Tranny problem E40D
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,908
Likes: 2
From: West Mansfield, Ohio
We need to start checking sensors. I'm beginning to wonder if the Throttle Position Sensor is out, but you guys said nothing about a check engine light or the truck running funny.
The reason I am thinking this is because the transmission uses throttle position to determine line pressure. For instance, if the throttle is at half throttle (approximately 3 volts coming from the TPS,) it will make the line pressure higher than it would at 1/8 throttle or even 1/4 throttle. If you let off the gas and for some reason the TPS goes to 0, the PCM will not know what to tell the transmission, other than to not apply any pressure at all.
I guess I need to know how "hard" it is banging back into gear. I also need to know if you have a check engine light on, and if your light even works at all. I'm not sure how mechanically inclined you are DJ, but if you go to www.fordfuelinjection.com it will tell you how to pull your codes. You said you had vaccuum lines disconnected somewhere, so I'm almost willing to bet your light is on.
One more question. What RPM do you get it to before it "bangs" into gear again?
The reason I am thinking this is because the transmission uses throttle position to determine line pressure. For instance, if the throttle is at half throttle (approximately 3 volts coming from the TPS,) it will make the line pressure higher than it would at 1/8 throttle or even 1/4 throttle. If you let off the gas and for some reason the TPS goes to 0, the PCM will not know what to tell the transmission, other than to not apply any pressure at all.
I guess I need to know how "hard" it is banging back into gear. I also need to know if you have a check engine light on, and if your light even works at all. I'm not sure how mechanically inclined you are DJ, but if you go to www.fordfuelinjection.com it will tell you how to pull your codes. You said you had vaccuum lines disconnected somewhere, so I'm almost willing to bet your light is on.
One more question. What RPM do you get it to before it "bangs" into gear again?
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Posting Guru
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no chek engine light.. and i only get code 33 and 44 and TPS has been changed a few months ago becuase it was idling at 1500 RPM.. and it mostly do this in 3rd gear at 1000 to 1200 RPM.. somethimes it only jerks somethimes it bangs HARD.. and all of this happens when the truck gets at its normal temp.. not when cold.. when the ttruck is WARM it missfires and the tranny does this
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: West Mansfield, Ohio
I'm beginning to wonder if this is more of a mechanical problem than an electrical problem. The only other thing I can think of electronically is the MLPS sensor mounted over the shift rod, on the side of the transmission. If it's telling the PCM that it's in Nuetral when it's really in Drive, it would cause the PCM to decrease line pressure, but once it realized it was in drive, it would increase pressure quickly, causing a bang. But I can't seem to figure out why it would be related to speed and throttle position.
I'm beginning to wonder if the fluid is so thin, or if the pump is worn out to the point to where it cant hold pressure at lower RPM's, then is able to once things start turning faster again. Especially since you said it does this when it's warm. But then again, I can't see it doing it "all of a sudden," but I could see it gradually getting worse as it warmed up. Is that what it's doing?
I'm beginning to wonder if the fluid is so thin, or if the pump is worn out to the point to where it cant hold pressure at lower RPM's, then is able to once things start turning faster again. Especially since you said it does this when it's warm. But then again, I can't see it doing it "all of a sudden," but I could see it gradually getting worse as it warmed up. Is that what it's doing?
New User
Joined: Aug 2007
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Sounds like the tranny is going into "safe" mode, my truck has a bad Clockspring (casette) and I think this is what couses my truck to do the same thing once in ahwile, it shifts slow, and slams back into gear after you let off the gas and get back on it, I turn the truck off, then back on and then it is fine, clocksprings are a commen problem with this body style and replacing mine is on the to-do list.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Originally Posted by Andy94351
Sounds like the tranny is going into "safe" mode, my truck has a bad Clockspring (casette) and I think this is what couses my truck to do the same thing once in ahwile, it shifts slow, and slams back into gear after you let off the gas and get back on it, I turn the truck off, then back on and then it is fine, clocksprings are a commen problem with this body style and replacing mine is on the to-do list.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 3
From: Joliet, Illinois
WOAH!
There is something you should check first off!
Turn the truck off but the key to accessory position and put the truck shifter into the NEUTRAL POSITION by COUNTING THE DETENT "CLICKS" (1 click as you go from "P" to "R", and one click as you go from "R" to "N") then get under the truck and look at the selector lever SENSOR on the drivers side of the transmission.
There is a line (or groove) in the plactic sensor housing, and a matching one in the part that rotates with the lever.
In neutral, (only neutral) both lines (or grooves) should line up perfectly.
