Fuel leak
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
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From: Gambrills
I am going to pick up truck today They can't give me an exact price just "It will be around $1600.00!!!! So I am going to try to tackle it again.
I am wondering if the turbo actually has to come off? does the dampner spin off? if it does can I spin it off and continue with the repair?
I am wondering if the turbo actually has to come off? does the dampner spin off? if it does can I spin it off and continue with the repair?
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 519
Likes: 0
From: Montague, MI.
The dampener and the dampener gasket are listed as separate part numbers. That tells me that they must come apart somehow. If all else fails you could wreck the old line and replace it with a new line without the dampener on the banjo fitting with all of the money that you will save doing it yourself. How much room is there around the dampener? Does it look like you could get it off?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
There is not much room to get to the dampner. There is about a half inch of clearance from the bottom of the turbo pedistool to the top of the dampner. I don't see any lines going to the dampner. Are you looking at a drawing of it? If so I would like to see what you are looking at.
Thanks.
PS there is not much fuel in the valley and it only leaks when I shut off the engine it just starts dripping (it has gone up to about 15 drips now). Could it be something other than the fuel pump? maybe?
Thanks.
PS there is not much fuel in the valley and it only leaks when I shut off the engine it just starts dripping (it has gone up to about 15 drips now). Could it be something other than the fuel pump? maybe?
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
Likes: 7
From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Copedawg:
I have this information that can be useful for you and cali truck owners.
Buy a 1/2 " drive, impact socket 1-1/4" and tack welded it to a piece of 1-1/4" black pipe, put it in a mateal band saw and cut off the socket leaving only enough to grab the banjo bolt, then ground the tack welds off and ended up with a socket short enough to reach in and unscrew the banjo bolt. Using a 3/8 drive swivel head ratchet and a 3/8 to 1/2" drive adaptor, I managed to break the banjo bolt loose,and finally get it out. I loosened the fuel filter canister and slid it towards the fan, replaced all the fuel lines with Ford factory lines,and new crush washers on the banjo bolt, cleaned the screen on the FPR while I was there. To re-assemble I used a plastic tip off a silicone tube, (new here not used) shoved that into one of the holes of the banjo bolt and then a screwdriver into the tip of the tube,(sounds wierd but it worked) shoving the banjo bolt into the fuel line assembly and the pump. Best part of all the truck fired right up with no leaks. Hope this info will help someone on their fuel pump replacement.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
The fuel dampner was not removed separately, I had loosened the fuel lines at the fuel galleys at the rear of the heads and slid the dampner/fuel line assy slightly towards the firewall. This allowed the lift pump to come pretty much straight up and out of the valley. It really went pretty smooth. I used a little light grease to hold the banjo bolt washers in place until I could get the banjo bolt started back in.<o></o>
for what its worth, Im now running no pulse dampener and it runs the same. Without the dampener it is much easier to get to the banjo bolt also.<o></o>
good luck.
I have this information that can be useful for you and cali truck owners.
Buy a 1/2 " drive, impact socket 1-1/4" and tack welded it to a piece of 1-1/4" black pipe, put it in a mateal band saw and cut off the socket leaving only enough to grab the banjo bolt, then ground the tack welds off and ended up with a socket short enough to reach in and unscrew the banjo bolt. Using a 3/8 drive swivel head ratchet and a 3/8 to 1/2" drive adaptor, I managed to break the banjo bolt loose,and finally get it out. I loosened the fuel filter canister and slid it towards the fan, replaced all the fuel lines with Ford factory lines,and new crush washers on the banjo bolt, cleaned the screen on the FPR while I was there. To re-assemble I used a plastic tip off a silicone tube, (new here not used) shoved that into one of the holes of the banjo bolt and then a screwdriver into the tip of the tube,(sounds wierd but it worked) shoving the banjo bolt into the fuel line assembly and the pump. Best part of all the truck fired right up with no leaks. Hope this info will help someone on their fuel pump replacement.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>The fuel dampner was not removed separately, I had loosened the fuel lines at the fuel galleys at the rear of the heads and slid the dampner/fuel line assy slightly towards the firewall. This allowed the lift pump to come pretty much straight up and out of the valley. It really went pretty smooth. I used a little light grease to hold the banjo bolt washers in place until I could get the banjo bolt started back in.<o
></o>for what its worth, Im now running no pulse dampener and it runs the same. Without the dampener it is much easier to get to the banjo bolt also.<o
></o>good luck.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 519
Likes: 0
From: Montague, MI.
