VB Spring Conversion Report
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,142
Likes: 2
From: Denver, CO
I'm glad I re-read this post. I lifted my F250 (and then sold it) and have the springs sitting around for this swap. I would have reused the X blocks, instead of ordering the 3.5" blocks. Probably wouldn't have been happy with that setup.
Do you recall the prices for the blocks and u-bolts? If you don't remember off the top of your head I'll just give Ford a call.
Do you recall the prices for the blocks and u-bolts? If you don't remember off the top of your head I'll just give Ford a call.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 236
Likes: 1
If I remember, the u bolts are ABOUT $16each, nut sold seperate at ABOUT $2 each. I got the blocks used with the springs but I guess they are about $25 each or more. If you use the Ex blocks you will have a tail dragger.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Originally Posted by Monsta
Great post, BTW. I'm confident that there will be many who will really benefit from it. 
Rep points to you.
Rep points to you.When I did this swap last year, and posted the part numbers I used, a few people responded in the thread asking for the part numbers for the replacement U-bolts. I even had a few PM's asking for the part numbers. Unfortunately, because I reused the front U-bolts and got some F250 4x4 take-offs from a 4x4 shop for the rears, I was unable to provide those part numbers.
Good job, Bucky!
It should be noted, the part numbers listed for the rear blocks are for the tapered blocks, not the squared 3.5" blocks.
If you're wondering why you should use a tapered block and not a squared off block, well, I don't know!! LOL!
All I can say is, when I did all my studying and searching before tackling the spring swap, the people who had previously done the swap and posted about it, used the tapered block and it worked well for them.
Stewart
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Originally Posted by Bodaddio
Thanks for listing all that. My big nosey self is wondering what this swap set you back. About.
Cheers,
Shawn
Cheers,
Shawn
Front V code springs: Part #2C3Z-5310-HA (two)
Rear B code springs: Part #3C3Z-5560-CB (two)
Left side 3.5" tapered block: Part #F81Z-5598-FA (one)
Right side 3.5" tapered block Part #F81Z-5598-GA (one)
Cost me a total of $639.10, including tax, brand new from the dealership.
Please note my list does not include the U-bolts or U-bolt nuts like Bucky's list.
Stewart
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 84
From: Wake Forest, NC
If you purchase the ubolts aftermarket from a spring shop they are usually 8-10 bucks a piece and come with nuts and washers. I did this when swapping to factory rear springs and F350 blocks on my 02 F250.
Why to factory springs you ask?
When I purchased the truck it had 7 leaf aftermarket springs in the back and 3 leaf springs in the front. When it was hit in the back one side was snapped off, and the other was bent. It would have cost twice as much to have the 7 leafs remade, than buying the original springs to the truck. I didn't need the extra capacity anyway. I had figured that the aftermarket springs had raised the height of the truck and ordered longer ubolts initially. They had enough threads to use the f250 blocks, and after things settled down, I realized that the rear was too low, and installed the taller blocks.
Why to factory springs you ask?
When I purchased the truck it had 7 leaf aftermarket springs in the back and 3 leaf springs in the front. When it was hit in the back one side was snapped off, and the other was bent. It would have cost twice as much to have the 7 leafs remade, than buying the original springs to the truck. I didn't need the extra capacity anyway. I had figured that the aftermarket springs had raised the height of the truck and ordered longer ubolts initially. They had enough threads to use the f250 blocks, and after things settled down, I realized that the rear was too low, and installed the taller blocks.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 236
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by S_Harvey
Definitely!
If you're wondering why you should use a tapered block and not a squared off block, well, I don't know!! LOL!
Stewart
If you're wondering why you should use a tapered block and not a squared off block, well, I don't know!! LOL!
Stewart
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Originally Posted by bucky440
The tapered blocks adjust the rear pinion angle to compensate for the change in axle position to keep the u joints and drive shaft "happy".
Stewart
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 84
From: Wake Forest, NC
Originally Posted by S_Harvey
I thought of that too, but then I wondered, if the squared block came from a factory 4x4 setup (which it did) then could the pinion angle be that different on the Ex when compared to the F250/350?
Stewart
Stewart
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Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Originally Posted by bjis
do you think this app. will be ok on a Ex that you tow with...
Yes, it's great for towing. And in fact, if you ask me, it should be done before you hook a trailer up to the Ex. I did the swap before getting my 4-horse bumper pull and my 31' travel trailer.
Ford screwed the pooch when they decided to put different springs on the Ex, instead of the same ones they put on the F250 SuperDuty's.
Stewart
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