lol no, figured it was in with the quick connect! will try it

 

It may be in the wiring plug, I am not sure myself.

 

tried using gator clips to ground the tank, is a no dice, oh well I called all the parts stores today, will cost between $125-$175 for a new pump. $125 at O'riely's and $175 at Napa.

 

Any update yet?

 

There is a relay from the computer that runs the fuel pump.

You might want to pull your starter and check to see how much water it has inside it. Same for all other motors. Just because they are seemingly working, doesent mean that they will work for long. Your window motors are probably sealed up good. Check out the switches, and see if there is a relay feeding the window motors. Sometimes, the circuit breaker for the windows gets dirt inside it from the water and dies.

After it all gets pressure washed, you might let it sit out in the sun for a few days before you start putting things back together. Open up the dash area so that air can get in there and help dry things out. Your speedometer might be ruined. Good time to check eBone and see whats available.

 

The fuel tanks do not have to be grounded. The ground wire for the fuel pumps is grounded at the LH front of engine compartment (G100), on upper radiator support.

Ground pin #6 at the DLC (test connector) with the key on and the fuel pump relay should make (click) and the selected pump should run.

If not, check for power at the Inertia Switch and try pushing the reset button on top of it.

If you have power on both connectors at the Inertia Switch check for power at the selector switch and then the plug at the tank.

If when grounding pin #6 the pumps run, then you may have a PCM computer problem.

You need to do this testing with a test light to save time. The DVM will make you chase your tail all day long as it does not load the circuit and will lie to you.

I would not think there would be anything wrong with the fuel pumps.

Link to fuel pump and fuel sender ground:
LH front of engine compartment, on upper radiator support (F7)



Link to the DLC (test connector).
Pin #6 = circuit #926 (LB/O), Fuel Pump Relay Ground.



Link to location of the DLC (testconnector), Diagnostic Selftest Plugs in the diagram.



Link to electrical wiring.



Link to inertia switch in the RH (passenger side) kick panel.

 

Yep. 2 of the wires are grounds. One for the sender, one for the pump.

I'll bet this is a situation where a $10 test light may be better than a $250 Fluke meter. High resistance in the FP relay contacts or wiring will still show 12volts on the Fluke because it doesn't load the circuit down. The test lamp will load the circuit down and not light.
Since you have the fuel sender out, check the voltage with the pump connected. If it's still 12V, the pump is bad, If it's low or 0V look upstream, toward the relay.

Have you checked the fuel pump inertia switch? It may have tripped. Also, It is a funky reed type switch inside, If it got full of water and mud, it may not make contact. You can jumper it out to test it.

OK, subford beat me to it.

 

Sorry about the update, have taken on a second job and dont have much time for anything for now, Will prolly get back on it in a week or two.

Or if I dont find time to fix it will just send it down the road.

 

Subford, great post!