K/N air filter
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Elder User
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K/N air filter
Just bought the truck and this air filter was already on there. I have been advised to get rid of it. I thought K/N was the king of air fliters? Also, should I get the plastic cover that goes in the top middle of the engine? The previous owner said a Ford tech guy told him to just leave it off. From the pic tell me what else you may see wrong or in need of repairing. Thanks!
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Lakewood, Washington
From all I've read and heard is that to stay away from a K&N air filter (as well as Fram oil filters). I run an AFE system on my truck and have no problems with it. The stock filter was hard to ensure that it had a good seal between the lid and bowl. I know you will get other replys on this subject and there are many better systems out there that do a better job of filtration than the K&N or the stock set up. Diesels are more sensitive to dusting than gas engines so it is that much more important. You can look at your turbo blades for signs of dusting by wear marks on the leading edges. A lot of guys on this forum run the Tymar and there are also some good and cheap DIY systems.
Don't worry about the black cover lid. Mine came off day 1 and now I run a Bean's fuel system so I couldn't put it back on there if I wanted to. It also eliminates 1 step when working in that area.
Don't worry about the black cover lid. Mine came off day 1 and now I run a Bean's fuel system so I couldn't put it back on there if I wanted to. It also eliminates 1 step when working in that area.
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Originally Posted by echo95
From all I've read and heard is that to stay away from a K&N air filter (as well as Fram oil filters). I run an AFE system on my truck and have no problems with it. The stock filter was hard to ensure that it had a good seal between the lid and bowl. I know you will get other replys on this subject and there are many better systems out there that do a better job of filtration than the K&N or the stock set up. Diesels are more sensitive to dusting than gas engines so it is that much more important. You can look at your turbo blades for signs of dusting by wear marks on the leading edges. A lot of guys on this forum run the Tymar and there are also some good and cheap DIY systems.
Don't worry about the black cover lid. Mine came off day 1 and now I run a Bean's fuel system so I couldn't put it back on there if I wanted to. It also eliminates 1 step when working in that area.
Don't worry about the black cover lid. Mine came off day 1 and now I run a Bean's fuel system so I couldn't put it back on there if I wanted to. It also eliminates 1 step when working in that area.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 173
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From: Lakewood, Washington
Take the tubing off from the filter to the turbo inlet. In your picture it is the orange one. You will be able to look in there and see the turbo blades. May want to have a flashlight handy to help out. Check out the link below for Beans Diesel performance intake systems. The Tymar system is $159. His shop is located in Woodbury, TN which is a short drive south of Nashville and he has quality products.
http://www.beansdieselperformance.com/94-97intakesystem.htm
The link below is his contact page with phone numbers and his address.
http://www.beansdieselperformance.com/Contactus.htm
Good luck with this.
http://www.beansdieselperformance.com/94-97intakesystem.htm
The link below is his contact page with phone numbers and his address.
http://www.beansdieselperformance.com/Contactus.htm
Good luck with this.
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Elder User
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Originally Posted by echo95
Take the tubing off from the filter to the turbo inlet. In your picture it is the orange one. You will be able to look in there and see the turbo blades. May want to have a flashlight handy to help out. Check out the link below for Beans Diesel performance intake systems. The Tymar system is $159. His shop is located in Woodbury, TN which is a short drive south of Nashville and he has quality products.
http://www.beansdieselperformance.com/94-97intakesystem.htm
The link below is his contact page with phone numbers and his address.
http://www.beansdieselperformance.com/Contactus.htm
Good luck with this.
http://www.beansdieselperformance.com/94-97intakesystem.htm
The link below is his contact page with phone numbers and his address.
http://www.beansdieselperformance.com/Contactus.htm
Good luck with this.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 173
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From: Lakewood, Washington
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ade-issue.html
Check out this thread with pics of a damaged blade. Not from dusting though.
Check out this thread with pics of a damaged blade. Not from dusting though.
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Marietta, OH/Weirton, WV
According to Dale at Tymar the K&N is not a good choice, a paper element is alot better as long as its hydrophoric(i think thats the word) meaning that it repels water.
---------Jeremy
---------Jeremy
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
The K+N are good for gassers but our engine need way more air than gassers. I don't like K+N for any engines but thats me. I have personally replaced one engine and diagnosed another PSD that should have been replaced both due to the K+N filter dusting the engine. The turbo impeller is the first indicator of dusting but its really the least of your worries. Both engines had too much dirt get into the cylinder. One had low compression resulting in hard starting and lot of smoke until it warmed up, then it missed a bit. The other had piston slap from the best we could tell with out tearing the engine down.
The best filter for the money is the tymar or the napa 6637. Same filter just different ways of hooking it up. I run it and love it. No dust ever gets past it, flow a ton of air and make jaws drop when you open the hood!
The best filter for the money is the tymar or the napa 6637. Same filter just different ways of hooking it up. I run it and love it. No dust ever gets past it, flow a ton of air and make jaws drop when you open the hood!
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Olympia, WA
If you go the Tymar filter route, you can buy it direct for less money than Beans sells them for, or piece your own together. I bought one from Dale at Tymar, it's a nice kit, but if you have the time to chase down the parts it would be very easy to duplicate for half the cost.
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Originally Posted by MagKarl
If you go the Tymar filter route, you can buy it direct for less money than Beans sells them for, or piece your own together. I bought one from Dale at Tymar, it's a nice kit, but if you have the time to chase down the parts it would be very easy to duplicate for half the cost.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 522
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From: Albuquerque
Originally Posted by jboard
According to Dale at Tymar the K&N is not a good choice, a paper element is alot better as long as its hydrophoric(i think thats the word) meaning that it repels water.
---------Jeremy
---------Jeremy
Hydrophilic is "water-loving"
Hydrophobic is "water-hating"
Last edited by Suber; Jul 1, 2007 at 09:11 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 782
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From: Olympia, WA
Call or email Dale at Tymar and tell him what you have and what you need.
http://www.tymarperformance.com/
My intake was $129 plus shipping I think. You could do it yourself for less I'm sure, but I'm short on time and it turns out Tymar is sort of local for me, same state anyway so I decided to give it a try. Good service, I'm going to get my exhaust from Dale too.
http://www.tymarperformance.com/
My intake was $129 plus shipping I think. You could do it yourself for less I'm sure, but I'm short on time and it turns out Tymar is sort of local for me, same state anyway so I decided to give it a try. Good service, I'm going to get my exhaust from Dale too.
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Elder User
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Originally Posted by MagKarl
Call or email Dale at Tymar and tell him what you have and what you need.
http://www.tymarperformance.com/
My intake was $129 plus shipping I think. You could do it yourself for less I'm sure, but I'm short on time and it turns out Tymar is sort of local for me, same state anyway so I decided to give it a try. Good service, I'm going to get my exhaust from Dale too.
http://www.tymarperformance.com/
My intake was $129 plus shipping I think. You could do it yourself for less I'm sure, but I'm short on time and it turns out Tymar is sort of local for me, same state anyway so I decided to give it a try. Good service, I'm going to get my exhaust from Dale too.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 3
From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
I put my own tymar copy together with parts at cost from napa and I didn't save more than about $20 over what a tymar costs. Just buy the setup and not bother with searching for parts and peices!
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Elder User
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Originally Posted by tjbeggs
I put my own tymar copy together with parts at cost from napa and I didn't save more than about $20 over what a tymar costs. Just buy the setup and not bother with searching for parts and peices!