I was looking at the parts list with no pictures. It says that the dampener gasket on Cali models goes between the dampener and the Banjo fitting. Could you unscrew the dampener with a chain wrench?
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
You da man 72! I am going to try that 1st (unscrew the dampner and plug it), I hope a half inch of clearance is enough.
I was looking at the turbo, is it just 4 bolts in the back and the DP and 3 pedistool bolts? or is there a 4th I can't see?
I am sorry for asking all these questions I just want to be fully armed and have all the intel I can get for this next mission.
Thanks!
I was looking at the turbo, is it just 4 bolts in the back and the DP and 3 pedistool bolts? or is there a 4th I can't see?
I am sorry for asking all these questions I just want to be fully armed and have all the intel I can get for this next mission.
Thanks!
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 519
Likes: 0
From: Montague, MI.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 3
From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
4 pedestal bolts, 2 exhuast coolector bolts, 2 exhuast collector studs and the downpipe. Its easiest to get to a few of the bolts with the ebp valve assembly off. there are 3 5/16 12 point bolts that hold that on. Let me see if I can find the thread where I saw the guys get the dampner off with. I will get back to you soon!
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 3
From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
here is some reading for you. read the link in the threads also.
Cat=0&Number=3354137&an=0&page=1#Post3354137
http://Cat=0&Board=9497upgrades1&Num...ue#Post3354186
That should help you. If you want to contact any of the posters for you let me know and I can ask them all the questions you have.
Cat=0&Number=3354137&an=0&page=1#Post3354137
http://Cat=0&Board=9497upgrades1&Num...ue#Post3354186
That should help you. If you want to contact any of the posters for you let me know and I can ask them all the questions you have.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
OK TJ! Thanks for the info. I will get try to spin the damnper off 1st, I don't have access to a welder this weekend so if the damnper won't come off I will do it the "the right way" and take off the turbo. I will check back with you later! I am tired of talking and ready to take actoin, come hell or high water I will get this job done today! Thanks again!
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
When it rains it pours! before I can start on my truck this morning I need to fix my girlfriends mirror on her car. It seems it came dislogded last night when she came home after dragging it down the side of my doors! If I were you all I would not get close to me, it seems I am jinxed!
Last edited by Copedawg; May 26, 2007 at 06:22 AM.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
Good news! I bareley smacked that sucker with a BFH and a srewdriver and it spun right off! Infact in came off so easily I am not sure if that is what may have been leaking.
The catch: (please be paitent with me) I don't see anything that resembles a "banjo" it looks like I have to take the fuel lines off the back of the heads and take out the bolts on the side of the pump and take the hose off the front of the pump and it will lift and pull forward to remove?
The catch: (please be paitent with me) I don't see anything that resembles a "banjo" it looks like I have to take the fuel lines off the back of the heads and take out the bolts on the side of the pump and take the hose off the front of the pump and it will lift and pull forward to remove?
Last edited by Copedawg; May 26, 2007 at 06:59 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 519
Likes: 0
From: Montague, MI.
The banjo fitting is the spot in the line that connects to the back of the pump. Basically the lines go to a circle that attaches to the back of the pump with a large bolt. Glad to hear you got that dampener off. Good luck with the rest of the job.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 3
From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
wreck it is right. the banjo fitting (don't know why they call it that!) is the large bolt head on the back of the pump. I thinks it like an 1 1/4. it big anyway. that bolt must come out then you can remove the fuel filter housing and then the two hold down bolts for the pump. Its much easier to take the filter housing out to get the new hoses back on the new pump.