gt250
Can't do a stroker within the rules of the class I run in but thanks for the interest.

Hey, ReAX you still out there. I checked on your mods ( cool list ) and you sound to be in the same boat as me. Any luck on the underdrive pulleys and e-fans yet? Did you catch my comment on the intake manifold have you considered that yet, it might be your limiting factor now?

 

What is the class you run in?

 

I am trying not to get out of the Street Stock class. If I make a change that sends me to the Super Stock class I will be out classed without big $. See www.nationalmudbogassociation.com for the detail if you are interested.

 

Soilman, I'm by no means a racing or engine expert, but your line of "people love to see THEIR truck in the show. I kick A.." has me wanting to help.

Have you considered weight reductions? I took a look at the rules of your class and there is no mention of removing stock accessories such as the Air Conditioning system (compressor, condensor, etc.), rear seats (not sure if yours was reg cab or not from the sig). May not help much individually, but these things add up and every bit counts. Just a thought.

Also, it looks like the rules of your class would disallow the DOHC engine as it was never stock to the SD, but perhaps the modern 3 valve 5.4 would work.

 

Thanks for the support biervergnugen!

I have considered weight reduction and already removed some things. My hold up on removing more is that this bogging is a weekend hobby for this truck right now. When I down grade my new truck to fun duty I might do more to this 2001. Me and the familly still use the truck a lot and can't remove much more without making it a burden to them. But I can't remove much more and keep my state inspection sticker that VA requires. The things you mentioned are about it, the truck is an extra cab.

Between the class rules or the fact that I must keep street legal for VA prevent me from removing door panels, dash board or guages, bumpers, sheet metal, front seats, glass, mirrors, under carriage parts, front grill and lights, engine parts, etc., etc., etc.

I can remove the CB radios, in-dash FM/CD radio, head liner, floor carpets, AC, back jump seat and thats about all I can think of right now. I estimate about 300 lbs. Its not worth it for the kids that want to ride around the farm or go hunting (but it is to me).

Man you had to go consider that about the DOHC didn't you. I was worried about that interpretation myself if I decided to go that route. You are right the 3V might have a better chance of getting through tech inspection. I could try the DOHC and see what happens, but I hope not to blow the existing engine up for a long while still. However, the leaner I keep pushing it and the more I keep it above 5000+rpm it is going to go. I just hope it goes in grand fashion if it does.

 

Why not ask the tech inspectors next time if a DOHC is allowed?

 

if you dont already have front and rear lockers that is a big + for the mud

 

krewat
I most likely will ask the tech guys Saturday about the DOHC but it needs to be handled carefully. Some of them will go tell the other drivers what I am going to do. Some would just say NO because they don't know what I'm even talking about. Some would not have ever looked because they don't know what it even means until me asking about it introduced them to the possible problem. No, these are not dumbys, but I am a one of a kind and most of these guys don't know the details of a 2001 and newer SD. They work with carbs, plug wires, pre-cat exhaust. Hell, there is my 2001 SD and the next youngest truck is more than 15 years older. But, going into a DOHC and not passing spec on the morning of the show is a very expensive way to find out they don't like.

DM-03,
I have run lockers before in my older 77 & 79 F150s years ago and I developed mixed felling about them. I don't do rock climbing. They are not streetable if you want them to last. If they are not going to break, then they cause other parts to break. When I get air in the hole if I am at full trottle with the r's at the max when you land metals going to fly out of them. God help the axle if I hit the side wall of the hole. But this was with 500+ HP 460's turning D44s w/ 44" Hawgs and I know that ain't the same as this SD, that is why I am using it so my stuff don't break. I have one solid LS in this truck right now. I read a thread were people said how weak these new Ford LS were, well I have NEVER seen only one of my back tires turn by itself. BUT WAIT, lockers kick butt when they stay together. I DO have adding selectable air lockers front and back on my wish list so I can unlock them on the street and keep the road damage to a minimum. When its go time, point truck in right direction, push buttons, lock her down, floor it. It can't hurt my times. But with the results I am getting out of this open front and LS rear I can't justify spending money on the lockers until I finish my torgue upgrades. I have video of most of my runs and I ain't seen but all four pulling so far. I am lossing the race at the starting line trying to get that big *** SD r'd up and moving forward. Need more torque! How do I get it?

Note: What we do when we are young and dumb still amaze me. 18 years old + Big Block 460 + 500HP + heavy foot + lockers + 44" Hawgs = poor DANA 44 never had a chance!! But man it was fun!!

 

I'm one of those people

If you have enough torque into the unit, it's locked up as solid as anything.

 

I haven't found a fan controller that uses the stock temp sensor anc controls two fans independantly. Spall makes the best i have seen so far, but I would need two to do it the way I want.

Underdrive pullies slow down the powersteering pump. The 315's are enough of a strain with out reducing the pressure. So I am not even considering it.

Profession Products is researching adapter plates to put a mustang style plenum on a 5.4l motor. I am not sure if mustang plenums are going to be that much bigger than stock truck plenums. That's the only option I have found so far sence most everything is 4.6L based and the 4.6L is different enough that port matching may not be possible.

 

ReAX,
I checked out Professional Products looks promising. Have you found www.sullivanperformance.com they got some cool stuff if you are going in the block.

I am getting pissed. All the next level mod stuff I am finding is for 4.6L or F150. Even if it would fit my SD it is all designed for drag racing high end rpm HP gains for the darn Stang's. I can't believe there is not a market for serious low end torque gains. Its should be enough SD's around to get some attention or are you and me that odd? Still looking for torque cams and intake manifold, giving up on heads. I have to assume what I heard is correct. Unless you are willing to change to 3V, that is opening a whole new can of worms, the stock PI 2V heads are as good you would ever need with at most just getting them ported yourself.

E-fans. Did you see Perma-Cool #771-19511, is this the one? Opinion?

Nice point about the steering pump and pulleys. But, I fell the pump is plenty strong now and might could stand a little hit, maybe? Is that just a self concern or have you heard of real problems from somewhere? Still can't find a usable set anyway.

Camperdaddy,
I don't have real rpm failure numbers for each stock part (which would be interesting if someone can find them) but I am being told that without a supercharger or NOS we don't need to worry about the bottom half flying apart. The valves would be the biggest concern so I would be upgrading them with the cam I chose.

Self experience, with the stock top and bottom I got now I zing it real good real often. Dash maxs out at 6 grand and needle stops when I get a little air, rev limiter adjusted to 7 grand and I have heard it get hit too many times to count. Man that sound makes my heart skip a beat but if you liften you lossin! Or so the saying goes.

Need more advise? Come on where are my engine guys.

 

SHM and VT are in my favorites list.

That permacool number is just the fans. I want to do an OE style fan system, with one activating with the a/c or temp and the secondary running at a lower temp.

My pump whines from time to time and I can't turn the wheel if I'm not moving. So for the 1-2hp the underdrive could give me isn't worth the driveability issues. Your best bet is to run an e-fan and an electric water pump. You will eliminate the drag of both the fan and water pump, which is the primary idea of under drive pullies. The alt and P/S are a minimal drag with out the water pump.

 

Thanks for the advise, hadn't considered the elec water pump yet.

I don't have that problem with my steering pump. Plenty strong. I guess all trucks are a little different.

 

Forget I can't change my water pump, its against the Street Stock Rules.

 

Then the easiest answer is a drag racers trick, remove the belt during races. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have an extra battery on hand, but as long as your engine runs cool and you don't have to do alot of low speed steering it will give you more power than under drive pullies.