possible cam problems
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From: boondocks, tennessee
possible cam problems
so i'm getting a pretty good way into my 400 build i've got the whole bottom end together save the oil pan and pump and today i was getting ready to install my shiny new Edelbrock 2172 cam and lifter set. Well i lubed up all the journals and lobes with the edelbrock supplied moly break in lube. i got the cam all the way in but it seems to be a little hard to turn. so my question is without the timing gears or chain in place how easily should the cam turn. i put in the fuel pump eccentric bolt and used the torque wrench and it seems to take about 15-20 ft lbs to turn it. is this normal, if not what could be my problem?
Posting Legend
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It depends on how many bearings you boogered up slipping it in. It does not take much to create a burr. If they go in right they will spin with your fingertips. Spin it for a while with a speed wrench and see if it starts turning easier. Or you can take it out and look for marks.
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From: boondocks, tennessee
well i have an update on my cam situation...i took the edelbrock cam out and put the original cam back in and its doing the same thing. it will turn but only with a wrench. i was thinking about it and one thing i thought was that the machine shop could've put the wrong cam bearings in...would that be a possible explaniation? should i call the machine shop? it is a well known shop with good reputation building racing engines.
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From: chicago burbs
it's not uncommon for the installer to leave one cocked a little bit either, try to get the block/bearings cleaned up as best you can and get a real good look at each bearing, see if you can find one(or more) that looks like it's not quite seated.
you can try applying something to the bearings, then put the old cam back in and spin it for a while. the high spot will show itself by the something that you applied rubbing off. what to use? i don't know, crayon? dy-kem? magic marker?
there was a guy that made a bearing shaver out of the old cam, he cut slots into the journals of the old cam, slid it in and turned it. the cut in slots acted as cutters on the bearing, like a self tapper. i'd go more conservatively at first though! look for a ding or mis-alignment.
BTW, it's a lot easier if you put the cam in first.
you can try applying something to the bearings, then put the old cam back in and spin it for a while. the high spot will show itself by the something that you applied rubbing off. what to use? i don't know, crayon? dy-kem? magic marker?
there was a guy that made a bearing shaver out of the old cam, he cut slots into the journals of the old cam, slid it in and turned it. the cut in slots acted as cutters on the bearing, like a self tapper. i'd go more conservatively at first though! look for a ding or mis-alignment.
BTW, it's a lot easier if you put the cam in first.
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From: boondocks, tennessee
An update...
well i called the machine shop yesterday any shared my situation with them. they told me kinda the same thing that you guys have...that probably one of the bearings is a little crooked. the shop owner told me that they normally like to have the cam when they install the bearings just to avoid this type of thing. he told me to bring the engine and my new cam back to them and they would take care of it. so i loaded the motor up and dropped it off this afternoon. the shop owner was really cool about it and he told me that he would have it fixed and back to me by friday. so i'll give another update when i get it back on friday.
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Posting Legend
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BTW, a marking compound to find high points and rubbing is called layout fluid. It can be purchased at good hardware stores and industrial supply stores. For small jobs a magic marker or sharpie can be used to scribble on the surfaces.
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From: boondocks, tennessee
cam update and another question
well i got my motor back today. turns out the #1 cam bearing was jacked up. the machine shop installed a new set for free and now it spins freely. so now i'm ready to put the timing set on. that brings me to my next question of how do you tell when the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke so that i set my timing right and not 180 degrees off.
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From: boondocks, tennessee
i know that i have to match the mark on the cam and crank gears. i don't have the heads on the motor yet. what i'm asking is that the #1 piston is at TDC two times, at the end of the compresion stroke and at the end of the exhaust stroke, so if the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke then what are the locations of the other pistons. i know that i can figure out when its on the compression stroke with the heads on but it will probably be a couple more weeks before i get the heads on.
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At TDC compression the lifters for the #1 valves will both be on the base circle of the cam (valves would be closed) and the #1 piston will be at TDC.
At 180 out both lifters will be just starting or ending a ramp on the cam lobes (both valves would be slightly open due to overlap).
At 180 out both lifters will be just starting or ending a ramp on the cam lobes (both valves would be slightly open due to overlap).
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