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Generator - Won't Start

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Old May 20, 2007 | 10:31 PM
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Generator - Won't Start

i parked a kawasaki 1400w gennie in my shed awhile back. It was running then. I got it out and replaced the old gas, cleaned the carb. I tried to start and it has no spark. I found some rust on the magneto flywheel and magnet . I cleaned the rust from the magneto and flywheel and still no spark. I checked the plug in a scooter, plug is new and works. What happens to the spark from just sitting? All the wiring is good, no pests in the shed. When I ground the oil alert wire and pull thru I get a red light so there is juice coming from somewhere, I'm not sure it's from the mag or the generator. Any ideas on what to try next? Any small engine gurus out there?
 
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Old May 20, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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That doesnt have points in it does it?
 
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Old May 20, 2007 | 10:56 PM
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Is the pick up coil that runs off the magnets on the flywheel external? Or did ya have to pull the flywheel to clean the rust off? If ya removed the pickup coil to clean it than it has to be reset with a feeler gadge. These areas need to be super clean. Not just scraped off with a pocet knife. Any loose rust or metal shavings can ground out the pickup coil and no spark. If yours has points under the flywheel like Preppy asked than replace them. Setting them without the proper tools is tricky to say the least. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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Old May 21, 2007 | 02:48 AM
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I did not have to pull the flywheel. There are no points. The magnet is on the outside and directly faces the coil. From the coil there are wires for the kill switch and the low oil level light light and shut off. I had to remove the coil to check it for rust and it did not have a "slot" that indicated that it had to be gauged but I did have to put an "eyeball" gap in it. I cleaned everthing until it looked bright and shiny. Any idea of a gap to start with?
 
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Old May 21, 2007 | 03:41 AM
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I have worked on small engines for some time now. I was taught by my grandfather who is long gone now but I still remember what he said about the coil/flywheel gap. He told me to take a peice of regular paper and fold it over one time and place it between the coil and flywheel. Hold slight pressure on the coil toward the flywheel and tighten it up. Then rotate the flywheel and slide the paper out. This will give you the proper gap. If there is no spark with electronic ignition, one of three things can be wrong. 1) rusty coil and/or flywheel. 2) bad coil. 3) poor or broken electrical conection. As far as cleaning the coil and flywheel goes, a wire brush on a drill does the job for me. You can't hurt the coil or flywheel with a wire brush. Good luck, I hope this helps...
 
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Old May 21, 2007 | 07:02 AM
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Check the shutoff, I'll bet thats where the trouble is. A lot of times those push button shut offs will mess up and cause no start.

Same thing happened with my fathers snowblower. Only used 3 times then put away (properly). Would not start the next snow season.
 
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Old May 21, 2007 | 07:21 AM
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If you oil light is coming on it sounds like it should fire.The low oil switch might be bad or sticking,did you try disconecting the kill wire from the coil and check for spark.You can set the coil gap with a business card and that will be good.
 
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Old May 21, 2007 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by GlennFordx4
If you oil light is coming on it sounds like it should fire.The low oil switch might be bad or sticking,did you try disconecting the kill wire from the coil and check for spark.You can set the coil gap with a business card and that will be good.
Agree.
Step one: remove the kill switch wire from the ignition module itself and test for spark.
I know this is a Kawi, but B&S electronic ignitions will fire even set at the maximum distance from the fly wheel. The spark is just retarded a bit.
Sanding magnets and or armature legs is a waste of time. Surface rust has zero impact on the ability of the magnetic field to do its job. Severe rust between the laminations of the armature is another story, however.
In this day and age of redundant safety features and low oil shutoffs, it is more likely that one of these subcomponents is the culprit. Disconnecting the main kill lead from the coil itself is the fastest way to eliminate all of those possibilities as causes.
 
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