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Got a warped rotor on the front L side....brakes are real good yet, so is the rotor thickness. Trying to decide if I should bother putting new rotors on or just run it the way it is.
Have you checked the runout with a dial indicator? Midas (free inspection) told me my '88 Barretta had warped rotors. I asked where his dial indicators were? They put it all back together. It's wierd cause my rotors must have warped back flat. I had 100,000 miles on the car the first time I replaced the brakes all around. I believe in my case it was the material layer in the pads.
Other things can cause your brakes to pulse if that is what made you think you have warped rotors.
For your question, if you change the rotors change the pads. Pads are about the cheapest part of the brake system. This way they will wear in with the new rotors.
If you changer rotors, you really should change pads. they have a layer on the pad that will prep the surface of the rotor for optimal braking(after the first 300 miles)
i'd check if you could have them spun first. they might fall within those specs. save you some $$
Whenever I work one here in mn i usually always put on new rotors. If you grind them down usually they cant disapate the heat as well and wind up warping again anyway, also by the time they are 1/2 way through the new pad they will start rust pitting and then you will have problems.
For those first timers get brake pads with the backing shims on them, and spray them with disc brake quiet, or i've heard RTV works as well. It absorbs the vibrations from the braking system eliminating any noises.
Warped brake rotors will accelerate the wear of your steering components as well. I'd replace it. Also if your LF side is worn down, and your RF side still has like 50% pad, you should make sure your calipers arent frozen and the slides move freely. Also make sure you re-grease your slides. I've seen some messed up brake wear with these things frozen.
What exactly is the reason you beleive they're warped? If it's feel, then get this. I read an engineering report recently that stated that 99% of reported 'warped' rotors weren't warped at all, but had deposits on the surface that made the friction uneven through the travel of the rotor through the pads giving a pulsing feel to the brake action. Cheap pads can cause this. Try sanding your rotors with 220 sandpaper and see what happens.
What exactly is the reason you beleive they're warped? If it's feel, then get this. I read an engineering report recently that stated that 99% of reported 'warped' rotors weren't warped at all, but had deposits on the surface that made the friction uneven through the travel of the rotor through the pads giving a pulsing feel to the brake action. Cheap pads can cause this. Try sanding your rotors with 220 sandpaper and see what happens.
Fred
I took the tire off, spun it by hand, and it would rotate nice untill one spot...that was hard to spin through. Both sides of the rotor look smooth & shiny, not rusted or having deposits.
Only reason I dug into this is because when it rains out that front L side always seems to lock up right away when appling "light" pressure to the breaks...no matter how light I push it will lock up & jerk the truck- but after 5 min. of driving or so, it will stop & they will break just fine.
-Also, when it's dry out, that front L side squeaks just enough to hear it while driving slowly...
-Figured it probably was from some ******* kid who balanced the tires at a local dealer...I have free lifetime balance & rotation, so I use them.
I took the tire off, spun it by hand, and it would rotate nice untill one spot...that was hard to spin through. Both sides of the rotor look smooth & shiny, not rusted or having deposits.
Only reason I dug into this is because when it rains out that front L side always seems to lock up right away when appling "light" pressure to the breaks...no matter how light I push it will lock up & jerk the truck- but after 5 min. of driving or so, it will stop & they will break just fine.
-Also, when it's dry out, that front L side squeaks just enough to hear it while driving slowly...
JDgreen
JD - I'm not as expert as the others, but I would expect that you have 4-wheel ABS and I think the front left should not lock up as you say....to me, the lock up does not sound correct. Turning the rotor could be the least costly approach to perform first and then see if you are pleased with the results. From there, consider replacing the rotor and pads and you would want to do both sides. If you can peform the task yourself, you're not talking a siginificant investment to get quality replacement parts.
Pat
What exactly is the reason you beleive they're warped? If it's feel, then get this. I read an engineering report recently that stated that 99% of reported 'warped' rotors weren't warped at all, but had deposits on the surface that made the friction uneven through the travel of the rotor through the pads giving a pulsing feel to the brake action. Cheap pads can cause this. Try sanding your rotors with 220 sandpaper and see what happens.
Fred
That is correct. The rotors do not warp, but they DO develop high spots from uneven deposits like you mentioned. And as you mentioned, if you catch it early you can try the sandpaper which will work. If it has gone for a bit (not too long though) you CAN get the rotor/drum turned and it will cure the problem. If it has gone on too long you won't be able to "cut" the deposit out of the rotor/drum as it has penetrated too deep into the rotor. The BEST way to avoid the problem is with a proper bedding/break-in according to the manufactures recommendations. It is also important not to use too aggressive of a pad for the type of driving you do or it will never be in the correct heat range.
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