I recall when Clint brought it up, I mentioned moving the radiator and intake to the bed, but I think for the "street" class he said we couldn't? He'll have to reconfirm.

SKid plate is a great idea, we could also use some belting to save weight and eliminate the concern of bending metal up where it'd be hard to get back into shape....my dad use to run a piece of belting at the front axle of his Pete, he'd go over rows of asphalt and never get a touch of it on his axle or oil pan.

 

It's only going to save a couple of bucks. Why mess around? It is no big deal. I'll get the performer from Summit. It is a known commodity and if there are any issues in shipping or flaws in product we have someone that will make it right.

Consider it on its way.

 

You're a hell of a guy Chet....but again, no rush to do it now, I won't be ready for another 2-3 weeks.

Thanks.

 

My ex wives would disagree with you.

 

No, it is legal to move the radiator, at least at the Rattlesnake Raceway. But do we want to make it that much of a specialty vehicle? We were wanting something anyone (even older kids)could drive, and that we could use on trails.

We lose the box if we do this. No hauling wood or anything.

 

How many manifolds did you give them?

 

Can't we be creative and fab up a bracket that can easily swap the radiator between the two locations?

The grill shield wouldn't have to be much. It could just slide into the frame when the radiator is moved to the bed and slide out to move it back. It is just to collect the muck somewhere other than the block. If we went with an electric fan, and kept the hoses, the change would be almost no work at all.

Drain the radiator fluid into an appropriate container, make the swap, and refill from the "appropriate container".

 

It was more about driveshafts, but that is as far as I'm going to take this conversation.

 

OKay, let's remember this is a family run site

I think if we go with the tilt frontend, the radiator thing will be just that much easier....

But hey. let's try to keep this thread on the engine, I want everyone to agree/disagree/yack about the build of the engine itself.

 

We talked about this when we got the engine- here is what Leroy said then:

The heads that are on your engine are the 1973 castings, this does not mean that this is a 73 engine, these castings were used til later in the 70's, the biggest thing that these numbers tell me are #1 nonadjustable, pedastle mount rockers, #2 more than likely a 72-75 cc cumbustion chamber, but without removing the heads & having a look I cannot be sure about the combustion chamber size,

As far as the block goes, if I was a betting man I would say that the casting numbers would start with D1VE, indicating it is a 1971 casting, (again used til the late 70's) I did stick my hand behind the dampner & could not feel an external balance weight on the dampner spacer, this would indicate that it is either a 429 or an internaly balanced 460, reoving the pan will answer that question, if it is a 460 the crank will have a 2YA casting number, I do not remember the # for a 429, but I can go to the shop & find out if there is any question later, if everything turns out to point at a 460 then there are only 2 down falls that are only minor, 1 more than likley it will be fairly low compression for what you want to do, & 2 the internaly balance 460 had the weaker rods, (square heads on the rod bolts rather than the "football rods" which get there name from the oval headed rod bolts, leaving more material on the rod) myself I would not be concerned about the rods up to around 450 horse power, & 7000 rpm, some may argue but thats what I have done with them,
Now if an opprtunity come to swap the rods out & go to a higher compression pistion I would take it,

Now for the parts I have & the compatability with your engine, The cam that I have is a comp cams 280H, it is a hydraulic flat tappet cam, & will work with your non adjustable valve train, the only thing I would like to see with this cam & your engine is at least 10:1 compression & an upgrade in valve springs, an aluminum intake manifold would be prefered aswell something along the lines of a wiend stelth, (ebay has a few pass threw at a decent price, might keep an eye out) with this combo in your truck & a set of 4.10:1 gears I would expect enough bottom end grunt to spin a set of 33" tires at will on dry pavement, & should make good power to about 5000-5500 rpm,


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...oject++skipped

 

I must have been on the road when Leroy showed up. Great info. Is this an inflection point in our parts discussion?

 

Leroy is our Ace in the Hole - he is an experienced mud bogger from Nevada, running a 750 horse 460. He was there when we got the idea for this project - and has been very helpful.

I trust whatever he says - even when it is not the way I thought or wanted to go.

Wanna Race?



He is the one in blue!

 

Yes, what you posted is pretty much what I think as well....unless we have the compression ratio (CR) to warrant a lrger camshaft, we have to build around what we have...or think about dropping 2500+ into machine work and parts, to make a 10+:1 CR ratio engine....

Again, I'm just for working with what we have and not spedning dollars on rebuildnig...if that were the case, we should think towrads a win at all cost engine, not just a freindly grudge match truck.

 

Nice paint job!

 

Does the stock class allow the radiator to be moved to the bed?