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good choice on the carter
have you changed cams? if its still the stock cam and will stay that way, id put an edelbrock performer intake in... if its anything more than a stock cam try the edelbrock peformer rpm air gap as for headers, i think youd have to have some custom made, i dont think anyone has shelf headers for a 1960 with a 460
Intakes you can find (I run a stealth also) but headers are another thing. Your not going to find an off the shelf header to fit your combo. I bought a set for a later model and cut the tubes off wherever they where going to hit something. (ie steering box) Bought some mandril bent tubing from Summit and routed around the box. Making a few mods to a header is alot easier than making a whole set. There's a picture in my gallery. Good luck!
So I found the number on my 1971 Lincoln 460 and it is D3VE-A2A!
So it is a 1973 Lincoln engine (or later?) and not the 1971 I was told.
So what has this cost me as far as power?
What can I do (other than beat the ***** out of the guy) to improve my engine?
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What is involved in yanking off the EGR and other polution crap?
Can I pull it off completely? I thought I could.
The EGR is just a small passageway between the exhaust and intake manifold to allow a metered amount of exhaust to flow back into the engine. I understand the valve is closed while the engine is cold and at idle and only open once the engine has warmed up and is running at part-throttle. Is there a way to way to disconnect it without causing the NOX emissions to raise and detonation/knock to occur? Is it just a simple tune up after the EGR is removed?
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So I found the number on my 1971 Lincoln 460 and it is D3VE-A2A!
So it is a 1973 Lincoln engine (or later?) and not the 1971 I was told.
You found D3VE-A2A on the heads, right? The block should be D1VE-6015-AB. This block was used 1971/79 on all cars and trucks. Someone may have just changed the heads. Or the engine may be from 1973 thru 1979 (except CA...no 460's were used in passenger cars after 1978 because of emissions restrictions), as the same block was used.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jul 25, 2007 at 05:11 PM.
swap timing chains to an aftermarket chain or a factory one from before 1972, if a rebuild is in the budget you could go a stroker kit (521 or 545 ci- for the d1ve block id go 521) for not that much more than a good stock rebuild. rebuild the heads and replace the cam, get an intake to match the cam, all sorts of things could be done... would need a budget and goals to give a cam and intake recommendation though.
swap timing chains to an aftermarket chain or a factory one from before 1972, if a rebuild is in the budget you could go a stroker kit (521 or 545 ci- for the d1ve block id go 521) for not that much more than a good stock rebuild. rebuild the heads and replace the cam, get an intake to match the cam, all sorts of things could be done... would need a budget and goals to give a cam and intake recommendation though.
After all this my budget is nothing!
I need to restore my faith in this engine with out destroying my bank account!
well... the timing set is pretty easy to change and will be your best "bang for the buck" at about 75 dollars, and will give you a noticeable power increase... next would be pulling the heads off and porting the exhaust a little with a die grinder. www.reincarnation-automotive.com has full porting instructions for a 25 dollar lifetime membership. shows you where to grind and not to grind. i put this second because the tools to do this cost about 80 dollars. next would be headers- which youll need to fit the engine in properly. i wouldnt bother changing the intake without changing the cam, and i wouldnt change the cam without the valvetrane to match.