I was wondering what increase you see and at what rpms? like is there much of a diff at say 1300rpm-1600rpm with it unhooked as compared to hooked up?


Also I am going to be installing my boost gauge weds when i get my map line T. What pressure should i be seeing with a truck that is factory except for the 6637 mod? thanks

 

Not sure what you're asking -- what are you talking about being unhooked?? Wastegate??

You'll probably see upper teens maybe lower 20s when you really get on it without a chip. Not sure how much of a difference it makes without a chip... If you're doing the gauges, I highly suggest an exhaust temp gauge as well...

 

Sorry, i was talking about the red line on the actuator. It was getting late and i wanted to post before i forgot to ask and i screwed it up lol. I had thought i read that either with the red line unhooked, or using the boost tube that goes between the red line/actuator that it will increase lower end boost?


And as for the EGT that is on the list also, along with the trans temp gauge. Funding requires this to be done in baby steps. And the DP tuner is going to be last on the list i'm just trying to get everything else on it first.

 

just a thought pyro is more important than boost,im guessing you already have boost gauge? especially if your going to be hammering the throttle you really need to monitor egt temps.
imo i would get the pyro gauge and 4" or 5" turbo downpipe w/a bung in it for the gauge temp sensor 1st.and after that do the free mod remove the red vacc line from the waste gate.. note if you put the probe post turbo remember to add 200degrees to what the gauge says it becomes second nature after a few weeks.but atleast if the probe breaks off it wont obliterate your turbo.( if you were to tap the pre turbo)for a reading.the down pipe will help keep temps lower also.
for example mine is 4" down pipe and the highest reading i have got is 900degrees on gauge add 200 and you have 1100degrees wich happens very fast they say 1200 is the start of break down on the turbo.my boost levels are between 25-30 psi. these are the basics that are pertinent to your beginning set up.
02 f250 cc,lariat 4x4 3.73 axel ratios,4"downpipe to 4"magnaflow exhaust,diablo predator tuner,with waste gate vacc line removed and plugged.k/n filter 13" cobra filter soon to be changed.next mods up pipes,crank case vent bypass,remove the intake heater.

 

Okay, that's the wastegate actuator, and yes, pulling it will give you more boost. But I'm not sure how it will affect a non-chipped truck. I guess I could flip my DP to stock and check it in both states. I may do that tomorrow just to see what happens...

On the EGT probe, most agree it's best to put it before the turbo, either in the up-pipe or manifold (mine's in the up-pipe). You're monitoring EGTs to keep from melting a piston, not the turbo!!

I completely understand the funding thing. I started mod'ing in February with the CCV mod, then 6637, exhaust, syn oil, gauges, DP Tuner, & ITP Overboost Annihilator, the last few I just added recently. I'll be adding a couple more things in the next few months, starting with in-tank mods, HPX, and probably the regulated return...

The PMS list never ends...

Joe

 

Wow you said alot of "wrong" things, that need to be corrected...

The largest downpipe size is 4", you cannot get a 5" as it will not fit, no one makes them anyway. Do not put the EGT probe in the downpipe. You do not want to monitor the temperatures coming out of the turbo. You want to measure the temperature of the exhaust coming out of the engine. The turbo can withstand EGT's well over the temperature you can get to with stock injectors. The turbine wheel is good for at least 1800*. The reason we add EGT guages is to monitor the temps of the ALUMINUM pistons in the engine. Pure Aluminum's melting point is 1228*, however it will not start to melt at EGT 1228, because of other methods of cooling.

You mentioned that it's always going to be 200* lower post turbo, not true. Sometimes the difference can be as great as 400-450*, while sometimes the difference is no more than 50*. It all depends on the load the engine is under, and how hard the turbocharger is working. I have never heard a case where a thermocouple has broken off and went through a turbo. New thermocouples have great technology, and are rated well over 2000*. I can guarantee that your thermocouple won't break off.

Oh, and that red line, it's a pressure line, not a vacuum line.

 

The reason i am adding the boost gauge is because i have one in my 79 mustang that i never drive. And it would be better used in my truck so i can know how much boost it is making to determine if i need to check for leaks and fix that before i start buying EGT and trans gauges. I was planning on putting the thermocouple in the up pipe. I would rather have it blow out my turbo 1k$ vs a complete rebuild or replacement engine.

 

Your 79 mustang.. Does it have a blower or turbocharger?

 

its the factory 2.3 4 banger turbo.

 

well thanks for the clarification guess the guys that sold me all my stuff was bad info,pretty sad coming from a well known racing co/ speed shop here in tennessee that uses a psd to tow thier trailer with car,that recommended the same installs they have.

i too am new to psd guess i have a lot to learn still. as far as the probe in my biz i have seen them break in half on gas feed boilers not sure of the temps there though, so it sounded logical.

as for 5" down pipe go to motoblue exhaust gee i was a teenager once that knew everything too..haha i kid i kid.

as for vacc over pressure line my mistake.

thanks again here to learn more about psd.

 

Motoblue exhaust company uses a 4" downpipe to 5" at the transmission crossmember, like every other 5" exhaust system.