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I just got a car that has a locked motor, but it is locked from not running for about 4 years. Does anyone think I could put something in the cyl. to free it up. If so what would be good for this job. I am sure I will have to rebuild, but I would like to free it before I remove it from the car. Thanks for any help..
I'm not sure on this subject, as I've never dealt with it before, but you might try some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders. If you are planning on a rebuild anyway, and getting the block acid-washed, you could try Drano, that ought to eat up any deposits...But you would also have to replace the rings, and possibly pistons; for sure the rod bearings...
-Andrew
PS, I assume no responsibility for damages caused by following my reccomendations.
Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!
Pull all the plugs and squirt some of your favorite penatrating oil (WD-40, Liquid Wrench) in all the cylinders. Every once in a while try rotating the engine. My Grandpa did this on a tractor that was locked up from sitting with the cylinder off, and it worked. It may take a while depending on how badly it's locked up.
>I just got a car that
>has a locked motor, but
>it is locked from not
>running for about 4 years.
> Does anyone think I
>could put something in the
>cyl. to free it up.
> If so what would
>be good for this job.
> I am sure I
>will have to rebuild, but
>I would like to free
>it before I remove it
>from the car. Thanks
>for any help..
>
>
>Possum
i bought a 54 ford f100 in 1983 that had not run for 20 or so years. it was also locked upand it had mice living in some of the intake runners. i got all of the debris out of the intake as icould and flushed the engine with kerosene. i poured it into the spark plug holes and down the carb. i let it sit for a couple of days, each day trying to move rotate engine with large breaker bar on crank nut.
it broke loose aftr 3 days. i ran it for about ten minutes, changed the oil and drove it a little bit to check it out.. it smoked a bit for a day or two, then i guess the rings loosened up and it ran fine. i sold it to a guy when i took it out to put in 69 351.
The penetrating oil that I found works best is called PB Blaster. I found it at Napa one day and decided to try it, and it is great. Should eat away minor rust. Make sure you're patient with this! You'll get it!
I agree the PB Blaster TM RULES!!!!! I have used it for all sorts of rusted things. I am slowly doing my 302. I gave the wrecked truck to a friend for the motor and they had someone else pull the motor and it sat. With all the spray from the broken radiator it sucked it down the carb and the rear three or four cylinders are rusted. They gave the motor back This motor had been rebuilt with only 5,000 miles on it so I am trying to save as much as I can. I just keep going out and spraying the PB down the intake runners every week or so. I will start the spark plug holes this week. I figured I should follow the route of the coolant to get all the surfaces it contacted. Does this sound like a good strategy. The engine will eventually be dissassembled and some performance work done, but I am trying to save all the integrity that I can.
Chris
1978 F150 SC 351 C6 $1000
Soon to be Bronc owner!!
1969 Buick LeSabre 400
1941 Farmall "A"
Hi, sounds like a plan to me, that P B BLASTER is mean S%#&*!!! I have used it on a couple of projects that someone else started and gave up on such as a broken bolt in an aluminum intake it is a factory ford for my 67 mustang I couldn't give up on it!!! the other guy did he said it wasn't worth it and gave it to me. I soaked it for a couple of days put the vise grips on it worked it back and forth a couple of times and now it's on my 67 mustang coupe and working fine. JOHN (FATFORTY)
diesel fuel also works very well ive used it several times on different engines that have sat for as little as a week or as long as 3 yrs just fill the cylinders up until it runs out the spark plug holes and leave it set a few days
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I like diesel or kerosene. It helps if you have the heads off and let it sit for several days to really work into the cylinders.
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With all the changes I would have to make to put this motor in my 351M/C6 78, I have plenty of time to gently free her up. A hurry would be the worst thing for it now.......
I am just wondering how many internal parts I can salvage afterwards.
If I could get this thing running good again, I might make the swap, but at this point a bolt in would be much better.......
I think I will use some kero and go ahead and pull the heads off and get a good look at things....
Thanks for the tips.
Chris
1978 F150 SC 351 C6 $1000
Soon to be Bronc owner!!
1969 Buick LeSabre 400
1941 Farmall "A"
Possum; Go to your local Boat dealer and get a can of Quicksilver storage seal. fill up the cylinders with it and let stand for a week or two.If freed up locked up outboard motor with the same process.Give it a try,it only cost about 7 bucks a can. good luck Redeye.