Take off the little tin nut. Slide the solenoid off the post. Put special socket onto the IPR and loosen it and take it out. Get it in your hand, replace th two o-rings and put it back in. Slide the solenoid back on and snug up the tin nut really good but don't break it. With the socket in hand you can do it in less than 10 minutes even if you drop the tin nut and fish it out with a magnet and drop the little rubber seal for the electric plug hookup and fish it out with a little piece of wire.

The special tool is a 1/2" drive deep 1 1/8"(I think) socket with a little piece of metal welded out of the side of it so it looks like a chainsaw wrench. It's easier to not put the little piece of metal at the end like a chainsaw wrench. Put the piece of metal in the middle and it ends up being easier to use. The other option is to try to find an old socket with a six-sided end that you can put a wrench on. Some of the tool companiea used to put a six-sided bolt-like head on the end of the socket that you could put a wrench on. It works great because you can just get the wrench down in there without taking apart the fuel filter canister or anything else major.

 

will a bad ipr cause white smoke out the tail pipe ?

 

It could cause white smoke (low high pressure oil pressure could cause poor atomization which would cause white smoke white smoke). do you have anyway to hook a scanner to it to watch the HPOP?

 

not untill monday my friend at the shop has a snap on scanner will this do it

 

yes the snap on will. you need to watch ICP pressure while cranking and running. To start you need atleast 470 psi. let me know what you see idling and running down the road and at wide open throttle. With the starting issue hot you more than likely need atleast IPR o-rings.