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Any Ideas? It got recharged last week, and worked great for a couple of days, then didn't need it for a few days. Now the compressor won't turn on. All the plugs are on all the way. Any ideas? Thanks guys
Since you needed it re-charged, the most likely problem is a slow leak that has allowed the charge pressure to drop below the threshold where the low-pressure cut-off switch has disabled the compressor. That switch is a safety to insure that the compressor isn't damaged by operating without any refrigerant.
My troubleshooting would be: Try jumping across the low-pressure switch to see if the compressor then operates. If it does, you could be low on refrigerant, or you could have a bad switch. Depending on the results, replace the switch or find the leak, however small, then re-charge.
However, without even a cheap set of gauges, you're shooting straw into the wind.
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Jun 5, 2007 at 10:14 AM.
Just get some R-134a for $5.97, and the hose kit for $10, and put in another 12oz with the engine running and AC on high. You should see the compressor clutch start to engage for 1sec, then disengage for 2sec, until you get the 12oz in. If so, then you know your clutch and pump is fine and you just have a leak somewhere. Next step is to buy some 134a with UV leak detector for $10ea and run that through and look around with a black light. Odds are, you will need to replace an o-ring or just tighten up a fitting? But if you are leaking out that quickly, there could be a leak in the condenser (high pressure side....)? I am no AC tech though, this is just my standard procedure for AC issues, which seems to be a common issue in Maine since we do not use the AC much.
Just get some R-134a for $5.97, and the hose kit for $10, and put in another 12oz with the engine running and AC on high. You should see the compressor clutch start to engage for 1sec, then disengage for 2sec, until you get the 12oz in. If so, then you know your clutch and pump is fine and you just have a leak somewhere. Next step is to buy some 134a with UV leak detector for $10ea and run that through and look around with a black light. Odds are, you will need to replace an o-ring or just tighten up a fitting? But if you are leaking out that quickly, there could be a leak in the condenser (high pressure side....)? I am no AC tech though, this is just my standard procedure for AC issues, which seems to be a common issue in Maine since we do not use the AC much.
Or, if nothing happens your problem is probably electrical. Chances are it's a leak somewhere. I would follow Springerpop's advice first and jump across the low pressure switch. If compressor comes on you, have a leak. Be careful, you will working with some dangerous pressures. The wrong hookup could be disastrous.
Just get some R-134a for $5.97, and the hose kit for $10, and put in another 12oz with the engine running and AC on high. You should see the compressor clutch start to engage for 1sec, then disengage for 2sec, until you get the 12oz in. If so, then you know your clutch and pump is fine and you just have a leak somewhere. Next step is to buy some 134a with UV leak detector for $10ea and run that through and look around with a black light. Odds are, you will need to replace an o-ring or just tighten up a fitting? But if you are leaking out that quickly, there could be a leak in the condenser (high pressure side....)? I am no AC tech though, this is just my standard procedure for AC issues, which seems to be a common issue in Maine since we do not use the AC much.
The problem with this method is that if you AREN'T under-charged, you will be OVER-charged after you dump an extra bomb of R-134a in there. That can cause problems with your compressor, and IT ain't cheap!
Sounds like it leaked out again to me as well.
Was the truck ever involved in an accident and needed front end repair?
Sometimes the condensor will get tweaked and still hold a vacuum, only to have a crack that opens up later on in life.
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