Hey I'm new here and I've been looking for a truck and I found a 1987 F-250 4X4, with a stick and a 6.9L, when I go to look at it what should I be looking for along the lines of mechanical and suspension problems? It is already lifted a little. What are the Pros and Cons of this motor? I'm looking for a truck because the other car I have is a 1970 Chevelle and so far in the year I;ve driven it it has been keyed, hit by a skateboard, clipped, dented, and most recently (last Wed) the windsheild was smashed in. So i want something I don't need to constantly worry about. Thanks for the help

 

One thing to look out for is the frame. There's a front cross member thats riveted to the frame. On these older frames sometimes the rivets wear down and loosen causing flex in the frame. In the worse case scenario you can crack the frame. My welder explained this to me while I was paying his bill!

One significant upside of the 6.9L over the 7.3L is the width of the cyclinder walls. The 7.3L is a bored out 6.9L. This is important if you want to ever rebuild the engine. I've got a 1991 7.3L with 308K miles on it, so naturally I wanted to rebuild it. I found out that there's not enough metal left on the cylinder walls to rebuild without re-sleeving the cylinder. And the sleeves for 7.3L apparently are NOTHING like the sleeves on a big rig and don't really work. One guy on this forum shared his experience of the sleeves coming out multiple times and it made me not want to even bother. So, now I'm wishing I had the 6.9L.

Another thing to look at is the main fuel tank. The main fuel tank sometimes sags and ends up resting on the protection plate. Over time the tank rubs metal-to-metal and provides a place to rust. Not a big deal to replace, but just something to be aware of.

I'm not sure about the 1987 front suspension, but if it's the TTB (twin traction beam) you'll ALWAYS have uneven wear on your front tires. I have this axle and rotate my tires with each oil change to get the most mileage I can. Tires are pricey nowadays. I'd never get a truck with this axle on it again, it's just a bad design for your pocket book.

Now on to transmissions! This is a hot topic for me because I've had mine rebuilt 3 times and the transfer case was rebuilt 1 time as well. If it's a manual transmission you're golden, but if it's an auto tranny I would start talking to every tranny shop in your area and find someone who really likes your specific tranny and also knows how to beef it up. Once you find them have them inspect the tranny. I have the E4OD and it turns out that there are lots of little things a good transmission expert can do to the transmission to improve it's reliability, but it costs real $ to have it done. If you get this one wrong the transmission can cost you more then the truck did.

One problem with older diesels is has to do with the fuel lines. There's a handful of gaskets that age and let air into the system. Sometimes this means starting problems. Also old, dry, cracking rubber lines can be problematic too.

Lastly, the start system. I spent a little of $700 last year getting mine starting system back into tip top shape. I was a bit shocked with the cost. With an old truck, reliable starts come from maintenance, not by accident. I live in Colorado and deal with cold starts at high altitudes. My alternator died, my batteries were old, and my cables cracked and corroded. Plus the starter and selonoid went to pot too. All in a single season. I used Optima Red's and have been VERY pleased with them - cold cranking amps are a real requirement for me. Also, I had to have the glow replaced too.

The only other thing that I can think of is the fuel injector pump. It's a pretty pricey part and sometimes fails. There's an automatic adjustor on it that can stick too. This isn't always a problem, but it's not functioning properly so you won't get as much power as you should. Mine is frozen in place and I'd like to fix it, but there always seems to be something higher priority.

My experience is just that, mine. It's what I've gone through with my 1991 f250 4x4 - I live in Colorado and took the truck on too many mountain roads. I never abused it, but I did use it hard

bart

 

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/car/337161957.html

This is the link to the truck I want, What do you all think. Considering I'm a chevy guy I hope someone will be nice enough to give me some insight, I just want a reliable truck that I can take wheelin occasionally and be able to drive it every day.

