I have had a total of 3 different CV axles put in my truck with no success.

The boot on the drivers side tore and was flingin grease. I had already planned on having the gears changed and with 140,000 miles on the truck I decided to go ahead and change both CV axles while the differential was out any ways.

The new CV axle on the passenger side works great. However we are having a hard time with the drivers side.

The first set of new CV axles from NAPA would bind and not turn.
The second set were remanufactured CV axles from carquest. Same deal, they would bind while rotating.
The third set was a remanufactured CV axle from carquest.
The last resort is to use a Ford OEM CV axle.

I dont understand why the passenger side is any different than the drivers side. Anybody else had this problem? I'm hoping the FORD OEM CV axle will work but don't think it will work any different than the other axles we've tried.

The truck has the torsion bars tightened and my dad thinks this might be the problem. However the CV works correctly on the passenger side, and the old CV axles worked correctly also.

Could this problem be caused by bad ball joints or some other steering component being bad? I have no clue and really want to figure it out.

 

does it bind due to beeing too long, or does it bind when turning due to too much angle? the CV joint should bed 45 degrees without binding and it moves about 1/3 of that while in the truck.... since you have several doing it, i might think something is not right on the hub-- a-frame area and making the axle shaft too tight end to end? when on the jack, can you push the axle toward the differential (with the hub nut off). it should have an inch clearance or so end to end.

 

It binds when ever weight is taken off drivers side. It will bind when I hit a speed bump, or when I make a sweeping left turn going 25mph or more.

The length of the shafts are correct. I'm thinking you are on to something about the hub. The shop did say that it seems like the end of the CV axle closest to the center of the truck hits the backing plate.

What can go wrong with the hub to cause the CV axle to loose the inch clearance?

 

Driver side CV (this is the old CV with the torn boot)
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...05/axle002.jpg

Passenger side CV (this is the new CV)
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...05/axle004.jpg

 

with the new torsion keys you got additional lift. this effects your caster and camber. i would guess they had to loosen the top A-frame and push it in to get the correct numbers. i would not think that would use up all the 1 inch play, but have no onther good ideas. look at the tire alignment, is it tipped in slightly at the top of the wheel? (caster and camber o.k.) I would back off on the torsion screws and lower as much as possible for a test and see what changes. i have heard of new keys being set to the minimum point, how far up are yours cranked?

 

The upper control arm has been moved out, away from center using a camber kit. My truck has been lifted using the torsion keys for almost 8-10,000 miles. The truck aligns perfectly.

On another forum I guy said that a camber kit could be installed on the lower control arm as well. Thus moving the entire wheel out away from center. I've never heard of someone using a camber kit on the lower control arm. I don't believe this will give an 1" clearance, but it will give some extra room. What are your thoughts on this?

 

i am not aware of the bottom a-frame being able to be moved in relation to the truck frame. the upper has slotted holes for the adjustments. i thought th bottom was fixed in one position.

 

Ya I was thinking the bottom was fixed as well. I'm gonna look into and I'll post what I find.

 

Just found your post. My boots busted as well and I drove for a while slinging grease every where. Since I drove for so long like that, I decided to replace the shafts on both sides. I encountered the locking up problem also. I took the boot off the aftermarket shaft and found the problem. The stock shaft has a cage with 5-6 big ball bearings on the inner (differential) side, allowing it to spin freely. The aftermarket shaft has three shaft type bearings which tend to bind when pressure is applied. It acts like a socket swivel if you know what I mean. You would probably be fine if your truck was at stock ride height. Your either gonna have to buy some from Ford or you can thoroughly clean and rebuild yours. Sorry this is so late. Hope it still helps you or anyone else with this problem.

 

FordMan03 Thanks for your reply. You've eased my nerves. After waiting 2 weeks the Ford CV axle just came in and will be having it installed tomorrow. I'll post the out come when its installed. I was worried that after putting the FORD CV axle on I would have the same problem and then I really wouldn't know what to do. Sounds like its gonna work though.

I never had the opportunity to inspect the aftermarket axles and compare them to the factory one since a shop was doing the work.

 

It's really not that hard to do it yourself. It should take no more than 1-2 hours per side. I don't know how much the shop is charging you to do it but you could sure save you some money. Yeah the aftermarket half shafts are POC!! They claim to be OEM quality but there not even made the same. Hopefully yours works out for you.

 

I'm not having to pay to have the axles put in. I had my truck regeared and the shop that did the gears was supposed to change the axles while the front differential was out. They didn't and now they are paying the labor cost to have the axles put in at a different shop. I'm only out the cost of the axles and the gas to get there.

I've never paid to have any work done on my truck, but since I was having a shop regear it and the front differential was gonna be taken out anywase I didnt think it would that much more effort to put the new axles on. I'm glad now I didn't do it myself. I would've been so frustrated and out alot of time. I might have felt differently if I was paying the labor cost, but Im not.

I dropped the truck off this morning, so fingers crossed.

 

Good tip, thanks....3 ***** next to 5 wow what a diference!!!!


acm05 have you checked you cv axle angle yet, mine is running at 15 degrees
and I dont think i would want to go any more , my keys are relaxed on the adjustment blocks, each key kit is cut different I think mine shoulda been cut closer to stock at least 5 degrees, they was a bear installing... I spoke to several 4x4 shops and they said cv joints are made to run close to 38 degrees max without probs, if the boots will hold up, i say there nuts..!!!..I seen a new outlaw atv and they are well into 40 degrees..guess it depends on how there made...

 

Problem solved. The FORD CV axle doesn't bind and turns freely. I'm so relieved.

Not sure why an aftermarket CV axles works on the passenger side, but not on the drivers side.