Ignition Switch?
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Ignition Switch?
It all began when my truck would start then stall...start then stall...and repeat. We checked the solenoid, the distributor, and the ignition module, everything was working properly. Some days it started normally then the next wouldn't stay running.
I eventually started messing with the key while in the ignition. That's when I figured it out...there's a bad contact in the ignition when the key is turned to engage the starter. I'm assuming this points to a bad ignition switch? But I wanted to check with anyone out there that may have some experience with this. Thanks.
I eventually started messing with the key while in the ignition. That's when I figured it out...there's a bad contact in the ignition when the key is turned to engage the starter. I'm assuming this points to a bad ignition switch? But I wanted to check with anyone out there that may have some experience with this. Thanks.
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Want to update this thread for anyone who may have similar issues.
I ended up replacing the ignition switch as well as the ignition lock cylinder and the problem was solved. Truck is back to normal. Figuring out how to disconnect the lock cylinder from the switch and then put it back together was the toughest part but all in all it was a fairly easy fix.
I ended up replacing the ignition switch as well as the ignition lock cylinder and the problem was solved. Truck is back to normal. Figuring out how to disconnect the lock cylinder from the switch and then put it back together was the toughest part but all in all it was a fairly easy fix.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Portland, OR
Wish I would have seen this sooner, it was the exact reason the 78 I bought last year wouldn't start (except briefly). Just to add a couple more things:
1. The reason the truck will "start" and then die is that there are two different timing circuits from the ignition module to the distributor. Timing is restarted on start to make it easier to crank the engine.
2. You can "hot wire" (like I did) if you find yourself in a jam without a new switch (I did it because I didn't figure out it was the switch at that point and needed to get it home). It will slowly drain the battery but you basically just run a wire from the batter and jumper it to the "run" wire to the ignition module (I think it's red, can't remember).
3. Plenty of YouTube videos on how to change the switch from the cylinder but I have to admit, still a bit challenging.
BB
1. The reason the truck will "start" and then die is that there are two different timing circuits from the ignition module to the distributor. Timing is restarted on start to make it easier to crank the engine.
2. You can "hot wire" (like I did) if you find yourself in a jam without a new switch (I did it because I didn't figure out it was the switch at that point and needed to get it home). It will slowly drain the battery but you basically just run a wire from the batter and jumper it to the "run" wire to the ignition module (I think it's red, can't remember).
3. Plenty of YouTube videos on how to change the switch from the cylinder but I have to admit, still a bit challenging.
BB
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It's good to know how to hot wire the ride if you find yourself in a bind. Thanks for the info. I will keep it in mind.
The only downfall of getting a new lock cylinder are the new keys that obviously won't unlock the doors. I have to keep the old key on the chain as well.
The only downfall of getting a new lock cylinder are the new keys that obviously won't unlock the doors. I have to keep the old key on the chain as well.
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From: mid-MO
It's good to know how to hot wire the ride if you find yourself in a bind. Thanks for the info. I will keep it in mind. The only downfall of getting a new lock cylinder are the new keys that obviously won't unlock the doors. I have to keep the old key on the chain as well.
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