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Old May 2, 2007 | 02:59 PM
  #16  
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So if I take the clutch cycle switch out, the freon should stay put correct?
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by igotoneforya
Right, orfice tube-is that near the muffler belt?
You can find them in the same isle as the caneuter valves, flamshooter valves, and synthetic halogen headlight fluid.... Actually, there really is an orifice tube and its a screen designed to catch anything floating aorund the system from say a compressor that may be slowly going out. Im no A/C expert but thats about what i know about it. It is real.
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Sky
So if I take the clutch cycle switch out, the freon should stay put correct?
If there is a schrader valve behind it you may get a lil burst of pressure, or it may leak some while you unscrew it til the valve closes. Sounds like as it screws in it opens the valve so it can sense the pressure.
 
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Old May 3, 2007 | 07:41 AM
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Big Sky ... yes there is a schrader valve behind the switch. The orfice tube works just like an expansion valve it converts the high pressure low temp side of the condenser to a low pressure gas. It's located in the liquid line running on the passenger side of the truck. Follow the aluminum line from the condenser towards the evaporator they'll be a fitting that joins two pieces of line together it'll be in there.
 
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Old May 3, 2007 | 08:02 AM
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[QUOTE=igotoneforya]Right, orfice tube-is that near the muffler belt?
QUOTE]

Telling the shop you know what's wrong does 2 things:
  • Lets them fix exactly what you tell them
  • Gives them an excuse when it doesn't work, "we fixed what you told us"
Better to tell them a/c doesn't work correctly and let them tell you what's wrong. This way you can match theory.

But it could be the twiddle nut located next to the kiniblin pin.

Jim
 
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Old May 3, 2007 | 09:41 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 1
Actually, there really is an orifice tube and its a screen designed to catch anything floating aorund the system from say a compressor that may be slowly going out. Im no A/C expert but thats about what i know about it. It is real.
The orifice tube is designed to allow expansion of the coolant, not as a filter.

The fact that it catches any dirt/crud/particles floating around, was NOT a design feature, it's just a fact of life

If you change the pressure switch and the AC still doesn't work, try this: With the engine running and AC on, CAREFULLY tap the front of the AC clutch with a screwdriver, hammer handle, anything - BE CAREFUL not to get it caught in the belt.

If the compressor engages when you tap on the front of the clutch, the air gap on the clutch has to be adjusted down. Sometimes, the gap in the clutch is too high and it won't engage. Thing is, most AC places will replace the entire compressor instead of playing around. You can do it yourself. Remove the clutch and there's a shim under it to adjust the air-gap. A thinner shim will cure the problem. If it's the air gap.
 
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Old May 3, 2007 | 06:32 PM
  #22  
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Sorry I hijacked this thread sort of...

Is the 'tap on te AC clutch' a trick for me or big sky?

So basically, I should replace an expansion valve in both the front and rear of the X, one of them is the orfice tube and the other one is just a valve? Where is the rear one located? In the storage area on passenger side I'd guess.

Seriously, thanks for all the help with AC system, even if you make up the names for some parts...
 
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Old May 3, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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I would use gauges on the high side/low side and then jumper the 2 wire connector to the clutch to force engagement. Then read the gauges. The low should be 28-32 and the high from 240-300 given temp differences and pressure altitude. This would be the correct way. Given you might not have gauges, you could just put a jumper wire across the clutch wiring and start the engine to see if the clutch engages. If it does not you might have a clutch issue. If it does you are probably low on freon from a leak somewhere. Hope this helps. Jim
 
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Old May 31, 2007 | 06:33 PM
  #24  
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Well. I finally got around to replacing the pressure cycle switch and no luck. I also tried the tapping the clutch deal and nor luck there either. Shot some WD-40 in case it was stuck. I've checked the connections and everything looks good there. Could it be the control panel in the dash?
 
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Old May 31, 2007 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by vettdvr
I would use gauges on the high side/low side and then jumper the 2 wire connector to the clutch to force engagement. Then read the gauges. The low should be 28-32 and the high from 240-300 given temp differences and pressure altitude. This would be the correct way. Given you might not have gauges, you could just put a jumper wire across the clutch wiring and start the engine to see if the clutch engages. If it does not you might have a clutch issue. If it does you are probably low on freon from a leak somewhere. Hope this helps. Jim
What are the pressures. This will tell the tale!. Jim
 
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