 

just another thing or two you might want to look at, check the transfer case to make sure it goes in and out of 2H, 4H, and 4L and that it's solid when you gas it a little in each setting. last year the transfer case in my '90 f-250 ate itself and a rebuilt one cost 2117 to replace including clutch, pressure plates, etc. switches on the dash can and will go bad, but it's not a deal breaker since they are fairly easily accessed. you didn't mention if it had dual tanks or not, but check to make sure fuel sending unit(s) are working. they're 200+ apiece from ford(somebody may know a better price/source) if it's like mine, i bought it with 178K miles on it and haven't regretted it a bit....well, except for the replaced transfer case. even if this isn't the one you get, you can't go wrong with an IDI diesel engine 'cause it ain't got all the electronic crap to deal with going out. while i know a little about these trucks, the other guys on the site here are a WEALTH of information and have helped me on various problems.

speedrdr

 

oh, yeah, from my experience, if you plan on going off road in much bad mud, have a gooooooood friend(s) handy to help you get the thing out. the 250's tend to be lead sleds and like to "sink". LOL

speedrdr

 

That looks like a fine truck, but a picture doesn't tell ya much. I did a little research, and from what I can tell ford put the TTB front axle on the F250 from 87 'till '97. Chances are the speedometer has been around once, maybe twice, so I wouldn't be shocked if axle bearings are needing a replacement. One way thing I would consider if the guy will let you is to jack up the front end and see if the tires have any play fron top to bottom or side to side. Any slop will let you know from front end suspension work. I had to replace all tie-rod ends, and it was pretty easy. Just had to have it algined afterwards. I suppose I could of done the axle bearings, but I've never done them before so I had a mechanic do them for $500.

The good news aboutthat truck is the tranny! Wahooooo for the manual That's a killer important feature from my perspective. That engine will last longer the any E4OD ever will. Personally, I don't think the automatics are well suited for the diesel engines... to much low end torque. From what I can tell the '87 manual was a 4 speed, the 5 speed came out in '88, so I'd take that into account if you're doing mostly high speed highway driving. While I love my truck, I don't like driving it in stop and go traffic. The newer vehicles are made to stop and swerv better than my old pickup, so sometimes it's a bit nerve wracking when I have to slam on my brakes.

One thing I don't know much about is cavitation. I have my antifreeze checked almost every year and it's always fine, but it is something to be aware of.

I've got rust on both wheel wells as well as the rocker panels so check to see there's any body filler.

Truth is Chevyboy_0 unless that guy has been awesome about maintaining the vehicle, you're gonna have some work ahead of you to make it a reliable daily driver. I bought my truck with 100K on it (so the guy said) and I've never had a single problem with the engine. As you can see I have had to replace many other parts though. I didn't always do the best job on maintenance (mostly just because I couldn't afford it) but the truck is still running just fine. Another point to mention is that these trucks are pretty easy to work on to. Not as easy as a jeep, but pretty close!

If I were buying a $2000 truck I would be expecting to do some immediate repairs, Ford, Chevy, or Dodge.

Good luck.

bart

 

Chevyboy_0,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI forum.




Right much of a highway only truck, but some of us have different definitions of highway.

Look for obvious broken or worn parts, there are not any things that really stand out as bad.
But that also depends on what you want to do with it after it is yours.

 

Basically what I want to do is be able to drive to and from school everyday, and get somewhat better gas (in this case diesel mileage) maileage then my chevelle, and on the weekends take it wheeling sometimes, I also need something that gets better traction then the chevelle becasue in the rain I can't get traction from a stoplight or stop sign.

 

If the truck has 5 speed tranny (I don't know the exact year when it replaced the 4 speed), then it MIGHT be able to deliver 20mpg or more, assuming the engine/fuel system are in good shape. It would also depend on how the truck is geared, 4.10 gears are good for pushing the odd house over, but 3.55s would be better for the highway.

 

got a 5 speed in my '90 and before speedo cable broke and could figure mileage, was getting a consistent 18 on the road at 55 mph. have 4X4 and 4.10 gears. if truck was tuned better and i bothered to chase down that last fuel drip, might get close to the 20. all in all, happy about it since it's getting within 2 mpg of 6-cyl toyota 4X4 and has LOTS more load capacity and comfort.
speedrdr

 

Not to hijack the thread but a couple of questions. I've done the coolant filter mod, cut out the soup bowl, put in Power Service additive, and added a cold air inlet( it goes out the front but through the hole to the right of the radiator support so it only draws in cold air not a ramair). Is a K & N filter really worth it? What other mods would you suggest?