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Tokk the Ex in to have a vibration looked at. I have an 03 lifted 4inches and running 35x 13 x 18. Have had that setup for about 20,000 miles with no problem. Recently developed a bad vibration under acceleration between 50 and 60 mph. Took to the dealer they said both ujoints are shot. Total price to replace is 390. Does this sound right, should i do something else alond witht the ujoint, any opinions? Some good things though, dealer is handling a lot of warranty work that i did not know about, as well as replacing a/c control panel at no charge.
You can do this yourself for a mere $60 in parts. They are 1410 u-joints. You need a mini sledge and a couple blocks of wood. You pull the inner clips, drive each flange off and then the u-jonts out and then reinstall.
If you've wasted both of them already, you will again. I go through mine every 10-15K and just replace em. Its cheap insurance.
mopnup ..... may want to call this guy. He has some info on lifted Ex's and Superduty's. There is a flange that was made wrong from the factory that should be replaced. Just an FYI .... LINKY
Joints are $60 each for a diesel / V10 and $40 each for the V8
SO that would be $120 parts + labor and the parts are discount price.
So consider 2 hrs labor and $120 parts. $140 labor + $150 list for parts is $290
Not really too far off but probably a little high though not excessively.
Im sure the book offers around 2 hours, but any competent mechanic with a lift and shop should have no problem doing it in under an hour. Even if the joints are being a pain to get out. The way i look at it is, 1 hour of work + 120 bux in parts doesnt = $390 in my eyes? Heck at that price you are paying 3 hours labor @ 90 an hour. I guess this is why i do my own work and keep saying i should open my own shop that does these basic repairs. Hummm...
On another note, where do you get $60 for the u-joint? I was just looking at autozone (i know inferior parts but im using it to get a general idea) and they have rear shaft u-joints listed for 13 bux, and thats there slightly nicer part. I cant see a dana piece selling for more then high 20s each? Just wondering who quoted you 60 a pop! Heck you may as well pony up for some CTM's you will never have to worry about breaking if your gonna throw away $ for a u-joint like that!
On another note, where do you get $60 for the u-joint? I was just looking at autozone (i know inferior parts but im using it to get a general idea) and they have rear shaft u-joints listed for 13 bux, and thats there slightly nicer part.
Check for Genuine Ford replacement parts. vs inferior parts for pricing
No argument on how low a price you can find. But you must consider shops have to stay in business by paying salaries,, lights,, rent,, cost of buying a lift etc. Just go in business and find out what the overhead cost are..
I am not justifying is $390 the right price or not, just pointing out what cost are behind the scenes to keep a shop going.
I also do my own work but I use Factory parts in all my cars when available and do 95% of the work myself to include engine and tranny rebuild.
Ive found paying dealer costs (evern discounted dealer cost) for some items to be shooting yourself in the foot. Im sure i could pick up a dana/spicer u-joint thats every bit as good as the ford one if not better for half the cost.
Im not one to cry about paying for quality, but a dealer priced u-joint is flat out a ripoff. I usually tend to lean towards aftermarket upgrade parts anyway, and for the "list" price your not far off from a MUCH more superior CTM u-joint.
Building a 1000 flywheel HP blown/nitrous fed high 8's LS1 in my garage right now, so i have a lil credibility also.
Ive found paying dealer costs (evern discounted dealer cost) for some items to be shooting yourself in the foot. Im sure i could pick up a dana/spicer u-joint thats every bit as good as the ford one if not better for half the cost.
Im not one to cry about paying for quality, but a dealer priced u-joint is flat out a ripoff. I usually tend to lean towards aftermarket upgrade parts anyway, and for the "list" price your not far off from a MUCH more superior CTM u-joint.
Building a 1000 flywheel HP blown/nitrous fed high 8's LS1 in my garage right now, so i have a lil credibility also.
Well thanks for the help. Ended up taking my ex elsewhere for the repair. Had the ujoints replaced and corrected the angles for less than the dealer wanted for just the ujoint. Knew i was in trouble when i called back and they said, oh you were due for an oil change so we did that. I said thanks I love free oil changes But thanks for the help, for those of us that are not mechanics, it helps to come here and get opinions.