So I bought AE and im getting two codes one is B2357 driver window down current sense low circuit failure. When the temp gets above 80's my drivers side window wont roll down. Sometimes if i slam the door a few times it will. Anyone know how to fix it based on this code or what it means. also im getting B1438 wiper mode select switch circuit failure. Whats that translate into. Also my truck runs rough on start up no smoke just rough. After awhile it smooths out but most the time not completely. What test should I run or monitors should I look at in live data? I ran the Cam position sensor one and it showed 0 the whole time driving or stoped normal? Also on the box it syas you can get torque horsepower and 1/4 times all that how do you go about setting that up?

 

Most of speed tracer wont work on our trucks we are missing a couple of sensors thta true ODB II vehicles have.

For the codes check the harness in the column for the wiper switch for chaffed / broken wires and for the window I'll have to look that up tonight but look here for some PM will you are in there. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...sh-window.html

 

I logged data for the first time this morning and my cam position sensor showed the same thing. This only explanation I can come up with is the CPS probably pulses from 0 to 1. I figure that the software can't sample fast enough to pick up the transitions. But I would think that it would pick up a 1 every now and then at least

 

Does anyone know if the CPS gives one pulse for every cam revolution or does it pulse at every tooth on a "gear" on the cam if so how many teeth are there

 

Maybe it is normal would think it would change.. Maybe there is a few things you got to run while checking that. So much to learn on that program

 

That is a counter bit for CPS errors. "0" is good no errors. If you catch the truck when it sets a P0340, 341, or 344 code you will see the 0 turn to a 1.

 

Hmm ok well thats good and bad. I was hoping CPS was causing the rough running. Thanks for the window link Ill try it next week.

 

would if definatly show a code with CPS error or couls it show a 1 without a code. Basically what I need to know is if the CPS stops working(the truck dies or stumbles ecause of the CPS would I be able to tell it from the CPS data on the AE system?

 

It depends, for a P0344 to set the light the error must occur 3 times in a single drive cycle or 1 time in 3 consecutive drive cycles. So you could see a 1 and not have a light.

 

Thank you very much. I think the CPS is going bad but it is very intermitant right now. It very rarely gives me any problems (once a week or so right now). I am trying to prove to myself that it is the CPS before I replace it. I know i should just change it cuz they are only $30 but i'm holding out for now.

 

Thats generally how they start before they end up setting a P0340 and leaving you dead in the water. Get one and keep it in the glove box.

 

I wanted to let you know that I had symptoms of a bad cps and decided to replace it regardless if it was the issue or not. I've only started my truck and let it run for about 10 min so I am not certain the fix is the new cps but I wanted to share what I know because so many of the members have shared with me. First off: I did check prices and the range was from $22-200. I found a cpc (Genuine #F7TZ-12K073-B) on eBay for $22 plus $8 mail express. I got it 3 days after ordering it. I found you can basically only do a home replacement from under the truck. I used a cushion from a lawn chair, doubled over and then I covered it with an old sheet to boost me up so my hands could reach the CPS. I used a light to see clearly; and safety glasses to protect me eyes. I used a quality like new 10MM socket with a 3 in. extension to remove the bolt. I was very careful because of a post suggesting the bolt would be tight and they were right. It came loose with effort but I can see it would be easy to round off and if so you would be in deep crap. Once the bolt was out I thought the CPS would just slide out. Not so.... the 0 ring creates a tight seal and since my truck is a 99 it's been in there awhile. Working with tool between all hose, and other stuff is not easy. I go some leverage on the actual elec rubber part but could tell I was not going to get it out that way. My worst fear then was if I broke off the elec part and the dkdkdk thing was stuck inside. I did two things. I go a 3/4" piece of strap about 12 " long and my crowbar. I looped the 3/4' strap around the elec rubber part and slid the crowbar behind the plastic housing right next to the block. I worked both gently and the CPS came out. I lubed the bold and new CPS with silicone spray and reinstalled. And, yes I pulled out the fuse as suggested. I know this is windy but it might help someone like me. good luck...cj