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I have a 1997 Ford Ranger, 1.4 cylnder engine, automatic. I just had new pads and rotors put on about a year and a half ago. I have put on 20,000 miles since. I get a slight vibration when braking hard. I know nothing about brakes or how to replace them. Just wondering if it's time to have pads replaced again. Last time I took my truck in to a BP Pro Care and walked out with a heft bill for new pads and 2 new front rotors.
The shaking is not caused by the brakes. It is a rotor/drum problem, tires out of balance, or both.
Rotors will warp from several causes, one of which is slightly loose wheel bearings. Other causes are grease or oil on them, overheating, going through water while they are hot, etc.
The solution is to replace the rotors, or have them turned. Then make sure the tires are balanced and the wheel bearings are snug.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Sep-02 AT 08:51 PM (EST)]Rotors can warp from wear and heat, or improper torque on the lug nuts in some cases. Much depends on quality of rotors and a person's driving habits.
Best thing to do is have someone check your brake pads, and rotors for out-of-true. If they are out, they should be able to true them on a rotor lathe.
Pull the rotors yourself and take them to a machine shop to have them turned. I really doubt you have ruined them already. Install a new set of pads and you're good to go for about $50 bucks, no more than $80.
This is not a hard job. If you can change a flat you can do this. If in doubt stop by the library and find a Chilton manuel for the little Ranger and read how to replace it's brakes. If you still have doubts, buy beer and invite someone who knows how to turn a wrench over to show you.
>Do you really think that the rotors could have gone bad that
>quickly? BP charged me over $300 for 2 new front rotors,
>bearing re-pack,labor, etc...
>
>I hate to have to shell out that kind of cash again.
>
>Thanks,
I tried to look up rotor prices on the web, I couldn't find a listing for a 1.4 engine in a '97 (NAPA). They run between $80-$100 depending on 2 or 4 wheel drive.
So, if thats the case, add the pads and labor, that $300 seems somewhat OK. Of course, it would be much less if you could do it yourself.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 13-Sep-02 AT 09:16 AM (EST)]
On the other hand, if you are only experiencing a slight vibration on Hard braking, my guess is you don't have a very serious problem. I would inspect the brake pads to make sure you have plenty of pad left and then drive the thing. This is not a safety issue! The brakes will continue to work properly, and you can turn the rotors the next time you have to replace the pads. Just my .02. :P
Bru
2002 F150 Super Crew
Black 4X4 Lariat
5.4 Engine Ford Chrome Bars
Ford Bedliner
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 13-Sep-02 AT 12:52 PM (EST)]It's a strange coincidence that I happen to have the same experience:
New rotors installed by the local Ford dealerapist about a year and a half ago. 25,000 miles later they are both warped. Confirmed by visual inspection of the side-to-side movement between pads when turning by hand.
After doing some research, I found information that indicates the factory rotors do not dissipate heat very well. Combine that with the OEM metallic brake pads (which are supposed to last longer than organic, but develop a hard, glazed-over surface) and you have the perfect recipe for generating and holding heat at a temperature high enough to warp the OEM rotors with as little as a water puddle splash on a hot day.
I see the solution as either:
A - Use the OEM rotors with cheap, organic pads that will reduce temperature, but will wear faster and therefore need to be replaced more often.
B - Use the OEM metallic pads with an after-market performance rotor (preferably drilled and slotted for best heat dissipation) and forget about it.
I've opted to do the latter. Ordered my new rotors from http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=78389&BQ=jcw2 and saved about $100 over the best local parts store price.
I had a '94 Ranger that went ate rotors. One thing I found was the rotors could be turned once maybe twice if you're lucky before they are below tolerances. The third time I replaced the rotors(around 150,000 miles) I put on some after market drilled rotors(Power Stop I believe). They cost less than stock and worked very well. I know ford improved the brakes in 95 or 96 but I'll bet the rotors still can't be turned more than once or twice.
The $300 doesn't seem excessive with the rotors included. It normally costs about $100 an axle without replacing the rotors. Truck parts usally cost more than car parts( rotors on my wife's car were $35-40 a piece, whereas my 4x4 ranger Power Stop rotors were $130 a piece).
I'm Taking my 01 Econoline van in for it's second set of brakes and rotors. The van has 19k miles on it. It's definately a substandard rotor situation. I have grooves in my 2nd set of rotors that look like the van should have 180K on it.
Just got my Econoline back. new Rotors and brakes. The van just turned over 20K.
Ford has issued a TSB. They will cover them under warranty. BUT..
There is a problem with the Vehicle weight and the braking spec's for the E-150's. The vehicle is too heavy for the brake system currently being used. Ford is warning against heavy towing and braking. Ford is recomending AFTER the warranty that the brake shoes be inspected every 10K and replace them if needed. (at your cost)
Now My question, How long has Ford been producing the Econolines..
Is there a R&D department anymore?
I agree on the E-150 brake problem. I work on conversion vans at Capital Ford in NC and the brakes on these things are puny. The rotors are barely an inch thick and usually don't last beyond 22K. Great vehicle except for the brakes