It was working fine two days ago. Well it was barely working, the ignition would be really hard to push to start. Well yesterday I went out to start my truck and the ignition would go to the on position but would not move to the start. I am asking what could be the problem here. The lock cylinder?

If worse comes to worse I can install a switch for the starter. Right now it's sitting out in the driveway.


I swear, you spend hundreds of dollars on a dumb transmission and then the ignition fails.

 

It sounds like the "ignition acuator cam" broke. It is a cam within the steering column that is pushed when rotating the key. It is a PITA to replace. Steering wheel comes off, signal switch assy, Ignition cylinder, part of the column housing etc. If I can find it I will copy a great post that gives step by step instructions. I replaced mine but took a short cut. The part is available from Ford for $12.00 I cut enough off the end to permit installation without tearing everything apart. The drawback is. The part that is cut off is the section that locks the gear selector when the ignition is locked. Witout it you are able to select PRND while in the locked posistion.

Found it Copied from Jaz88

Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator

1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.

 

I think the problem is further down the steering column. I don't remember what the thing is called. But, the key pushes a lever down parallel to the steering column. The lever moves an electrical connector to make the various contacts. You can buy a new one from a parts store for pretty cheap. It's sort of a pain to get out. I removed the botls that hold the steering column up, and dropped the column down a bit.

I think that's what is going on with yours.

 

This has inspired me to install a toggle switch for the starter. Wow, I never thought I would say this. The RX-7 was 10x easier to work on. lol..