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It's probably what made it break but usually it doesn't...
...I recently installed an adjustable proportioning valve to help compensate for my lift kit and at the same time I can take about 50% of the braking out of the rear. The first burnout with it and I broke.
Luckily I didn't break anything else...and I was able to get it home without a tow. (still handy to have 4wd!).
Thought I had you a shaft till I read the 5 SD. I got same truck with e4od. I'm parting.
I had new tube put on one shaft I did .2 shafts I had and made one. Cost me $100 balanced.
I had the rear UV go out on my 89 F250 7.5/460 while towing a trailer/tractor. Talk about a loud bang! I hadn't had the truck too long at this point. Turns out the old UJ pins had been sheering off for quite awhile. I guess the pins finally decided to give (slip) out of the transfer case yoke. No damage to the transfer case thankfully, just a ripped-out speedo cable.
Anyway, I got my replacement from Bronco Graveyard since my local junk yards had none. I had to send the first two back though since the lengths were wrong. (I measured the old one while in the truck-level installed position). They were good about the returns and I got the one I needed. Cost was $185 if my truck maintenance log is accurate.
Good luck.
Last edited by grizz3000; Jul 17, 2007 at 11:42 PM.
It's probably what made it break but usually it doesn't...
Actually, it usually does, and it doesn't have to hop very hard. Might be time for some type of traction bar to keep the rear end from binding up like that.
Actually, it usually does, and it doesn't have to hop very hard. Might be time for some type of traction bar to keep the rear end from binding up like that.
...Your right but I didn't mean it in that way....I meant that my truck usually doesn't hop. I have superlift true-trac traction bars.
Originally Posted by lostin90s
Thought I had you a shaft till I read the 5 SD. I got same truck with e4od. I'm parting.
I had new tube put on one shaft I did .2 shafts I had and made one. Cost me $100 balanced.
How long is it? Mine was about 58" from u-joint to u-joint.
I don't but superlift's website probably has a picture...
...but to be honest, I don't care for them that much. They bolt on top of the rear leaf springs and to a bracket you install on the outside of the framerail. The bar between them mounts in an elongated hole that allows for movement....which equals axlewrap.
They will allow the truck to hop, but it will keep it to a minimum.
Only a real traction bar set will eliminate it....these were about $200 or so.
The Rancho torque arms bars work very well on mine and my brother was looking for something similar for his truck. They mount to the frame and to the bottom of the axle where the leaf spring bolts are. My brother is looking for a similar set up but not to the tune of $350+.
If I were to do it right, i'd weld a bracket on the axle tube and use flex joints on either end with as little as possible hanging below the axle tube.
I saw a nice set on a jeep wrangler as part of a fabtech lift kit.
Anybody have any good links or contacts for a rear driveshaft for a 1991 F150 302 V8?
I am actually thinking someone HAS to make an aluminum shaft no?????
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