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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 03:43 PM
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track bar bolt

I just had to cut my track bar bolt in half to get it out. It still fit very tight, I'm replacing the bushings though. Can anyone tell me where to get a new bolt for it?
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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Well that all depends. Front or rear trac-bar? I'll assume the front.

Was the old bolt really a Stud, or was it a Bolt? The studs (78-79 I think) are spendy but the sponsors have em. I got mine at NAPA. bout $75. And some of us have them lying around, and might part with em for cheap .

My 76 had a bolt and nut. When I replaced mine it was a monster of a bolt. I went to Pacific Steel and they had 'em on the showroom floor. Take you're old one with you.

Cost me about $8 for the bolt washer and Nyloc Nut.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 12:58 PM
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I got one at a local Fastenal store. I think they are a franchise and they have all kinds of fasteners in stock. I got a grade 8 with a nyloc. Mine, a 79, has the bolt through a boss which is part of the front axle housing. The graveyard sells a kit that allows you to drill a tapered hole and put in a tapered bolt to repair ones that are worn, which mine was not.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 04:19 PM
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Yeah, but buying the tapered reamer costs as much as the stud.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2007 | 01:12 PM
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OK so I got the monster bolt as I said and when I put it in the hole low and behold there was play. I guess the old one had simply froze with rust and that's why I though it would be good with a new bolt. Would it be a problem if I welded the bolt in the boss on the axle? Then I would in effect have a stud. If I wver had to take it apart for any reason I sould just get out the old cutting wheel on my grinder like I did to get the old bolt off.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2007 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by czaroc
Well that all depends. Front or rear trac-bar? I'll assume the front. My 76 had a bolt and nut. When I replaced mine it was a monster of a bolt. I went to Pacific Steel and they had 'em on the showroom floor. Take you're old one with you. Cost me about $8 for the bolt washer and Nyloc Nut.
58605-S2 .. Track Bar Bolt ~ 1976/79 ~ 9/16"-12 x 3 1/2"
 
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Old Aug 3, 2007 | 02:08 PM
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NO the heat affected area would make it too weak..and if it broke your screwed
 
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Old Aug 3, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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Well the bolt I took out of mine is 3/4" by 4 1/2 long. How much play is allowable in this bolt? It's not like it's swimming in there but there is some side to side movement.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2007 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by czaroc
Well that all depends. Front or rear trac-bar? I'll assume the front.
Where have you seen a rear trac-bar? Other than an aftermarket 4 link setup I don't recall a rear trac-bar, maybe I'm missing something......

Originally Posted by tastyklair
Well the bolt I took out of mine is 3/4" by 4 1/2 long. How much play is allowable in this bolt? It's not like it's swimming in there but there is some side to side movement.
Originally it is a tight fit. If you have play in there you will feel that going down the road. The trac-bar is what locates the axle and keeps it in place. A worn out hole like that could lead to the infamous death wobble as well. Here's a simple way to look at it.

Reamer-------36 bucks

Tapered bolt---- 62 bucks

Your life-----Priceless
 
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Old Aug 3, 2007 | 05:34 PM
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I want to echo the last post - fix it right - your life is worth it. I had a nut come off a replacement bolt that was put on - not a castle nut like factory and it caused the axle to shift, ripped the steering box off the frame and could have killed me. I was lucky and didn't even hit anything, but like I said I was very lucky - you end up with no control of the vehicle at all and at best a whole lot of work to fix everything.

Good luck.
 
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