer and you can buy a vampire pump that will stick tube down you dipsick hole to pull the oil so that it can be collected. In other words free and little labor.
For me its not so much of a cost factor, it's peace of mind knowing exactly what's going on inside my engine. The extended oil drain intervals is just a bonus. Analyze that.
That would be my only reason to get a UOA done. Just to see what's going on. Maybe once a year. I wont run the oil longer than 5k though. that is for dang sure.
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