If the bolts were, or came loose and the sensor shifted position, you might not get a code, but the computer will think the valve body is in a different position than it is in, causing all kinds of shifting problems that might not show up with a n electronic code!
There is something you should check first off!
Turn the truck off but the key to accessory position and put the truck shifter into the NEUTRAL POSITION by COUNTING THE DETENT "CLICKS" (1 click as you go from "P" to "R", and one click as you go from "R" to "N") then get under the truck and look at the selector lever SENSOR on the drivers side of the transmission.
There is a line (or groove) in the plactic sensor housing, and a matching one in the part that rotates with the lever.
In neutral, (only neutral) both lines (or grooves) should line up perfectly.
If the bolts were, or came loose and the sensor shifted position, you might not get a code, but the computer will think the valve body is in a different position than it is in, causing all kinds of shifting problems that might not show up with a n electronic code!
Last edited by archangel; Aug 3, 2007 at 12:21 PM.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,242
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From: Joliet, Illinois
Originally Posted by DJdemon6696
ok .. i will chek that 2morrow.. where exaclty is the sensor? any pics? or something? thanks allot
There is only one thing over there, on that (drivers) side of the transmission, with wires and a lever mounted to a shaft going into it.
Here it is again.
Originally Posted by archangel
Turn the truck off but the key to accessory position and put the truck shifter into the NEUTRAL POSITION by COUNTING THE DETENT "CLICKS" (1 click as you go from "P" to "R", and one click as you go from "R" to "N") then get under the truck and look at the selector lever SENSOR on the drivers side of the transmission.
There is a line (or groove) in the plactic sensor housing, and a matching one in the part that rotates with the lever.
In neutral, (only neutral) both lines (or grooves) should line up perfectly.
If the bolts were, or came loose and the sensor shifted position, you might not get a code, but the computer will think the valve body is in a different position than it is in, causing all kinds of shifting problems that might not show up with a n electronic code!
There is a line (or groove) in the plactic sensor housing, and a matching one in the part that rotates with the lever.
In neutral, (only neutral) both lines (or grooves) should line up perfectly.
If the bolts were, or came loose and the sensor shifted position, you might not get a code, but the computer will think the valve body is in a different position than it is in, causing all kinds of shifting problems that might not show up with a n electronic code!
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,908
Likes: 2
From: West Mansfield, Ohio
Ok so it was in nuetral, but the two lines weren't lining up? What you need to do now is while it's in nuetral, loosen the two 8mm headed bolts on the sides of the sensor, and rotate it which ever direction to match the lines up. Don't twist on it too hard if it's stuck because they will break. Chances are if it has moved, it is already loose. Once you get the lines matched up, tighten it back down and go give her a run.
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ok did it the best i could.. and guess what.. same old stuff.. but NOW! it has a delay when i ut it into gear.. i put it in to D and somethimes it goes in 1 second 2day it did it in 3 seconds
and i just cheked the fluid level.. and its good
and i just cheked the fluid level.. and its good
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Posting Guru
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[QUOTE=
I'm beginning to wonder if the fluid is so thin, or if the pump is worn out to the point to where it cant hold pressure at lower RPM's, then is able to once things start turning faster again. Especially since you said it does this when it's warm. But then again, I can't see it doing it "all of a sudden," but I could see it gradually getting worse as it warmed up. Is that what it's doing?[/QUOTE]
hey guys im back again with more bad news... chek this post out
if its doing this then isnt it the pump as he said? becuase to my knolege i know the pump makes shure it engages into Gear right?
chek this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ml#post5074942
I'm beginning to wonder if the fluid is so thin, or if the pump is worn out to the point to where it cant hold pressure at lower RPM's, then is able to once things start turning faster again. Especially since you said it does this when it's warm. But then again, I can't see it doing it "all of a sudden," but I could see it gradually getting worse as it warmed up. Is that what it's doing?[/QUOTE]
hey guys im back again with more bad news... chek this post out
if its doing this then isnt it the pump as he said? becuase to my knolege i know the pump makes shure it engages into Gear right?
chek this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ml#post5074942
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,731
Likes: 2,658
From: SE Florida
I don't know what you mean about the pump making sure it engages into gear. All the pump does is create pressure. The valve body sends the pressure where it needs to go to engage the right gear at the right time.
You can check the pump pressure by installing a 300 psi gauge in the test port on the driver's side of the trans. The Ford manual has a list that shows the required pressures. I don't have one to share with you.
You can check the pump pressure by installing a 300 psi gauge in the test port on the driver's side of the trans. The Ford manual has a list that shows the required pressures. I don't have one to share with you.