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WE ALREADY DID!!!!! been there done that got the cookie and t-shirt! DAMN!
why spend $600 (or more depending on application) that does the EXACT same thing as welding? WHY?
to each their own... fine by me, BUT you will NEVER break a sterling OR a Dana 70 shaft with a welded carrier! EVER!
i challenege you to find someone who has ever busted a sterling axle shaft b/c of a welded carrier (and not b/c of your buddy's shoddy welding job either!)... and not a buddy of a buddy of a friends sister. try to find somebody.... i dare ya!
Hell, I've been known to gross 20K lbs with my diesel, it's rear is welded, and I run 33's... Never, ever had an issue other than the axle to hub bolts coming loose on the pass. side. Poor tires take a beating with the GN attached tho, only pulled it twice, I stick to a bumper pull because of that....
some folks are just scared of a weld or spooled rearend. just let'em spend the big bucks to do the same thing in a different way then they'll learn an expencive leson. the only thing that will happen with a welded/spooled rearend is a lil more tire ware thats all. ive got about 2000miles on mine now and probly over 40000 on a previous trucks spooled,just a few more tires with no probelms.if ya know how to drive it isnt that big of a deal
Go ahead and weld it...as fishy and kubota said, you will NOT break the sterling rear if the welding is done right. Now a dana 60 rear is a different story...
and i always thought my truck, 1997 oldbodystyle f350 had dana 60's front and back, so how do i tell if its a sterling or not. maybe ive just been misinformed this whole time.
OK, yall have convinced me to go ahead and weld my 10.5, saves the locker cost for the rear.
79f100six, don't weld the front Dana 44 it will not last!!! Years back I ran welded diffs front and back on my 1977 F150. Kept one hub unlocked to make turns! I got real good at replaceing axles, u-joints, tie rods and carriers. I would reweld the new one and do it again. But I was young and dumb with 500+hp. I have stayed away from solid diffs for that reason since.
and i always thought my truck, 1997 oldbodystyle f350 had dana 60's front and back, so how do i tell if its a sterling or not. maybe ive just been misinformed this whole time.
60 rears arent much stronger than a dana 44...weak 30 spline 1.3" shafts and smaller 9.75" ring gear, compared to a sterling 10.25" ring gear and 1.5" 35 spline shafts..
they started putting the sterling in the rear of pickups in about 1985.5
and i always thought my truck, 1997 oldbodystyle f350 had dana 60's front and back, so how do i tell if its a sterling or not. maybe ive just been misinformed this whole time.
Dana 60's and 70's have oil plugs in the cover. sterlings have plugs on the side of the housing on the front side just above the pinion centerline.
everyone thinks D60's are so great but they suck. biggest thing they have going for them is a decent aftermarket. BUT if you get a sterling to begin with you will NEVER break it so you wont have to worry
b/c you will NEVER break a sterling, you gotta be crazy/stupid/drunk/apathetic to break a sterling.
just gotta make sure that your 'buddies' ( ) weld it right! i'd be willing to bet 'they' just welded a couple of spots b/t the spiders and side gears and then when the weld broke (due to lack of proper cleaning and still having oil residue on everything) THEN the carrier bound up and broke. however i SERIOUSLY doubt it took out an axleshaft!