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I'm guessing a HX35 or similar?
The HX35 is a little too small for our engines, but will work. It'll provide a strong, torquey low end, but limit HP to around 204 or so at the wheels.
You can always do it, and then upgrade to a bigger one once you are ready.
I think it is an HX35. I have a bigger turbo for my Detroit 8V92, but I have the whole 8V92 engine to bolt that big Garrett too.
If youre into fabbing, a turbo off a 7.3 or 6.0 stroke would be better suited, HX40 from an 8.3, or a s362 from a C7. You can buy a new S300 turbo for like $650 though
If youre into fabbing, a turbo off a 7.3 or 6.0 stroke would be better suited, HX40 from an 8.3, or a s362 from a C7. You can buy a new S300 turbo for like $650 though
I'm trying to build from what I have. Ol Lady won't let me drop that kinda coin on a work truck. Next question would be....Would a turbo from an 8V92 Detroit be too big. Its gonna be awhile before I get around to building the Detroit, possibly years. So, I'm considering using that turbo since its fairly new
If youre into fabbing, a turbo off a 7.3 or 6.0 stroke would be better suited, HX40 from an 8.3, or a s362 from a C7. You can buy a new S300 turbo for like $650 though
I'm trying to build from what I have. Ol Lady won't let me drop that kinda coin on a work truck. Next question would be....Would a turbo from an 8V92 Detroit be too big. Its gonna be awhile before I get around to building the Detroit, possibly years. So, I'm considering using that turbo since its fairly new
I been seeing common boost pressures on Silver 92s 22-26 psi at full throttle uphill
Going to guess its way too big unless it has twins like the E9 and a couple other big monsters. Any measurements of the wheels or housings? You can get a used 7.3 powerstroke turbo for like 150 bucks on craigslist. Has some goofy flanges and fittings, but you can make an exhaust brake out of the EPBV. Almost went with one myself for that reason.
Going to guess its way too big unless it has twins like the E9 and a couple other big monsters. Any measurements of the wheels or housings? You can get a used 7.3 powerstroke turbo for like 150 bucks on craigslist. Has some goofy flanges and fittings, but you can make an exhaust brake out of the EPBV. Almost went with one myself for that reason.
Inducer wheel is 3", compressor outlet is 2.5"
3" is that the inducer or the exducer? If the turbine outlet is 2.5", the exducer is roughly that which could be about the right size. Any idea on how big the housing is? Inside or outside one of the scrolls should be a number.
3" is that the inducer or the exducer? If the turbine outlet is 2.5", the exducer is roughly that which could be about the right size. Any idea on how big the housing is? Inside or outside one of the scrolls should be a number.
turbine wheel is 3 3/4". Compressor housing is 9" approximately
turbine wheel is 3 3/4". Compressor housing is 9" approximately
Im not going with the big Detroit turbo. I don't see the need. This truck has had some pump and injector mods. I'm going to use the 6bt turbo. I don't need stupid power. After all, its a work truck.
cold air intake. Make your own if you cannot buy and some 4" hot air pipe elbows and pipe will work wonders when extended to front on engine bay. Should cost about $50.00
have your local exhaust dealer fit a twin 3" system and straight thru muffers from stock manifiolds. Should cost about $300
add an electric fuel pump and raycor filter to fuel line system so you have the standard mechanical pump plus an electric pump delivering adequate fuel supply to injector pump. Cost about $50
New paper air filter. Should cost about $65
remove and close off fuel return line from standard fuel filter for better starting. A plug can be purchased to fit fuel line return orifice in filter housing. Should cost about $2.50
Now you will flow air through the engine and match that increased flow to a adequate fuel supply from the dual pumps.
Use a cetane fuel booster and injector pump lubricator like Powerkleen at 1 ozs per gallon
Turn up the injector pump screw by about an eight of a turn and you will have the best performance that you can get from the lowest dollar.
These engines were strangled for air when they were released and just by providing adequate air flow and fuel you will gain about 20 to 25 hp and if the engine is in reasonable condition you should be able to use that increase in power..
when you say dual 3” are you day run true dual exhaust from the header?
cold air intake. Make your own if you cannot buy and some 4" hot air pipe elbows and pipe will work wonders when extended to front on engine bay. Should cost about $50.00
have your local exhaust dealer fit a twin 3" system and straight thru muffers from stock manifiolds. Should cost about $300
add an electric fuel pump and raycor filter to fuel line system so you have the standard mechanical pump plus an electric pump delivering adequate fuel supply to injector pump. Cost about $50
New paper air filter. Should cost about $65
remove and close off fuel return line from standard fuel filter for better starting. A plug can be purchased to fit fuel line return orifice in filter housing. Should cost about $2.50
Now you will flow air through the engine and match that increased flow to a adequate fuel supply from the dual pumps.
Use a cetane fuel booster and injector pump lubricator like Powerkleen at 1 ozs per gallon
Turn up the injector pump screw by about an eight of a turn and you will have the best performance that you can get from the lowest dollar.
These engines were strangled for air when they were released and just by providing adequate air flow and fuel you will gain about 20 to 25 hp and if the engine is in reasonable condition you should be able to use that increase in power..
When you say to disconnect the return fuel line from the filter then plug the hole in the filter housing, where do you run the line that was going into the filter? And..
When you said to add an electronic fuel pump and racor filter in addition to the mechanical pump, does the new pump and filter get installed before or after the mechanical fuel pump, and before or after the existing fuel filter?
When you say to disconnect the return fuel line from the filter then plug the hole in the filter housing, where do you run the line that was going into the filter? And..
When you said to add an electronic fuel pump and racor filter in addition to the mechanical pump, does the new pump and filter get installed before or after the mechanical fuel pump, and before or after the existing fuel filter?
JWAIDI, do you realize this post is 5 months and 15 years old?
It`s been 9 months and 14 years that "netmaker" was last active.
You should start your own thread and ask these questions.
You will get current answers for people that are active on the Forum.
The info in the old thread is good, but it is like going to a Cemetary and asking for advice
from people long gone.
Reading through the post, do not run a mechanical pump with an electric pump.
One or the other.
The trucks did come with a cold air intake from the factory. Follow the plastic tube from
the air filter housing.
If you want to gain more HP, add a Turbo, IP that puts out more fuel as well as matched
Injectors and a few other goodies.
when i disconnected the return line to filter head, i put a brass pipe plug in the filter head, and a bolt in the line with a hose clamp to seal it. about two years later when replacing return lines and caps i eliminated the line off #1 injector.
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