Brake Light Trouble
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Brake Light Trouble
So this is how it begins. I have a boat trailer that needed new wiring and I rewired the whole trailer, in hopes of having better lights when I tow my boat with my 2001 Ranger 4x4 Off Road Package 4.0 liter. After plugging the plugs in to check the new lights I only have the right blinker and brake light. I checked the plug on my truck to find all the wires have continuity except for the running lights. All the wires are connected correctly on the trailer and work with another vehicle's plug, so this has to be in my truck somewhere. My tailights and blinkers on my truck work fine although the brake light on the top of the cab above the bed was burnt out.
To make a long story as short as possible, I've checked about all I know to check. Connections to plug and all fuses that would effect the operation of the trailer lights were checked. I don't know if you guys can help in this situation but I'm stumped and it's warming up and I want to get out and fish awfully bad.
To make a long story as short as possible, I've checked about all I know to check. Connections to plug and all fuses that would effect the operation of the trailer lights were checked. I don't know if you guys can help in this situation but I'm stumped and it's warming up and I want to get out and fish awfully bad.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Aurora
Although the continuities might check out ok, there might be a pin in your truck connector that isnt making contact. Like Rockledge suggested, try plugging another trailer up and see what happens. As for the pin for the running lights, turn on the truck lights and see if there's power to the pin. Weird things can happen with trailer wiring and I've spent my fair share of time banging my head against a wall. You've got some lights working so the ground must be good.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Maine
I went through something similar a few weeks ago, and if I had hair long enough to grab hold of, I'd have been pulling it out.
I had running lights, and right turn/stop. I had voltage to the left socket, and the bulb was good. But no light. Finally figured out that the converter box on the pigtail ('97's have separate, amber turn signals on the truck, the converter switches that signal plus the stop to one wire) that had gone bad, and I was getting a little bit less voltage to the left than right, and it was just low enough to light the lamp, while the other side lit fine.
I don't think an '01 has amber turns, so I doubt your problem is the same as mine was, but I'd bet it's somewhere in that plug where the trailer lights come off the the taillights...
I had running lights, and right turn/stop. I had voltage to the left socket, and the bulb was good. But no light. Finally figured out that the converter box on the pigtail ('97's have separate, amber turn signals on the truck, the converter switches that signal plus the stop to one wire) that had gone bad, and I was getting a little bit less voltage to the left than right, and it was just low enough to light the lamp, while the other side lit fine.
I don't think an '01 has amber turns, so I doubt your problem is the same as mine was, but I'd bet it's somewhere in that plug where the trailer lights come off the the taillights...
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Liberty, MO
When you say you checked for continuity, what exactly did you use? A hand held volt meter? A 12 volt test light? If you have either go through turning all lights on (running, turns, brakes) individually and check all the pins against the ground within the plug. If its the flat 4-pin connector then the brown is running, yellow is left turn/brake, and green is right turn/brake. If you're getting 12+ volts, then it SHOULD be working fine. Does the rate at which your turn signal blinks change while its plugged in? Are you sure its just not super dim on the left side?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 819
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From: Northern Maine
I have a 98 Ranger that was factory wired for a trailer. All I had to do was change the connector as the factory one was round and not compatible with a common trailer plug. The plug was zip tied up under the rear bumper. Also, make sure that you have a good ground. Poor grounds can really cause havoc with lighting systems. I had a 1964 (yes, I said 1964 and I know that I am dating myself) Ford Car one time that had a poor ground. When the left signal light was turned on, the right side worked. When the right side was turned on, it had 4 way flashers, which were not even invented yet. On top of all of that, the dome light would not go out. I corrected the entire problem by re-grounding the tail lights. Good luck.
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Posting Guru
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i agree with the grounds it seems every lighting issue i have ever had regarding trailers was a ground issue
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I have a good ground, brand new wire, and a brand new ground position. The old bolt and nut that held the ground wire to the trailer was completely rusted, so I changed the position. Thus, the ground on the trailer is good. The lights are self grounded through the trailer in the rear, so I marked that out. Its gotta be in my truck somewhere. When I get the time I'll take a look, I go to school all day 3 days outta the week and today was one of them. Thanks in advanced guys
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
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Does your truck have the factory installed trailer harness or is it add-on?
I worked on an explorer a couple weeks ago.. someone had tapped in a U-haul setup into the wiring connectors at the taillights. The U-haul module had a meltdown and fried fuses and wires and all that. I fixed it up, and removed the U-haul module.. and installed a "generic" harness adapter into the factory round connector (ended up having to cut and solder wires instead of just plugging it in due to corrosion build up at the factory connector... which laid dormant under the left rear of the bumper because the U-haul setup was being used instead).. and it worked like brand new.
Basically some of these already have a factory "tow wiring" module installed.. and there is no need to add-on an aftermarket setup.
I worked on an explorer a couple weeks ago.. someone had tapped in a U-haul setup into the wiring connectors at the taillights. The U-haul module had a meltdown and fried fuses and wires and all that. I fixed it up, and removed the U-haul module.. and installed a "generic" harness adapter into the factory round connector (ended up having to cut and solder wires instead of just plugging it in due to corrosion build up at the factory connector... which laid dormant under the left rear of the bumper because the U-haul setup was being used instead).. and it worked like brand new.
Basically some of these already have a factory "tow wiring" module installed.. and there is no need to add-on an aftermarket setup.
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