Major Engine Mods?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 356
Likes: 2
From: Dinwiddie, Virginia
Hey guys, I have done nothing new about the truck yet, but I just had another mud bog and thought I would let you know.
I have got 2nd place for the last seven bogs and I finnally got something different, but it was 3rd out of 14. But I am excited about it! I topped my best time and beat the person that I normally finnished 2nd to, so it's a good thing! 1st and 2nd were new trucks from out of town and the drivers have their own state inspection shops, HA, HA?
Got my first damage if you call it that. The truck landed on the front corner and put the cab under enough torque to pop the windshield! It already had a hit on the top right from a tree limb and a rock star on the bottom left and now they are one crack. That just goes to show the windshield IS a structural part of the cab that gives strentgh. It sounded like a gun shot in the cab when it happened and I thought it was the front axle or engine but I still new lefted off the gas.
Here are the top four times to show how close it was:
1st = 7.245
2nd = 7.296
3rd = 7.344 me
4th = 7.820 person that normally beats me
I got pictures. I will have to learn how to make my gallery?
I have got 2nd place for the last seven bogs and I finnally got something different, but it was 3rd out of 14. But I am excited about it! I topped my best time and beat the person that I normally finnished 2nd to, so it's a good thing! 1st and 2nd were new trucks from out of town and the drivers have their own state inspection shops, HA, HA?
Got my first damage if you call it that. The truck landed on the front corner and put the cab under enough torque to pop the windshield! It already had a hit on the top right from a tree limb and a rock star on the bottom left and now they are one crack. That just goes to show the windshield IS a structural part of the cab that gives strentgh. It sounded like a gun shot in the cab when it happened and I thought it was the front axle or engine but I still new lefted off the gas.
Here are the top four times to show how close it was:
1st = 7.245
2nd = 7.296
3rd = 7.344 me
4th = 7.820 person that normally beats me
I got pictures. I will have to learn how to make my gallery?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, AB
Sorry for not replying, I lost track of this thread. If you are willing to do the converter also, absolutly go for a bigger cam. The stage 2 is a "hot street" profile and not a street/strip. Also it will run more conservative on the larger 5.4 than the 4.6. I dont think it is getting carried away. To test an approx of your stall speed, put the truck in gear and stand on the breaks hard, slowly bring the RPM up, the point that it stops climbing is your stall speed (or the most your brakes will hold, do it in 4x4Hi). A higher stall speed will allow the rpm to go higher before the tires break loose. The advantage is say if you have a 2500 stall the engine doesnt need to make any power below that RPM because the converter is letting you skip that range. Trust me this helps alot, all the drag racers running automatics do it and thier stall speeds are way up there in the 3000-5000rpm range (but thats high end stuff). With the stage 2 you probably dont even need to upgrade, do the swap first and see if you think its unsatisfactory, if you want a faster ride do it anyway.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 356
Likes: 2
From: Dinwiddie, Virginia
Duffman,
I did what you said to test the stall speed and I was surprised. It clearly want up to 2000 rpm before it tried to stall and with more pedal I could get it to 2800 rpm before it realy tried to move with full breaks on. Could that be right with a stock converter? Do the Superchip programmers that allow you to adjust the trans shift points could that help this converter? I got a trans shop pro to adjust the trans for me with the Superchip and man did it do the trick.
Anyway it looks like a Stage 2 should work OK without screwing up the streetability too bad! Is that what this simple driveway test just told us?
I did what you said to test the stall speed and I was surprised. It clearly want up to 2000 rpm before it tried to stall and with more pedal I could get it to 2800 rpm before it realy tried to move with full breaks on. Could that be right with a stock converter? Do the Superchip programmers that allow you to adjust the trans shift points could that help this converter? I got a trans shop pro to adjust the trans for me with the Superchip and man did it do the trick.
Anyway it looks like a Stage 2 should work OK without screwing up the streetability too bad! Is that what this simple driveway test just told us?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
N0 2800 is very high for a stock converter. I would guess that stock should be somewhere around 1800-2400. The tuner can't change the pump in the converter. The pressure increase might make a slight difference.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 356
Likes: 2
From: Dinwiddie, Virginia
ReAX yours is like mine have you tried this with your truck? I didn't think the programmer could change the converter. What do you think, should I try the Stage 2? It says it will work from 1250 to 6000 rpm.
I am trying to make my first gallery now. check back in a few hours and see my pics.
I am trying to make my first gallery now. check back in a few hours and see my pics.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
My truck is too pretty and too expensive to put it in harms way. I do like to do a little 0-60 on the street, but my 4 wheel drive is just to keep me from spining mud up as much as possible.
I take it your talking about stage 2 heads? Reguardless, stages mean nothing. It's just nomenclature used to charge more money and tell you about some of the stuff they use. Look at the flow numbers and cams used to get them. More air is always better, but it usually is made at higher velocities (meaning higher RPMs.) 1250 isn't bad, but consider the cams/lift used.
I take it your talking about stage 2 heads? Reguardless, stages mean nothing. It's just nomenclature used to charge more money and tell you about some of the stuff they use. Look at the flow numbers and cams used to get them. More air is always better, but it usually is made at higher velocities (meaning higher RPMs.) 1250 isn't bad, but consider the cams/lift used.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
I am not going to bother with heads until there is an aftermarket casting available. I am thinking about cams though, someone here mentioned same durations with more lift and it has my wheels spinning.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 356
Likes: 2
From: Dinwiddie, Virginia
ReAX, I am talking about the Stage 2 Crower Cam and springs that duffman was talking about a few post above. I will most likely be adding that before the summer is done, but I am trying to fiqure out if it is too extreme and might mess up my streetability. I think it will be OK? Man I hate spending money on experiments but I am willing to try it.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, AB
I agree with Reax, 2800 seems high for a stock converter (2000ish seems right to me), but then again I have never driven a 5.4L before. The stall speed is built into the design of the converter... Although a torqier engine will have a higher stall speed with the same converter. IE a 5.4 will stall higher than a 4.6L all else equal. Based on what you are telling me you should have no trouble with the stage 2.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
I would find out exactly what the stock converter is ans maybe go up to 2-300 above.
You have to be carefull. You don't want to rev it up to 2 grand to go any where your street driving will be crap. Call a converter shop..I'm thinking the stall speed is close to where it grabs. You know when you put it in gear and the truck moves forward thats what you will lose. Instead of push and go it will be rev and go..Been there done that took it out...
Dick
You have to be carefull. You don't want to rev it up to 2 grand to go any where your street driving will be crap. Call a converter shop..I'm thinking the stall speed is close to where it grabs. You know when you put it in gear and the truck moves forward thats what you will lose. Instead of push and go it will be rev and go..Been there done that took it out...
Dick
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
I have another Idea!
I sell these drive shafts at work, http://www.dynotechengineering.com/ in the metal matrix composite. The stock DS I deal with weighs in at 33 pounds, thier replacement MMC DS weights 16.5lbs with dana/spicer unjoints and yokes. I have to do a little research to figure out what I want in a shaft, but cutting the rotational weight of the DS should net some improvement.
I sell these drive shafts at work, http://www.dynotechengineering.com/ in the metal matrix composite. The stock DS I deal with weighs in at 33 pounds, thier replacement MMC DS weights 16.5lbs with dana/spicer unjoints and yokes. I have to do a little research to figure out what I want in a shaft, but cutting the rotational weight of the DS should net some improvement.
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