I may have lucked out on this one. The broken stud is the upper rear passenger side and seems to be flush with the manifold surface and it's causing a pretty good exhaust tick. I'm standing in Ford's Ohio Assembly plant infront of an '07 5.4L scheduled for an E-series van, I see that the lift hook uses a pair of 2-bolt mounts, one on the front left on the head and one right rear on the head as well. I'm thinking as a temporay fix until I can afford to risk taking both manifolds off and replacing properly with ceramic shortie headers, that I might be able to bridge between the lift bolt hole and the broken manifold bolt which is top rear passenger side. The center to center distance from the lift boss to the manifold seems to be about 1" or so without actually measuring. If I put a bolt through a piece of flat steel in the lift hole so that it overlaps the manifold bolt hole, would it likely clamp the manifold to the head in place of the broken stud hold? It won't fix the problem, but atleast I can schedule my time and fix it correctly on my terms. I'm also away from my own truck to look to see if it has those holes and whether they were used for something else during the truck's buildup. Anyone have a chance to look on their 2001 5.4L?

 

I was able to make a quick fix for the broken STUDS, 2. Both of the pass rear studs had been sheared off flush with the manifold flange. The steel bar pushes the flange against the head and is about 75% quieter than before. Still gets loud under hard acceleration but I can plan the fix and still drive it. The lift hook boss was empty and worked great for this. It's a 14mm bolt, same size and thread as a wheel stud.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...151632&width=0

 

I'm going to keep that idea in mind. In the mean time, does anyone know the size of the nut on the exhaust stud? Mine are quite rusty, to say the least, so if I knew the correct size it would be easier for when I remove the manifold.

Thanks

 

Someone else said to search the V10 forum for "mainfold". I think I saw a post with the stud sizes listed for the stainless hardware. The overall consensus was that the manifolds have cracked and should be replaced while you're that far into it. Seems most people felt that a good, ceramic coated, shortie header and stainless hardware was the way to go if you had the money for it.

 

Im doing this job on mine right now. 01 f250 4x4 5.4L. Lets just say its not fun. Both rear studs on passenger side broke, causing an exhaust leak. I got the top three remaining studs out, by welding a nut onto the stud and rusty nut that is still there. Those came right out without breaking the stud. Now Im trying to get the lower three remaining studs. I had to take the shock mount off the frame, and unbolt the passenger side engine mount and jack the motor up a few inches. I quit for the day. Im not sure how Im going to get the lower ones out yet. Its real tight, not sure If I can get the welder in there or not.

 

Got the lower three out the same way, welding on a nut. A couple I welded on a bolt, which made it easier to get with a socket.
Once I got the manifold off, found the two broken studs on the last port, one was sticking out of the head. Got that one out the same way. The other was broken off inside the head. By checking the other studs I had removed, I found that the studs do not bottom out in the hole. I drilled into the broken stud all the way through. Then I soaked it in PB Blaster for about 15 minutes, spaying up into the hole so it would run hopefully into the threads. Amazingly I was able to get the bolt out with and Easy-Out. None of the threads on the cylinder head are damaged, so I feel real lucky. This was definately one of the most frustrating jobs I have ever done on a vehicle.

 

I got a quote of about $700 to let Midas remove the studs on both heads and reinstall my headers and hardware. I'm not sure I'm willing to let someone else work on it though. Thanks for the play-by-play. I'll probably approach mine the same way.

BTW, the wife and I just got back from a Detroit to Montauk Pt on Long Island NY and back camping trip with that fix on the rear port. No problems with the exhaust.