I know everybody says you should use real paint to do a base coat, but unfortunely i dont have a compressor and my landlady would have a fit if she seen me doing that on her property. So i got anxious and bought a few cans of the duplicolor filler primer, metallic blue, and clearcoat. i figured i would test this on my hood considering it was a hood from a diff truck. The primer actually impressed me it helped with alot of sand scratches and so forth, Unfortunely the basecoat im not to happy with, maybe im doing it wrong or something. Its got dark blotches throughout it. i followed directions and did even length sprays back and forth , i have no runs, is it possible that those are low spots or something , i didnt sand the primer and i know your suppose to with the proffesional stuff, but the can said you didnt have to. I didnt apply anymore coats after i noticed it blotching but maybe thats all it needs. i sanded the hood prior to priming so i know i did everything right up to that point.Or maybe its just because its metallic blue and its not a good coat paint. This stuff is expensive but im doing it panel by panel so 20-30$ a paycheck keeps the old lady from bitching at me to bad. If anybody has any suggestions on how to work these out please let me know?

 

I used rustoleum, not duplicolor, but they are both spray paint. I took it to bare metal, and did several light coats of gray auto primer. I sanded it with 600 grit to make it smooth before paint. The paint also took about 3 light coats to cover. I then sanded it with 600 before clearcoat. The clearcoat is (finally) getting wetsanded, and looks good.

Maybe you tried to put too much on? Maybe the old paint is messing it up? Maybe sanding between coats would have helped?

Try and post up a picture to show what went wrong.

 

Post some pics please. I was actually thinking about doing the same thing. So I am very curious how it came out?

 

The blotches are just a consistancy problem. Im guessing along with the blotches you have some railroad tracks on that hood as well. Low spots should not change the color of non gloss base coat. Practice on some junk first to get your consistancy down pat. Painting something as large as a hood is hard with a spray can because of its small spray pattern. With that metallic you need to spray it in light misty coats from about a foot away. If you put it on too wet the metallic will float around and not spread out evenly like it should. With basecoat it should go on just slightly wet but not as wet as clear. It should take you about 3-4 light coats with a spray can. The clear should go on in 2 wet coats from about 6 inches away. With both base and clear, overlap 50% each pass and every other coat you should switch directions to eliminate railroad tracks.

 

you should sand primer...but you do not sand in between metallic coats...you can only color sand the clear once it's on. what an undertaking!!!!!!!!!

 

Silly question here... Are there any companies that sell spray/touch up paint that matches older truck colors (I have a 1970)? I need to touch up the interior to the original aqua-reef color.

 

You can take a paint chip or the color code to a place that mixes paint. They can match it as best as they can and put it in a spray can.

 

Thanks MRL. That might be the best solution for touching up the interior of my cab.

 

I used Dupli-color wheel paint that also had the metalic finish. You have to shake the heck out of the can before starting and all the while when spraying it. The metal flake stuff they use doesnt stay mixed very well. The first wheel I painted I had to remove the paint with gas and start over. Multiple light coats while shaking the can every few seconds or your going to get blotches and or a rough finish. If I was going to do it again Id forgo the metal flake in the paint and try a plain solid color. I'm not impressed with there canned spray paint so far, the high gloss black acrylic enamal wasn't glossy at all more like flat black.

B

 

Maybe you sprayed the regular gloss when it was too hot? Still, to make any gloss spray really get glossy, spray gloss clear over it. The difference is night and day.

 

Ditto...

You need to have a very smooth surface to lay the paint on & DON"T sand it before the clear... 600 grit wet should do....(try not to sand through the primer)

If you take your time ,,(light coats)...Tack it & clear it ...You might be fine....

On the clear app, you will need to keep the entire panel wet the entire coat....

 

True, and with spray, that is near to impossible. If you do several coats, though, and wetsand it can look respectable. Still, the clear isn't nice like automotive clear. It really sucks to work with.

 

You can get DuPont Chromabase and Centari automotive paint in spray cans. It costs more than Duplicolor, but it goes on better, and they do a decent color match to factory colors...

Still no substitute for doing it all at once in a booth, but this stuff does pretty good for a spray can. I tried a whole panel once with it just to see, and you can maintain a wet edge with it fairly well and get an okay finish..

http://www.touchupspraypaint.com/pro...4123b9ee2b386b