1991 F150 5.8L (351) E4OD

Had a loose starter, grabbed it with my hand and wiggled on the side of the road & got it started.

Got home, up on ramps, torque wrench in hand....good to go ....right???

1) top bolt: started to back it out FIRST and...SNAP!!!
2) bottom bolt: started to back it out...couple turns...SNAP!!!
3) starter in the face...sort of...

Any tips on drillin' these suckers out without droppin' the trans???

 

How much of the bolts are remaining, or are they broken off flush ??

 

The bottom bolt is drilled but not re-tapped. I'm having a hard time getting
to the top one.

There is only about 2 threads showing & the bolt snapped at a really
screwy angle so I can't get a drill bit to start on the dumb thing...

 

well the one that has afew threads left i would take a welder if u have one and a nut one size bigger and weld the nut full around the threads then try to get a impact on there a back it out that has worked afew times for me or cut it flush and get a few sharp drill bits drill and tapp it out

 

Welding on a nut is first choice... second is to try to grind it flat for drilling Buy LEFT HAND drill bit set. They are shorter and while drilling often the bolt backs out. If it dont than an easy out will likely work. Use never seize on ANY bolt going into a block will help in the future as well as giving a more accurate and consistant torque...
Brent

 

I hate to rain on your parade but using never seize greatly effects the torque. unless the service manual specifies a torque with anit-seize you accually over tighten the bolt in question and risk breaking it. Im not saying not to use it just think about the torque first. I'v got a chart specifing torques for use with anti-seize Ill see if I can find it.

anyway I did the same thing on my 88' make damn sure you are drilling straight and true. its a bitch but it can be done. if you have a compact right angle drill thats the way to go.

 

I agree a right angle drill is a great asset for these jobs not only because it is compact but it is more "true" as you have greater control over precise (even though hand held drills are inherently untrue) angle of attack...
I would like to see where using anti-seize would affect final torque! Remember the torque specs given are for a NEW hole with a NEW bolt! If a person does not cleanse the threaded hole than the torque spec would not matter much.... I have used GOBS of stainless bolts and nuts and to properly use one you "burnish" all threaded surfaces and use anti seize to prvent galling and seizing... I have had wheel lugs seize before the taper contacts the wheel and others break off trying to remove... I have had head bolts fail to read accurate torque/retorque readings EXCEPT when I used the anti-seize and had starter bolts "twisted" upon removal with out A-S and NEVER once have I had a problem with the use of A-S... Call me a stupid redneck for doing so but I will never torque another bolt without A-S LIGHTLY applied to the threads! I also apply a tad to the bottom of the "hexhead" portion of head bolts, manifold bolts etc. to reduce/eliminate false readings of the head "seizing" to the suface upon which it mates...
Torque values are for threads riding smoothly upon threads... Any other reading by a torque wrench are PURELY false unless it is a torque to yeild assembly upon which I refer to manual instructions... BTW TTY specs are usually VERY different of most torque instructions...
Brent

 

when you are removing dirty rusted or gulded bolts, If you have any movement at all in the bolt there is never any reason for you to brake that bolt off or strip it out. it is only if you get in a big hurry and try to mussel it out that you will have these things happen.

put some penetrating oil on it, start working it back and forth. each time it will go a little further, keep oiling it and soon you will have it. clean the threads and use anti seize compound on assembly.

if a bolt wont brake lose then try tightening it a little first and lots of times it will brake lose if not hit the bolt sharply on the head a couple times and try it again. I cant remember the last time I used a easy out. back in the old days we learned that before we ever got to work on anyone else's car.

 

I also am a firm believer in rapping and end wrench of even a ratchet at times with a rubber mallet or fairly small hammer... Really has been a great healy MANY times! Also for a bolt that is truly seized or rusted I generally broke off the EZ-Out and thus made a bad dream a nightmare!
Brent

 

I just broke an easy out off in bolt that I am trying to extract. Now I cant drill past the easy out. How do I drill past the easy out? It is shredding my bits.

 

Might be time to drop that tranny. Sorry about that.