The dealers that told you that synthetic oil will harm a new engine are wrong. Yes engines need to break in but break in dosnt mean wear in. dodge and that other manufactuer both fill their high performance cars(corvette and viper... to name a couple)with synthetic oil right from the factory. by not using synthetic oil in future oil changes you will void your manufacturers warrantee.
also what do u mean in your last post about me having engine problems because i change my oil every 25k, i change the oil every 6k and the filter every 3k.
anyway
Check your sources again, it will only do your truck good to use synthetic oil
Good luck,
and by using synthetic oil in your truck, it will make the new radio sound better, ha ha :-)
Billy

 

Thats exactly it, new engines need to wear in, seat themselves so you dont get parts shifting around, and as for the dealerships being wrong sorry i dont think so im not tryin to start a fight here just that i have experiance with this mater cuz, in high school our techer taught us about this and when oil changes are performed and that they have a break in period, and i went to school to become a Crane Operator they told us the same things on the Diesel engines lets just say i got lots of friends that work in shops exc. that know and have seen it upfront. Just wanted to say also your using 5/20 weight in your V10 ?? why not 5/30 or 5/40.... ?? they protect way better sure there heavyer but they protect. and the 25000 mile thing you said it not me, you said you dont hafta change oil for 25000 i have done this just plain neglect in my old 2.9L V6 Bronco and it came out like Tar.... it aint good, oil starts to break down after roughly 5000 klm (depending how hard you work the engine) once the oil goes black/dark brown then its starting to lose its protectant nature and doesnt work as well, at 5000 klm my oil is just starting to turn to a darker shade of brown then when i added it from the container.Void the warenty if you dont use synthetic ?? what ?? i asked my dealer about that he got back to me last night (afternoon) and told me that as long as the oil/filter are changed on a regular basses they dont care what oil/brand i use so.....

Ya i get the point about using synthetic i plan on it as soon as the engine has had time to break in, and i won neglect this truck like i did my last, lol way more $$$ to rebuilt this engine then my 2.9L haha

The new oil will make the stereo sound better ?? lol I sure hope so great truck just the stereo (sound) quality needs to be upgraded by Ford dont know about Dodge but umm C@^#Y has a better sound system....hate to say it but its true i guess they need good sound while waitin for the Tow Truck !!! haha

2000 F150 Extended Cab 4x4 Sport, all Black
Head light covers
Tail light covers
"FordmotorSports" sticker in rear window
Stereo upgrade soon need some "thump" (gotta try the oil !!)haha

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 12-Mar-01 AT 04:26 PM (EST)[/font][p]From everything I've read about todays synthetics, I wouldn't have a problem running it in a new engine. I figure if the Viper has it from the factory then the break in issue is no problem. The only oil recommended in the Viper is Mobile 1. (I used to work @ a Dodge dealer & was their Viper technician) I know some of the so called synthetics aren't what they claim to be. My understanding of a synthetic oil is the refine all the molecules to the same size. This gives it better lubrication characteristics. As far as black oil loosing it's ability to lubricate & that it' breaking down, I don't agree. It just means that it has picked up a lot of contaminates. I do agree that some where between 3-5k miles oil should be changed.

 

I still think mineral for run in and later full-synth is the way to go.

 

Question for joeiii-
Which chip did you install in your PSD?
Ive got a 2000 F250 PSD and I am very close to purchasing a chip. Why did you chose the one you did?
Thanks,
Barno

 

joeiii-
oversight on my part. I just realized you wrote "super"chip.

 

OK, I guess I'll toss my two cents in.

1)Personally, I laugh at the people who's engines break down and they try to blame it on the oil. If by some slim chance it was due to the oil, it's only because they hadn't changed it in 15k miles and there's 3 inches of sludge in the pan.

2)For the average consumer in a daily driver, there isn't much difference in how oil is going to work in your engine (sans synthetics). We're not running 10,000RPM NASCAR motors or 1500HP dragster engines.

3)I've run everything from Valvoline, Quaker State, Mobil1, Generics, synthetics, etc. etc. etc. Ya know what? You can't tell a difference other than in how much it takes out of your wallet.

Like I said.....just my two cents (ok, 3 actually).

TrailDawg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3aaa4bac6f539876.jpg
1993 F150 2WD
4.9L-Auto
Pro-Comp Stage-2 6" lift
Auburn Pro-Series Diff. w/4.30:1 gears
35x12.50x15 General Grabber MT's
http://www.geocities.com/ProjectTrailDawg

 

The only oils that I won't use is penz and quaker state because of the high paraphen content that I've SEEN built up in valve covers. If you change your oil every 3,000 miles and use the recommended grades you probably won't notice much of a difference in the life of a motor that is simply designed for normal transportation. It may go longer on synthetic but it will start to leak sooner on synthetic so the chhoice is yours.

 

OK what about synthetics in automatics?
I do not know much about auto. but i have heard that there are some sort of clutch discs in there. Is this true?
If so wouild'nt a synthetic cause it to slip?
I used to be a motorcycle mechanic and Yamaha would void warranty if they found that synthetics were used in there motors.

 

A suggestion would be to perform a search on www.google.com for lubrication shear and drag coefficient. There is a definite difference in all mineral oils by manufacture as well as synthetics. The difference in synthetics and mineral oil is that the shear and drag coefficients for synthetics are maintained throughout a temperature band some having a band of below 60 to greater than 1500 degrees with no molecular change, were mineral oil will start to oxidize at a much lower temp and the shear and drag coefficients change drastically throughout the temperature band. I have read that installing a chip will increase the engine temp. by allowing increased fuel and air to burn, if this is true then I would prefer to have the added security of a stable lubricant to protect my investment. I have had the opportunity to experience the dramatic difference in the lubricating characteristics of synthetic oils versus mineral oils. The facility I work at has air monitors throughout the facility that use roots blowers to pump the air through the monitors, these blowers are very similar in design as the blower you would mount on your engine. In the 1990 time period we were experiencing premature failure after about a year of operation for these blowers. The fix was a change in lubricant from mineral that was recommended by the manufacture to synthetic. The blowers now have a 5 to 10 year life span. As for break in period for your combustion engine, with today's manufacturing tolerances and quality controls, the break-in is done well within the first 1K miles. If you really are concerned about break-in, pick up your vehicle go home change the oil to remove any residuals that may have been overlooked at the manufacture and then repeat at 1K miles after break-in. As for synthetics in transmissions the clutch assembly is designed with a known oil coefficient. This would take some research on your part for the right synthetic. I would think the transmission manufacture would have done some testing by now with synthetics. One thing I've learned in my short 43 years is that scientific facts and documented testing has always been sounder advise then I've received from some one that heard it from a friend who has had 20 years experience of doing it wrong. Thanks for allowing me to comment!