Front-drivers brake was grinding for about 10 days, maybe 200 miles. I figured there would be that warning tab on the pads. When I pulled it apart, there was not, and the pad was ground down to metal and had visibly ground away some of the rotor. The rotor is scratched. I put new pads on both fronts and have been driving this past week. It brakes fine -- does not pull to either side. I'm sure it's out of spec, but does the rotor really need to be replaced? Or run this set of pads through it and then consider new rotors?

 

At a minimum I would have them resurfaced. But when you consider that the rotors are a weak link in the front brakes it may pay to replace them with good aftermarket ones. I wouldn't put any $ into the old ones.

 

Don't put new pads on a scored rotor - they will wear down very quickly and conform to the rotor. Depending on what type of rotors you go with you can get better performance and longevity. The original rotors on a 2000 are most likely rusted with the cooling vents clogged and machining them will only leave you with less material to dissipate heat. A lot of folks here recommend the cryo rotors up front to help with warping - I just used the Napa premium rotors and have had great luck with them so far along with Hawk LTS pads.

 

Yes, the pads will wear quickly to conform to the grooves in the rotor but once they do that, they won't wear any faster than pads on a new set of rotors would.

 

I agree with Great Scott! Just run those until they are shot and then turn the rotors. Unless you have a lot of money and want some fancy rotors. ( Which I never thought were worth having)

 

If you have gouges in the rotor it is not a good idea to run new pads or continue to run those rotors. The metal is thin enough on 10 year old rotors - add in rust and now gouges and you will not have good braking performance in an 8000lb vehicle. The area where the gouge is will be susceptible to increase temperature ranges and will most likely crack or fail before you would like it too. The increased temperature is a result of more surface area - sides and bottom of the groove vs. just a straight line across the rotor. Might seem trivial but there is a reason why shops will not install pads on worn out rotors. If you have just minor grooves that you can't really see but can feel with a fingernail than I would agree 100% - install new pads and save the money. The Napa rotors are not fancy - just good quality replacements and really aren't that expensive. The premiums are about $68 and the ultra premiums are $104 a piece. I went with the ultra premium in the front and premiums in the rear with Hawk LTS pads and they are working great. The premiums are equivalent to stock and the ultra is machined to a higher tolerance for minimal lateral runout and the vents are a slightly different design.

 

Considering how much the Ex weighs I upgraded to some nice Stillen slotted rotors & more agressive pads.

You dont want to take chances w something this heavy at 60 mph

 

Considering you could easily tell that the rotor had been ground down, replace them. Rotors are cheap and not worth even the cost of having them resurfaced. Don't take chances with yours the other drivers safety.

 

Yea, so they can sell a turn job. I have never turned or bought a rotor and I've owned about 50 vehicles.

 

Good for you. I'll hopefully not be stuck in front of you when your brakes don't work at their best.... What mechanical certifications do you have which are leading you to that conclusion? Just because you haven't done it doesn't mean it shouldn't have been done or that you had optimal braking. For a vehicle that weighs as much as the Excursions it's not a risk the rest of us are willing to take.

For everyone else - if your brakes are marginal it's not worth the safety risk. It's a small amount of money to ensure your safety and others around you. I don't recommend turning rotors - most of the time they will end up being too thin and can warp easier.

 

It was never a risk. They always worked fine.

 

I just replaced the Power Slot Cryos on the front of the X with the DBA slotted rotors from the Tire Rack. I used the same pads that were about 1/3 worn. When I would stop with the PS, it felt like they would brake then let go.....like a slight rocking back and forth motion. Not sure what that is in brake parlance, but the DBAs took care of the problem. X brakes like a dream and I like that when I'm trying to stop 4.5 tons.

One other thing I would like to pass on in regards to safe braking. Last year I replaced the electric brakes on my 10,000 lbs Bri-Mar dump trailer. Best thing I ever did. What a difference in braking. It was not cheap. Cost me $1400 for 4 Kodiak disc brake kits (caliper, caliper mount plate, new hubs and rotors and bearings) and the electro-hydraulic brake pump. That alone was $650. The trailer brakes awesome and my friends that use it cannot believe the difference.

When I'm trying to stop 9 tons because some idiot gets stupid, it sure is a lot better with this setup.

DSMMH

 

They're not so cheap and easy to replace if he has a 2wd.

 

While I admit that driving habits are the biggest factor in brake component longevity, rotors are a wear part and while rotors that are under specification will still stop a vehicle, some loss would be expected. Therefore, your claim illustrates that you either don't keep your vehicles long or don't mind degraded brake function or both.

That's fine by me, but hardly addresses the original post.

OTOH, I do completely agree with your previous post regarding running these pads out and then turning the rotors on the next change.

 

I'll probably upgrade the lines to steel braided

Might go for the Stillen big brake kit too