Project engine cam-etc
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
And this timing chain set:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Probably this gasket set, might be an off-brand cheaper, but I like FelPro
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Chet (AnOld Dog) is going to send an intake down from Summit, I'll dontae the Edelbrock 750 I have, or...I have a Holley 750 dual feed, vac secondary
How's the plan?
Summit's other brand cam, I think may be too tame, as it runs out at 4K, I think it'd be a better can for trail riding, but for the bogs, the cam I listed would be better.
EDL-2166
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D2166&autoview=sku
EDL-3766
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D3766&autoview=sku
It was suggested that I keep an eye open on ebay or craig's list, but any savings would be lost if it needed repair work. They're cheap enough that we might as well pick one up new.
Last edited by AnOldDog; May 20, 2007 at 03:32 PM.
I'll do a search locally on Ebay and CL...I know at the swapmeets we could save a few bucks as well, plus it's cool to wander around anyways
As to the cam, didn't Skip offer us a new one he had? Of course, the kit cost with a cam may be about the same as buying the lifters and other parts by themselves.
Also, if we are going to push a Ford V8 to 6K RPM and use a high-lift cam, maybe a hardened push rod would be a good investment?
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Also, Hardened push rods are not any stroger than what comes in an engine (comparing like same stuff) but are used for eith when you run guideplates or if the holes in the heads are used for PR guides...the "hardened" is a case hardening, like on gears and stuff, to minimize wear...there are strocger aftermarket push rods, but I don't think they'ed be needed, we're not going to run a super aggressive cam with high spring pressures, etc...we will have to get some decent springs through, I'm sure the originals have lost thier poop by now.
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Anayway, I think it might bee too much for us anyways, I though the duration was in the 235-range?
If so, and we have dished pistons and can't easily get the CR up to build proper cylinder pressure, we'd have a problem just getting the thing to pull out of it's own way.
ANyways, once we know what we have, we might be able to make a better choice.
Anyone know where to get engine specs on our motor>? I/e CR, head volume, piston type?
Last edited by 3Mike6; May 20, 2007 at 04:06 PM.
Anyone know where to get engine specs on our motor>? I/e CR, head volume, piston type?
Pistons are one of the differences between truck and car engines. Typically the trucks came with deep dish pistons, the cars with flat top pistons with deep eyebrows. Basically you have to look to see what you have.
Also, you said "The 2166 should be the ticket, I've always like the Performer series of intakes, and we won't be overcammed to match."
Did you mean "overcammed too much"? or that our cam will match the intake?
Pistons are one of the differences between truck and car engines. Typically the trucks came with deep dish pistons, the cars with flat top pistons with deep eyebrows. Basically you have to look to see what you have.
Also, you said "The 2166 should be the ticket, I've always like the Performer series of intakes, and we won't be overcammed to match."
Did you mean "overcammed too much"? or that our cam will match the intake?
So....based on what you're saying abuot car vs. truck engines, IF we have dished pistons, then our CR will probably be low, only (inexpensive) option to get it up would be to mill the heads, but we may have to go to far then angle mill the intake, get's to be a pain....otherwise it'd be new pistons or different heads.
I'd say unless we see some serious failure in the engine, we stick with what we have and build around it with a matched setup to our projected CR, we may be better off (if CR is real low) to go with the smaller Summit grind cam, I'd rather have the engine run right at the widest RPM range possible.
The perfromer intake will suit either cam grind Summit makes for the 460.
Besides, if ours looks okay, it'll easily take the 500-5500 RPM bursts a hundred yards at a time for a very long time. We'll get some insight from our new member (forget the screen name) that offered to assist with the tranny, to let us know what we can change to make it shift where we want and save the possibility of an over shift trying to do it manually.
Last edited by 3Mike6; May 20, 2007 at 05:40 PM.
EDL-2166
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D2166&autoview=sku
EDL-3766
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D3766&autoview=sku
It was suggested that I keep an eye open on ebay or craig's list, but any savings would be lost if it needed repair work. They're cheap enough that we might as well pick one up new.
Just got to thinking, I know that there are some "offshore" copies of the Performer intake for SBC and BBC's, I'll taker another look through EBAY and see if I can spot some for the 460.
1. Move the radiator to the bed of the truck, otherwise it gets clogged up really quick and starts overheating.
2. Block off the grill so mud doesn't cake in around the engine.
3. Fab up something like a skid plate to keep mud from piling up around the front axle and engine compartment.
4. Have a spare air cleaner assembly for a quick swap between races. You can clean the other one up between runs.



